Removal of PCV

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New Jersey
My Car
1973 Mustang Convertible (Mach I Tribute)
Before I pull the last hair out of my head as I now need to touch up the valve cover.

Is there any way to remove the PCV? I've tried pulling every which way and even tried to remove some of the gromet. I updated to a new air cleaner system and now want to add a breather cap.

IMAG0279.jpg

 
The Pressure Control Valve (PCV) should pull straight out of the grommet. Give the top a slight twist to break it loose from the rubber grommet - squirt a tiny bit of WD-40 onto the PCV itself, and let it work into the grommet if you need to. Don't twist too hard or fast, though - you don't want to snap off the plastic part and leave the rest stuck in the valve cover.

Do the same with the plastic part and the hose - be careful not to snap it off... those things can get brittle after awhile.

I'm guessing you have a new grommet seeing how chewed up that one is. I'd recommend using a new one when you put the new breather in.

Hope that helps!

 
The Pressure Control Valve (PCV) should pull straight out of the grommet. Give the top a slight twist to break it loose from the rubber grommet - squirt a tiny bit of WD-40 onto the PCV itself, and let it work into the grommet if you need to. Don't twist too hard or fast, though - you don't want to snap off the plastic part and leave the rest stuck in the valve cover.

Do the same with the plastic part and the hose - be careful not to snap it off... those things can get brittle after awhile.

I'm guessing you have a new grommet seeing how chewed up that one is. I'd recommend using a new one when you put the new breather in.

Hope that helps!
The PCV isn't stuck to the grommet as it does turn. I've been trying to pull it straight out but guessing the grommet is dry rotted and doesn't give.

 
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No one wants to hear about more work, but. Might be best to pull the valve cover so you can get a good look at what is going on from both sides and work at it from a bench. If the grommet is that hardened and you break it off you will need to pull anyhow. It would be a good time while it is off to clean it good and refinish. Since the new VCG's come in pairs might was well pull both to clean up and repaint.

I've seen those so stuck in place that I had to use a torch to melt/burn it out. After 43+ years of heat those things get to be like a rock.

Forgot we had the edit button back. Would have been a good place to use there.

* Edit: There - I fixed it for ya. ;) -- Eric

 
Ah. You might check to see if the plastic part of the PCV is spinning inside of the metal can part that's touching the grommet - rubber to metal connections tend to weld themselves together.

You might also try rocking it side-to-side, back-and-forth, etc. There's always the 'grab the top and give it the swirly job' technique as well. Again, be careful to not snap off the plastic if you can avoid it.

 
That appears to be the vent to supply fresh air for the positive crankcase ventilation system. The elbow

https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/mustang_elbow_valve_cover_and_oil_cap-105524-397.html

and grommet

https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/mustang_grommet_pcv_valve_c8sz_6a892_a-105598-397.html

are readily available. I've seen similar parts in the Help section of parts stores.

The PCV valve should be in the cover on the driver side.

You can read about the need for crankcase ventilation here:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankcase_ventilation_system

 
I was afraid that I might need to remove the valve cover.

Going to bring it to a friends shop tomorrow to see what he can do.

Will let you know.

Thanks for your advice.

 
as 73pony mentioned, your best off removing the valve cover.

the grommet is no longer soft and pliable.

there is possibly a lip on the bottom of the valve . if there is, the dried up grommet is preventing it from coming out . if so, just cut the grommet away on the inside of the cover to remove it . either way you will be able to see what is going on and push try to push it out from that side.

.

 
That appears to be the vent to supply fresh air for the positive crankcase ventilation system. The elbow

https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/mustang_elbow_valve_cover_and_oil_cap-105524-397.html

and grommet

https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/mustang_grommet_pcv_valve_c8sz_6a892_a-105598-397.html

are readily available. I've seen similar parts in the Help section of parts stores.

The PCV valve should be in the cover on the driver side.

You can read about the need for crankcase ventilation here:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankcase_ventilation_system
There is a twist in PCV cover on the drivers side, but that one which I'm leaving connects to the new intake manifold.

 
I tried this a while ago. Damn thing wouldn't give and I ended up cracking the grommet which led to taking off the cover, breaking the grommet in 100 pieces and putting in a new one plus a new elbow.

On the positive side I had a look under the cover and saw that it was very clean so that made it all good ;-)

 
That is not the PCV Positive Crankcase Ventilator That is the hookup for the clean air coming from the air cleaner. The PCV valve is on the drivers side in the center of the oil fill cap. The fitting you are trying to get out is just an elbow with no valve in it. The po of my car had put aftermarket air cleaner on with no clean air hook up so I put one of the filters that looks like a cap on mine. Some look like mini air cleaners. You need a PCV to vent the crankcase to prevent sludge build up. Moisture gets in the crankcase and no where to go. If you only drive short runs you will probably get sludge anyway.

 
The right side PCV will be staying.

Does the valve cover bolts need to be torqued when I put them back on as it looks like I'll be removing the valve cover tomorrow morning

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I found another thread here that showed the torque for 1973 and said 3-5 lbs for valve bolts. Guess a good snug fit should be ok.

Thanks

 
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Snug is a good word to use.

From the center outwards evenly.

I am a fan of cork gaskets and no sealer however I use studs and nuts

as apposed to bolts.

Over-tightening will lead to leaks so less is more.

It's only a valve cover and not a main cap let's not stress on this.

Paul

 
mpbsr, save yourself some time and grief and pull the valve cover. From personal experience I can assure you at this stage it not going to simply pull out. After 40+ years of engine heat, hot engine oil vapors, and just plain old age, it's done for. There is a beveled edge at the bottom of the grommet that made it fit very tightly to the valve cover, and another on the bottom of the elbow that made it near impossible to remove unless the grommet was almost new and soft. I've seen the brittle with heat elbows break and the rock hard grommets shatter almost like glass. If the bottom part of the grommet breaks and falls into the cylinder head then you chance some of the pieces getting into the oil drain back holes. If small enough they could even work their way down far enough to get caught in your oil pick up screen.

image.jpgs-l1000.jpg

 
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I'll be removing the valve cover tomorrow to remove the PVC from the inside of the cover and hope to replace it with no problems.
I would put some oil on it and inside the grommet first.

 
It's done.

Ended up pulling the valve cover off and looked inside and damn it. There was a plate inside the valve cover that was blocking the PCV. I'm guessing it was there to avoid oil blow back into the PCV tube.

Any way I ended up having to hacksaw the pvc on the outside of the valve cover and once off, needed a major push on the too to get it though. The old grommet was like a rock.

Played it smart for once and put the new grommet on first and pushed the new breather cap in while the valve cover was off as even that was hard to get on.

Thanks for everyone's help here.

 
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