Temp Gauge

[goodnigh]

Does anyone know what the temp range would be between the

smaller hash marks. My needle is usually pointed at the "E" in

"TEMP" even in hot weather. I run a 180 thermostat.

mike

 

[Tnfastbk]

that would be a good experiment for you to do with a hot plate or other controllable heat source and ramp it up slowly and record results to share. Never seen the range listed myself.

 

[will e]

Probably varies from car to car based on the accuracy of the guage, the sender and the body ground. If I remember correct the 'E' means 'Everything is fine, keep driving... '

 

[goodnigh]

that would be a good experiment for you to do with a hot plate or other controllable heat source and ramp it up slowly and record results to share. Never seen the range listed myself.

Let's see; need a thermostat, 12V DC power supply and cup of

hot water to start. Then figure which terminal on the gauge is

positive. I'll get back to you.

mike

 

[Jim and Jutta]

Does anyone know what the temp range would be between the

smaller hash marks. My needle is usually pointed at the "E" in

"TEMP" even in hot weather. I run a 180 thermostat.

mike

Mike, that's about where mine runs at normal operating temp, like already mentioned different cars probably run normal at different indications on the guage, we just need to know our cars and what's not normal for it. I run a 185 thermostat.

Jim

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Mine is very sensitive and I can watch it heat up when in heavy traffic in hot weather and can see it cool down when the thermostat opens.

Ford gauges are very nice decorations, but I wouldn't trust their accuracy.

 

[Don C]

Remember, the instrument voltage regulator provides approximately 5 volts to the gauges. The purpose for the instrument voltage regulator is to provide a constant voltage to the gauges so that the gauges don't fluctuate with engine/alternator speed. Those of us that had generator charged cars and aftermarket guages could almost use the gauges for a tachometer, there was so much voltage fluctuation from the generator.

 

[Bill73Ragtop]

My 73 vert (H-code) with 195 T-stat runs between the 'T' and 'E'. I'm running a re-cored (couple years ago) 2-row radiator. Checked it a couple times with thermometer and had consistent 193 - 196 temp readings. Variance is from temp rise 'n fall as the car idled.

On cool days /nights, it sometimes takes a while even to hit the 'T'.

 

[goodnigh]

Remember, the instrument voltage regulator provides approximately 5 volts to the gauges. The purpose for the instrument voltage regulator is to provide a constant voltage to the gauges so that the gauges don't fluctuate with engine/alternator speed. Those of us that had generator charged cars and aftermarket guages could almost use the gauges for a tachometer, there was so much voltage fluctuation from the generator.

Good thing I did not hook it up to 12 volts huh?

mike

that would be a good experiment for you to do with a hot plate or other controllable heat source and ramp it up slowly and record results to share. Never seen the range listed myself.

Thought of a better idea. Point an infrared thermometer (a must have

tool) at the temp sensor. See where the needle points.

mike

 

[c9zx]

All great comments above. The sender will make a huge difference in what the gauge says. I haven't seen a replacement (including Motorcraft) in the last 15 years that reads correctly (incorrect resistance, reads hotter than it is ). I salvage every original sender I come across. Chuck

 

[goodnigh]

All great comments above. The sender will make a huge difference in what the gauge says. I haven't seen a replacement (including Motorcraft) in the last 15 years that reads correctly (incorrect resistance, reads hotter than it is ). I salvage every original sender I come across. Chuck

We replaced both the temp gauge and sender about the same time.

The old gauge and sender would read above the "P" most of the time

occasionally going higher. The auxillary vacuum line from the water

pump never kicked in so rpm's remained the same. Not Too hot.

Will use the infrared thermometer.

My oil gauge is always at top of scale and only drops about 20%

at idle during hard driving in hot weather. Who said Clevelands

had an inferior oiling system.

mike

 

[midlife]

These gauges (except for the fuel gauge) are to be used as indicators when things venture outside of "normal" conditions. When you drive, and everything is OK, make a mental note of where your gauge is reading: that is the "normal" reading.

The temp, oil pressure, and fuel gauges are run by the constant voltage regulator. On the back of it is usually a small trim pot, sometimes embedded in epoxy. If you break the epoxy, you can turn the trim pot and adjust the average output voltage. What I do is ensure I have a quarter tank of gas and adjust the trim pot so that the fuel gauge reads 1/4 full. By adjusting the trim pot, you also change the "normal" reading of the other two gauges, so you'll have to re-calibrate your mental notion of what is "normal". Anything inside the two inner hash marks is "normal", so long as it is consistent with the same conditions. When your needle starts moving up or down under these conditions, that is an indication that something is going wrong.

 

[goodnigh]

Got around to measuring the actual temp against the gauge.

When the gauge reads around the "T" the sender reads from

185 to 198, so the thermostat is working. Just for fun, the

intake manifold at the base of the carb reads 145 and the

exhaust manifold around 425. This is at 750 idle.

mike

 

[justimagine]

My car also sits in the E zone as well all tests show that it is working well.