Shock tower braces

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Joined
Jan 30, 2011
Messages
692
Reaction score
3
Location
Alabama
My Car
1973 H code Mach 1
Okay, Got shock tower braces cleaned blasted primed and painted( when i bought car it did not have them on it, bought a set used ) and before i unbolted the top of the shock tower's I just placed on to see how fit would be. Passenger side sits down perfect everything lines up fine.Drivers side is almost a 1/4 inch off and bolt hole's wont line up.I know there is a little give once undone.Been a long day didn't really feel like working on it and mind is elsewhere, just wanted to ask to be sure that a test fit like this would be right or not:shrug2:

 
Okay, Got shock tower braces cleaned blasted primed and painted( when i bought car it did not have them on it, bought a set used ) and before i unbolted the top of the shock tower's I just placed on to see how fit would be. Passenger side sits down perfect everything lines up fine.Drivers side is almost a 1/4 inch off and bolt hole's wont line up.I know there is a little give once undone.Been a long day didn't really feel like working on it and mind is elsewhere, just wanted to ask to be sure that a test fit like this would be right or not:shrug2:
May be ok or not..Is the 1/4" off foreward to back or width wise? Your shock tower may have sagged easy to fix..or it may have been hit in the front or side at some point in it's life...Plus it's not a good idea to drive the car for any lenght of time without the braces..The shock towers can & will move over time if these parts are not installed..The best way is to measure from a known good point to one of the shock tower bolts. You should not have to force it on at all..Let us know & I can get a measurment for you if needed.

 
Okay, Got shock tower braces cleaned blasted primed and painted( when i bought car it did not have them on it, bought a set used ) and before i unbolted the top of the shock tower's I just placed on to see how fit would be. Passenger side sits down perfect everything lines up fine.Drivers side is almost a 1/4 inch off and bolt hole's wont line up.I know there is a little give once undone.Been a long day didn't really feel like working on it and mind is elsewhere, just wanted to ask to be sure that a test fit like this would be right or not:shrug2:
May be ok or not..Is the 1/4" off foreward to back or width wise? Your shock tower may have sagged easy to fix..or it may have been hit in the front or side at some point in it's life...Plus it's not a good idea to drive the car for any lenght of time without the braces..The shock towers can & will move over time if these parts are not installed..The best way is to measure from a known good point to one of the shock tower bolts. You should not have to force it on at all..Let us know & I can get a measurment for you if needed.
Off forward to back, brace bolt hole's come past shock tower bolts with back in place,I was looking to see if i could see ant damage to frame or other parts ( aprons seem nice and straight and body panels line up great )But i did notice that with hood raised and looking down in front of radiator the front Valance is slightly closer to the radiator support than the passenger side,maybe an 1/8 inch closer. guess i am going to have to measure to be sure

 
Okay, Got shock tower braces cleaned blasted primed and painted( when i bought car it did not have them on it, bought a set used ) and before i unbolted the top of the shock tower's I just placed on to see how fit would be. Passenger side sits down perfect everything lines up fine.Drivers side is almost a 1/4 inch off and bolt hole's wont line up.I know there is a little give once undone.Been a long day didn't really feel like working on it and mind is elsewhere, just wanted to ask to be sure that a test fit like this would be right or not:shrug2:
May be ok or not..Is the 1/4" off foreward to back or width wise? Your shock tower may have sagged easy to fix..or it may have been hit in the front or side at some point in it's life...Plus it's not a good idea to drive the car for any lenght of time without the braces..The shock towers can & will move over time if these parts are not installed..The best way is to measure from a known good point to one of the shock tower bolts. You should not have to force it on at all..Let us know & I can get a measurment for you if needed.
Off forward to back, brace bolt hole's come past shock tower bolts with back in place,I was looking to see if i could see ant damage to frame or other parts ( aprons seem nice and straight and body panels line up great )But i did notice that with hood raised and looking down in front of radiator the front Valance is slightly closer to the radiator support than the passenger side,maybe an 1/8 inch closer. guess i am going to have to measure to be sure
Thunder...you have a small sag...Try this..install the pass side brace...put a jack under the car on the left side front rocker panel at the factory jacking point on the rocker lip (be carfeul not to bend the lip..I use a hockey puck but you can use a small block of wood between the jack & lip)

Slowly jack untill the lf wheel comes about an inch off the ground..See if the brace fits then..If it's close or getting better, jack some more till it fits..You may have to push down at the lf bumper corner a few times...Install the brace tight...remove jack..

 
May be ok or not..Is the 1/4" off foreward to back or width wise? Your shock tower may have sagged easy to fix..or it may have been hit in the front or side at some point in it's life...Plus it's not a good idea to drive the car for any lenght of time without the braces..The shock towers can & will move over time if these parts are not installed..The best way is to measure from a known good point to one of the shock tower bolts. You should not have to force it on at all..Let us know & I can get a measurment for you if needed.
Off forward to back, brace bolt hole's come past shock tower bolts with back in place,I was looking to see if i could see ant damage to frame or other parts ( aprons seem nice and straight and body panels line up great )But i did notice that with hood raised and looking down in front of radiator the front Valance is slightly closer to the radiator support than the passenger side,maybe an 1/8 inch closer. guess i am going to have to measure to be sure
Thunder...you have a small sag...Try this..install the pass side brace...put a jack under the car on the left side front rocker panel at the factory jacking point on the rocker lip (be carfeul not to bend the lip..I use a hockey puck but you can use a small block of wood between the jack & lip)

Slowly jack untill the lf wheel comes about an inch off the ground..See if the brace fits then..If it's close or getting better, jack some more till it fits..You may have to push down at the lf bumper corner a few times...Install the brace tight...remove jack..
+1 I might even suggest using a floor jack under the left sub frame towards the back of it.I bet you will be able to make it work with out much.

Good reason why you should keep the braces in place!

 
set floor jack under sub frame raised tire one inch off ground Bingo went right on :D now the hood is a little off rofl nothing a little adjustment shouldn't take care of i hope
:whistling: The Bill is in the mail..

 
Great, mine are missing...one more thing to purchase.
Well now you know how to fix it.. if they don't fit.. But don't jack from the "subframe" Jack as I instructed..That's why his hood alignment changed.. I'll let you guy's fiqure it out.::chili:: (these cars don't have a subframe they have a frame rail ..camaros have a subframe)

 
Had an off day from work so i took the brace back off the drivers side and put floor jack at left side front rocker panel at the factory jacking point on the rocker lip,had a friend raise it till brace would fit roughly an inch reinstalled brace, Hood still off a little bit, front corner of hood almost touching passenger fender

 
Had an off day from work so i took the brace back off the drivers side and put floor jack at left side front rocker panel at the factory jacking point on the rocker lip,had a friend raise it till brace would fit roughly an inch reinstalled brace, Hood still off a little bit, front corner of hood almost touching passenger fender
That's because you jacked it first at the frame rail instead of the rocker..So now you have no choice but to move the hood & or fender etc to get it aligned..That's why there's a factory jacking point on cars..& 98% of the time it's from the rocker lip (most have a small cut out for the factory jack to fit into)

 
Had an off day from work so i took the brace back off the drivers side and put floor jack at left side front rocker panel at the factory jacking point on the rocker lip,had a friend raise it till brace would fit roughly an inch reinstalled brace, Hood still off a little bit, front corner of hood almost touching passenger fender
That's because you jacked it first at the frame rail instead of the rocker..So now you have no choice but to move the hood & or fender etc to get it aligned..That's why there's a factory jacking point on cars..& 98% of the time it's from the rocker lip (most have a small cut out for the factory jack to fit into)
It's all good tho. front clip has to come off in the future anyway so i can replace one apron ( rf and battery tray )and will pull motor to do some major cleaning and sealing and painting.Just didn't want to drive without braces on :D

 
Great, mine are missing...one more thing to purchase.
Well now you know how to fix it.. if they don't fit.. But don't jack from the "subframe" Jack as I instructed..That's why his hood alignment changed.. I'll let you guy's fiqure it out.::chili:: (these cars don't have a subframe they have a frame rail ..camaros have a subframe)
But they do have a subframe otherwise the frame would run from front to back."A subframe is a structural component of a vehicle, such as an automobile or an aircraft, that uses a discrete, separate structure within a larger body-on-frame or unit body to carry certain components, such as the engine, drivetrain, or suspension. The subframe is bolted and/or welded to the vehicle. When bolted, it is sometimes equipped with rubber bushings or springs to dampen vibration.

The principal purposes of using a subframe are, to spread high chassis loads over a wide area of relatively thin sheet metal of a monocoque body shell, and to isolate vibration and harshness from the rest of the body. For example, in an automobile with its powertrain contained in a subframe, forces generated by the engine and transmission can be damped enough that they will not disturb passengers. As a natural development from a car with a full chassis, separate front and rear subframes are used in modern vehicles to reduce the overall weight and cost. In addition a subframe yields benefits to production in that subassemblies can be made which can be introduced to the main bodyshell when required on an automated line."

 
Great, mine are missing...one more thing to purchase.
Well now you know how to fix it.. if they don't fit.. But don't jack from the "subframe" Jack as I instructed..That's why his hood alignment changed.. I'll let you guy's fiqure it out.::chili:: (these cars don't have a subframe they have a frame rail ..camaros have a subframe)
But they do have a subframe otherwise the frame would run from front to back."A subframe is a structural component of a vehicle, such as an automobile or an aircraft, that uses a discrete, separate structure within a larger body-on-frame or unit body to carry certain components, such as the engine, drivetrain, or suspension. The subframe is bolted and/or welded to the vehicle. When bolted, it is sometimes equipped with rubber bushings or springs to dampen vibration.

The principal purposes of using a subframe are, to spread high chassis loads over a wide area of relatively thin sheet metal of a monocoque body shell, and to isolate vibration and harshness from the rest of the body. For example, in an automobile with its powertrain contained in a subframe, forces generated by the engine and transmission can be damped enough that they will not disturb passengers. As a natural development from a car with a full chassis, separate front and rear subframes are used in modern vehicles to reduce the overall weight and cost. In addition a subframe yields benefits to production in that subassemblies can be made which can be introduced to the main bodyshell when required on an automated line."
Yep..in the auto body repair /frame repair world... we consider a subframe a BOLT IN UNIT..So yes , if you want to get technical it does have a subframe..but that subrame is an integral part of the unibody. unlike a bolted in unit..& the repair techniques are alot different for a integral subframe frame rail vs a bolted in front subframe.

 
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