Tilt wheel rag joint (steering coupler) rebuild

[cwalker509]

I will start by saying the Lares 219 rag joint does NOT work on my tilt steering column (came from another 71 Mustang I believe). I started with the 219 but others may work as well. I have another new one but have not compared it (mostly because I do not 100% know where it is). The column side of the 219 will work as is. I accidentally drilled out the wrong rivets. If you do NOT repeat my mistake it is a bit easier.

1. Drill out the rivets on the gear side of your new rag joint. I ground off the upset rivet head and tried driving out the rivet. I ended up using a 19/64 bit after using a smaller dia bit. Then I was able to drive out the rivet.
2. Drill out the rivets on the steering gear side of your original rag joint similar to step 1.
3. The rivets in both the old and new rag joint are stepped. They are 3/8 in the rubber and 5/16 in the metal part.
4. I used 1.25" long button head 5/16 SS bolts (Amazon) and SS nuts and basic SS washers. There is no tension load in this bolt and the button head provides clearance for the 12 pt bolts used to secure the joint to the shafts.
5. I bought 8mm ID x 10mm OD x 6mm long sleeve bearings (also Amazon). 2 of these are needed for each hole. They do make 12mm long bearings but I could not get them expediently nor are they available on Amazon. Amazon does have 15mm long ones but that shipment was delayed. NOTE: the 12mm long ones or 2x6mm worked perfectly. 15mm will need to be trimmed. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SN3RBKW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
6. The bushings will slide inside the rubber with a slight clearance. Note they also fit just inside the bearing plate that is against the rubber. the rubber compresses slightly so the small clearance between the rubber and bushing is reduced.
7. USE LOCTITE ON THE NUTS. You should not need to crank the heck out of the nuts.
8. Again remember you will only need to use 2 bolts unless you screw up like I did.

Doing this repair on your car or any other car is done at your own risk. I put this forward just as an option for fit but NOT for suitability for use on your car. Proceed at your own risk.

 

[cwalker509]

Additional note. I think you could do something similar to this if you do not have an original rag joint. A Lares 201 for a fixed steering column would provide the steering gear side of the rag joint while the 219 provides the column side. Drill out the correct rivets on each rag joint and then reassemble as noted above.

 

[Don C]

This is good information. I would also post it on the forum's Tutorial section:
https://7173mustangs.com/discussion-forum/tutorials.126/

 

[mrgmhale]

All excellent info. Thank you for taking the time to put that together. I did not need to be emboldened before tearing into my Rag Joint refurbishment project. But, I must admit knowing you walked on those hot coals before I did, and offered some experienced counsel, does help me feel better about messing with something s full replacement part is not easily obtainable. I could not find any NOS parts for a new Rag Joint for the tilt column. Just more of the incorrect (fixed column) parts, used and new.

It is times like this that I am so glad I opted to pursue this hobby with very common Mustangs as we still have a lot of parts available. Before I purcahsed our 69 Shelby GT500 I had also been considering getting a 1973 or 1974 AMX, if I could have found one with a 360 or 401, and factory A/C. I did find a really nice one, in truly lovingly care for condition from the original owner. But, that was after I bought the Shelby. I can;t imagine how difficult it must be to get parts for those rare beasts. I sire like how they look - suspicously similar to the 71-73 Mustang coupe. heh heh...

 

[Moderator73]

Fantastic write up and great pictures. Thanks for sharing this. Now I can tackle my replacement with a lot more confidence.