You need to reassess your priorities.thanks for explaning that guys. I'll look into the electronics first, might take while so don't hold your breathe ;-)
You need to reassess your priorities.thanks for explaning that guys. I'll look into the electronics first, might take while so don't hold your breathe ;-)
haha, that requires a chat with:You need to reassess your priorities.thanks for explaning that guys. I'll look into the electronics first, might take while so don't hold your breathe ;-)
Vinniehaha, that requires a chat with:You need to reassess your priorities.thanks for explaning that guys. I'll look into the electronics first, might take while so don't hold your breathe ;-)
1) The missus
2) My boss
In regards to the timing, I read that some Harmonic balancer needs to be checked first. Is that where the timing mark is on? I don't even know where that thing lives in my engine. I'm guessing at the front somewhere... And actually resetting the timing, that means losening the distributor and with the engine running spinning the distributor a few degrees?
EDIT: I found some useful videos on youtube. If I'm correct I should be able to find the timermark somewhere at the front. Seemed easy to do with the right equipment (which I need to get first...).
Chances are, the previous owner figured the timing is best set to 6* BTDC (just like every other 'hot rodder wanna-be'), and put the white mark on the balancer so as long as the mark is lined up with the indicator, the car is timed properly.Well. I went to look for the balancer and I found it but sheesh it's not easy to see from above! I cleaned it a bit and there's a mark at 6 for some reason:
That's what I've never really understood about the 'fancy' timing lights with the variable offset built-in. I've always had/used a standard timing light that didn't have that ability. Thanks for explaining that. ::thumb::If you get the fancy timing light you can just mark zero. The light will offset for you. For example, you set the light to 12 and when you are at 12 BTDC it will flash right at the zero. They are very cool.
A, but I'm not pulling it out, I'm just replacing my points and I think I'm going to assume TDC has been set correct for now I think. Or would that be reeeaaaalllllly stupid of me? :-|... After that, you need to ensure you have TDC when you start pulling the distributor's guts to ensure the position of the rotor inside the cap.
Thanks for clearing that up! Yes, one video explained about influencing the curve by fiddling with little springs inside the distributor, which makes complete sense to me.Both are important. You don't want your idle timing set too high, as you will likely run into pinging issues, which can damage your engine. You check total timing to make sure the mechanical (centrifugal) and vacuum advance are working, if not, resulting in too low total advance, or too high. If everything is functioning properly and your total advance still isn't where you want it you'll have to modify your distributor curve, a subject that has been discussed several times on our forum.
Pulling the points IS pulling the distributor's guts - or a good part of them, at least. Modern solid-state distributors don't have points. You are converting your distributor from points to a modern solid-state distributor by swapping in the Pertronix module.A, but I'm not pulling it out, I'm just replacing my points and I think I'm going to assume TDC has been set correct for now I think. Or would that be reeeaaaalllllly stupid of me? :-|... After that, you need to ensure you have TDC when you start pulling the distributor's guts to ensure the position of the rotor inside the cap.
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