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very nice work on the rear bumper and door! it looks really good..

i did my bumpers as well, i did not go as far as you did,.. but just made them a little narrower (front 1"and the rear 3/4") and shortened the brackets so they sit closer to the body,had the sides to fit the body better, no bolts and it looks so much better





back OT.. on yours, did you use sheetmetal or used the original bumper metal?

anyway, looks really good!!

 
very nice work on the rear bumper and door! it looks really good..

i did my bumpers as well, i did not go as far as you did,.. but just made them a little narrower (front 1"and the rear 3/4") and shortened the brackets so they sit closer to the body,had the sides to fit the body better, no bolts and it looks so much better





back OT.. on yours, did you use sheetmetal or used the original bumper metal?

anyway, looks really good!!
Thanks! You did a nice job on yours as well! On mine I used sheet metal. It's slightly thinner than the original bumper metal. Probably about 14 gauge. Kind of a pain to bend and shape, but any thinner and it would've been way too flimsy.

 
Oh goodie...bondo worms inside the drivers fender next to where the damage was on the door :( doesn't look too bad from the inside though and at least there's easy access from the inside to hammer & dolly it out nice. Gonna strip it and see what I'm dealing with.

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Dam that car looks like its gonna be a beast!!! I'm jealous man! Such a good idea, props. AND KEEP US UPDATED. Hope it gets finished soon. I know what grinding is like... fuah... took me 2 days sun up to sundown just to finish the engine bay. Nice work tho!!


By the way what phosphate etching primer are you using?

 
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By the way what phosphate etching primer are you using?
I use NEXA Autocolor (a PPG brand) P565-597 Long Life Etch Primer.

Last night I got the fender stripped and pre-fit. It had some mud on it as I suspected, but not nearly as bad as what was on the door! The good thing is that there is full access from behind the damage on the fender so it should be an easy hammer/dolly fix :)

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I got the bodywork roughed out and the holes from the old school dent puller as well as the emblem holes welded up. By the end of this week I hope to have the park light hole shaved and the inside stripped and primed.

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Obsidian71

you must have had the same CT Bondo body shop work on your car that did mine back in the day, when my car used to be a CT car :D

my Drivers side Door has so much bondo in it I gave up and just made it look good until I can get a New door.

the rear quarters were bondo filled, the Tail light panel, and the rear valance were all packed with bondo and Bondo worms on the back side.

all of the panels were cut and replaced, except the drivers side door.

 
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Obsidian71

you must have had the same CT Bondo body shop work on your car that did mine back in the day, when my car used to be a CT car :D

my Drivers side Door has so much bondo in it I gave up and just made it look good until I can get a New door.

the rear quarters were bondo filled, the Tail light panel, and the rear valance were all packed with bondo and Bondo worms on the back side.

all of the panels were cut and replaced, except the drivers side door.
lol! My car supposedly is out of Arizona, but I'm not sure how long it was in CT before I got it. I still haven't decided whether the guy who did the car last was the worst body man ever or the best...because I didn't know there was that much mud on the door and usually when there's that much you can tell pretty easily!

 
Well, here's how far I got:

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I would've gotten a lot farther had I not opened my big mouth a few weeks ago and said my welder has never let me down. I was on about the 8th or 9th tack and it let out an ungodly buzzing sound and blew the breaker. I reset the breaker turned it back on...same thing. I guess after 18 years it decided it was done. So, the good news, I no longer have the worlds most tempermental welder, the bad news, I no longer have a welder :(

 
Well, here's how far I got:

I would've gotten a lot farther had I not opened my big mouth a few weeks ago and said my welder has never let me down. I was on about the 8th or 9th tack and it let out an ungodly buzzing sound and blew the breaker. I reset the breaker turned it back on...same thing. I guess after 18 years it decided it was done. So, the good news, I no longer have the worlds most tempermental welder, the bad news, I no longer have a welder :(
O,

I have an extra welder..lincoln power mig .Pm me I have a trade in mind

 
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Well, here's how far I got:

I would've gotten a lot farther had I not opened my big mouth a few weeks ago and said my welder has never let me down. I was on about the 8th or 9th tack and it let out an ungodly buzzing sound and blew the breaker. I reset the breaker turned it back on...same thing. I guess after 18 years it decided it was done. So, the good news, I no longer have the worlds most tempermental welder, the bad news, I no longer have a welder :(
O,

I have an extra welder..lincoln power mig .Pm me I have a trade in mind
I'm officially intrigued...PM sent.

 
I was going to do what you are doing to your Door a few years back, but I just figured I wait until repo doors are made, or I come across a good OEM door.

The bondo artest that did my car in the past made it look GREAT, so I can wait a litle longer.

 
You may want to use the blades made by Exactline products. Its the best contouring tool I've ever found. Putting on bondo (3M 1171 is the bomb) so exact that it spreads shiny with nearly NO sanding required. Perfect, straight contours every time. A MUST when you are doing a black car you want PERFECTLY straight. Also, DO NOT use putties. You are better off using a good SANDABLE epoxy primer like D822 from PPG and waiting 48 hours for the minimal shrink that will occur. After 24 hours there is NO MORE shrinkage, unlike urethane primers that continue to shrink for up to 1 year. You can shoot D822 on at 4 mils per coat. (Use a 1.6mm tip) For a SUPER straight body after blocking with no shrinkage.

Another trick is I made clear plastic templates to put over my 8 ft horizontal site lights in my booth. These "templates" have 1/8" black vertical lines spaced every 1/4" apart. View the site lights from the reflection of the car. If the lines distort in anyway, the body isn't perfect. You need to rework that area. Using sight lights in this fashion makes for a much easier way to prepare a perfectly straight body prior to finding out after the first gloss coat is on and having to re-do.

Great job!

Phil

Total Automation Works - See KigerStang at SEMA 2014

 
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i am sorry to read of your welder issues.I am following your posts very closely and I enjoy each and every one. Who knows you may get a newer welder and realize the old dinosaur was holding out on you all these years. Getting a newer welder may be a blessing in disguise kind of thing. Keep us posted Dennis

 
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