Tired with my engine...

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I'll get one of those!

Thanks for the safety tip. Not expecting any probs though coz my car is always in park when it's parked :)
Yes, but things happen. I knew one old mechanic who pinned himself to the wall with a car he thought was in park. Didn't do his legs any good, which weren't that good to start with.

 
If you were not aware your Pertronix II will work better with a Flamethrower II coil. I have just been through a whole series of emails with one of their Tech guys concerning a faulty Pertronix III. They replaced it with a Pertronix ignitor II and also sent me a Flamethrower II coil with the explanation. It also should be connected to bypass the pink resistor wire to get a full 12V OR you can purchase a Pertonix relay ( which I didn't even know existed!). As for dwell, as long as the air gap is set to .030" (.76mm) you should be fine. There are no other adjustments. I actually did counted sink the 2 screw holes in the baseplate ( old points baseplate) and used 8-32 flat head screws for more accuracy. Just make sure the baseplate is free moving when connected to the vacuum can. There have been recent posts on timing issues that will help you.

As for a remote start switch, absolutely a good tool to have. Rather than Park, I would suggest NEUTRAL and block the wheels, but then I have a manual trans, not into automatics.

 
Ehm, I looked at the schematics and if I understand correctly, for using a remote starter, I put the key to "On" and bridge the big positive lead and smaller lead next to it ("S") on the solenoid? This way, if it starts it should continue to run right?

Just want to make sure I don't screw anything up...

 
Yes. You can test it out by leaving the key off. Hook the remote starter to the positive on the battery and the 's' terminal on the solenoid. This should be the small terminal that is on the same side of the solenoid that the big cable from the battery is on. Hit the remote starter and the engine should turn over but if the key is out (or in the off position) the engine won't start.

Then you can try again with the key in the 'on' position. Keep in mind once the engine starts you release the remote starter and you will need to turn the key 'off' to stop the engine.

If something goes wrong and you need to kill the engine quick just pull the primary coil wire from the coil or top of distributor.

 
Yes, if it is wired correctly. The "I" terminal on the solenoid provides full 12 volts (battery voltage) to the coil when cranking, whether the key is on or off.

 
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Right, I have ordered the Ignitor II and Flame thrower II coil (chrome coz I like shiny things) from CJ as well as a new rotor. Will take at least a week to get here but I'm already excited :)

I think I'll also look for new vacuum lines at a local shop.

What I do not have is a breaker bar to rotate the engine by hand so I can find TDC. The engine will be in the car with the fan blade attached. Will a breaker bar fit?

 
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Yes! CJ's stuff arrived today, didn't take too long!

IMG_3013.JPG


Now I just need some time to put it in. Can't wait :)

 
any tips on how to check timing are appreciated too, never done that. I'll also try reading up.

but what about the plenum thing? Does one half of the carb fuel one side of the engine?

i'll post the method i use to set timing, however, it it is on several threads on the forum . for optimum performance disregard the factory settings as they were designed to help the car pass emissions laws and different setting often yields better perf, mileage and engine cooling.

if you set your timing for optimum perf, you need an adjustable vacuum can p/n bwd v311 or smp vc31 then set it so it adds only 6 degrees of advance.

check your timing with the vacuum disconnected and connected at the same throttle position and post the results.

the point of peak cylinder pressure is round 14 degrees after tdc but this info is not useful to you.

yes you may need to "recurve" your distributor which is often as simple as replacing only one of the advance sprigs with one from mr gasket p/n 925D available at summit racing for around $7.00 . i will tell you which spring to replace if it looks like you need one.

your plugs look xlnt and show that you are not burning oil.

the low compression on the one cylinder may be caused by a leaking valve.

yes, there is no dwell to set per se with the pertronix. . it comes with a gauge to set the clearance.

grab the distributor shaft and wiggle it side to side to see if it has much play . if it does, make sure there is clearance for the pertronix with the shaft pulled closest to it.

make sure your carb is fully opening when the gas pedal is on the floor.

you may need to adjust the vacuum secondary setting on the carb to get the optimum perf out of the engine.

.

 
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Just to keep you all posted. Yesterday I wanted to replace the points with a new Pertronix Ignitor/Flamethrower II setup. Call me stupid but I was quite surprised when I found an ignitor I under the cap... And when I took the coil out and could see the label, it was also a Flamethrower I...

One very odd thing I noticed was this: All the wires going to the coil seemed to be on the wrong polarity. The black wire went to the + and the red one to the - (as were other red ones). That can't be right, right? SO I installed the new coil and module according the the description (red (inc. other red wire) to + and black to - ).

When I started the car the first time a few cilinders fired but then it dropped dead again. Wouldn't fire after that. So It is getting a spark, it is also getting fuel and air. I guess I'm now down to setting the timing as I think there are no vacuum leaks.

So I am good to find TDC. Once I find that, is there a mark on the distributor somewhere that I can use to set it to factory specs so it will fire?

 
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for timing, you can plug the vacuum advance can forever or until further notice.

connect only the number 1 cylinder plug wire

put 1 drop of liquid white out on the 10 degree mark, 2 drops on 20 and 3 drops on 30 going from front to rear on the damper.

put some on the tip of the timing pointer

turn key on

turn engine over as you check the timing and set it to 10 degrees btdc . this is a good place to start.

turn key off and reinstall the plug wires.

after t starts, rev it to 2000 - 2400 rpm rpm and check the timing and post the results.

while at 2000 - 2500 rpm, advance the timing 4 degrees and listen for an increase in engine rpm . if there is a noticeable increase and it still runs smoothly, note the timing then let the engine idle.

at idle, reduce the timing 4 degrees and listen for a noticeable reduction in rpm.

post all results.

 
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oh you can actually time while cranking? I thought that maybe the rpm would be insufficient. Thanks for clearing that up!

Mike: I think it's OK how I did it but I will double check.

thanks guys!

 
One more thing for you to check, make sure the little bare copper ground wire is in place that connects the distributor housing to the breaker plate (that's what the points, or in your case Pertronix, is attached to). Without that ground wire the ground will be intermittent, it might start fine but as soon as the breaker plate is moved by the vacuum advance it may lose ground and die.

 
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