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PeteG41

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I would drain it. If it has ethanol mixed gas it will absorb water even with sta-bil mixed in. If non-ethanol gas you could leave it, but being in TX if it sits through a summer I would imagine the heat would even cook that down in the tank. This may sound crazy to some, but if you have a new tank and do drain it you may also want to consider adding a desiccant drier tied to a string and dropped in the tank with the string hanging out the filler. I did this with my original tank for the 72 when the car was parked in 1998 and not resurrected until 2009. I used a sock with desiccant packets inside of it but not overstuffed to make dropping it in the tank difficult and pulling it out later more difficult. I still have the original tank and the interior is rust free. I know that is extreme, but it worked for me.
Yeah definitely ethanol. 91 from the station down the street. Dang thats a pretty smart trick! Ideally it will only be sitting for another 6 months or so and then I will do the rebuild, but even then the fuel has already been in there a solid 3-4 months. So I think draining it the best I can is the route I will go. Get as much as I can out of the tank, then I think I will disconnect the line at the fuel pump, and blow some air through the lines to try and get the remaining out. As far as possible rodent deterrent, what do you suggest? Where it is parked I am not overly worried about it, but would rather be over cautious than ignore it.
 
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I have used Grandpa Gus rodent repellant bags in my cars for the last 3 years since we moved. We are pretty far out in the country with alot of woods around us. We live in a subdivision, but alot of "nature" around us. These have worked for me and have not left any tell tale smells after or staining on the underlying surface. I do take them out in the summer time. If you are going to leave them in during the hot summer, you may want to put them on a paper plate just in case the heat affects them. There are plenty of rodent deterrent solutions on the market, these are just the path I chose.

 

Hemikiller

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Startron Fuel additive for the gas tank, I have little to no issues with my power equipment that sits in a hot shed all summer.

Didn't realize you were talking about the oil pan leaking. If it's that bad off, drain the oil so it stops leaking. Maybe brake clean the plug and put some RTV on it to seal the deal.
 

PeteG41

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Startron Fuel additive for the gas tank, I have little to no issues with my power equipment that sits in a hot shed all summer.

Didn't realize you were talking about the oil pan leaking. If it's that bad off, drain the oil so it stops leaking. Maybe brake clean the plug and put some RTV on it to seal the deal.
Yep oil, stripped drain plug. Figured it would be easier to do an oversized plug when the motor is out rather than trying to line it up laying on the ground. With that RTV, should I let it cure before I screw it back in there?
 
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You can get a plastic washer at most auto parts stores that works well for a slow leak at the drain plug. It usually deforms a little to help seal around the opening if the threads are bad or the pan may be slightly warped at the plug. They are made of a softer plastic to help fill the opening. This would necessitate at least losing some oil to replace. If the plan is to rebuild, I would just RTV around the plug in place and cll it done until rebuild.
 

PeteG41

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351c 2v, FMX Transmission. Ordered from Sanderson Ford in Phoenix, 99k original miles.
You can get a plastic washer at most auto parts stores that works well for a slow leak at the drain plug. It usually deforms a little to help seal around the opening if the threads are bad or the pan may be slightly warped at the plug. They are made of a softer plastic to help fill the opening. This would necessitate at least losing some oil to replace. If the plan is to rebuild, I would just RTV around the plug in place and cll it done until rebuild.
Yep 100% coming out for a full rebuild. So i'll drain it and silicone it closed. Thanks for the advice!
 
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