Thanks, I counted the ten hash marks as well and was fairly confident, but not certain I was at TDC. Still going to clean it up a bit more. I will definitely invest in a remote starter, great advice. Found one at summit racing for $12. There is about 3/8” - 1/2” of rotational play turning my rotor, so I’m thinking the gears my be worn, plus I can’t start the engine anymore. So I’m trying to get things perfect. Upgrading to a pertronix electronic distributor.
Just my opinion based on what I've learned from my own experience with timing, but I wouldn't waste my money on a Pertronix distributor. My local auto parts store has dropped that line because of too many issues with them. Not to say there have not been improvements since, but I think I would lean toward a reman Motorcraft or Cardone Select new Ford (style) dizzy with a Pertronix Ignitor II module and matching coil. DO NOT be tempted to go with an Ignitor III in a Ford. Unless Pertronix have redesigned the mechanical "bearing" between the two plates, you will have timing problems. I have posted on my experience many times on this. In my case Pertronix took it back and replaced the III with a II and coil and after learning how to rebuild and recurve the distributor to run 16* of initial mechanical timing, I couldn't be happier. I think the problem with most timing on 351C's is they were set retarded at 6* for emissions reasons, when in fact they need much more initial. HO engines were set at 16*.
I'm not sure what you have engine wise, but there is a lot more to getting timing right than meets the eye. I learned the hard expensive way, which is why I tend to be a bit hard on others. All I'm saying is be careful, do your homework, ask a load of questions from the much more experienced guys here before you dive in and start pulling that distributor out.
Again just from my timing wows, the reman. Motorcraft I bought was built for an initial of 6* as the limit slot was called an 15L, which equates to 30 degrees on the crank. If you want to run 14-16 degrees of initial, the max mechanical advance is 34-36 degrees, which means you only need 20 degrees on the crank or an 10L limit slot. I actually stripped my distributor and welded the slot and recut it to give me the required advance,. That slot width is .410". If yours has an 13L slot, you might get away with using a small piece of 3/16" nylon tube slipped over the post, which will do much the same thing and far simpler.
Hope that didn't scare you too much, but it is very important to get it right and I'm afraid a lot of these so-called drop-in aftermarket distributors are far from plug-n-play.
I'm posting a picture of a cam showing a 15L slot and a Cardone Select that I did as a back-up so you can see the limit slot. Next is springs and tension to get the curve just right, but that for later maybe.
EDIT: I didn't mention that my 351 C 4V with only 10:1 pistons still had a lot of spark rattle on 91 octane fuel before I corrected the amount of mechanical advance. I also only put in about 6* of vacuum advance. I ditched the dual vac canister as the retard side (rear tube) is not needed. It pulls up to 6K now with no rattle.
