UnderBody Work | Need new floor pans and inner rocker panels - advice?

[1973_Mustang_Conv]

I am new to the forums , my apologies for the reposting:

I really need some help. I need to get the underbody completed in my 73 Convertible.

Both my inner rockers panel (rusted from bottom) and floor pans are rusted in my vehicle . See the following:

I am trying to interview local body shops to perform the work.

Unfortunately , I am getting all sorts of numbers to do this ($1,000 to $10,000).

One body shop mentioned he wouldn't trust any one locally to repair it since its a classic car, but he won't do it .

Any one have an idea of what a true ballpark should be ?

The biggest hurdle seems to be the inner rocker panels . Any one have contacts in the area to at least complete the inner rocker panels?

If I hired a person with basic welding experience would they be able to assist me in getting this done?

I do have the floor pans and the inner rocker panel from the PO (previous owner).

Im in the Charlotte NC Metro area.

 

[OMS]

I'll check with some guys I know in your area

Don

 

[cudak888]

1973_Mustang_Conv - welcome! Convertibles are more intensive and difficult to repair than hardtops or Sportsroofs. It's best if you'd start a new thread for your car.

-Kurt

 

[judge]

$3,500 is the going rate in eastern Va. I had similar issues on my 71 vert.. In case you needed to know, I used the 1965-70 lower under seat pans on my convertible. They take about 20 minutes to modify.

 

[OLE PONY]

Not sure if they still do, but CJ Pony Parts use to publish prices for some common body repairs, like floor pans, on classic Mustangs. Maybe check their website or give them a call. Probably about an 8 hour trip from Charlotte.

 

[1973_Mustang_Conv]

$3,500 is the going rate in eastern Va. I had similar issues on my 71 vert.. In case you needed to know, I used the 1965-70 lower under seat pans on my convertible. They take about 20 minutes to modify.

Thanks for responding ..

Did you have to replace the seat pans on your vehicle?

Did the $3500 include the parts or was the hours of labor?

Reason I ask is I do have the parts (inner rockers and the floor pans ..)

Not sure if they still do, but CJ Pony Parts use to publish prices for some common body repairs, like floor pans, on classic Mustangs. Maybe check their website or give them a call. Probably about an 8 hour trip from Charlotte.

I took your advice and CJ's no longer posts the pricing.

They transferred my call to a Body shop who gave me ballpark of $9500:(yikes) .

 

[imusa76]

I paid around $3300 about 11 yrs ago at auto rust tech here in RI ( www.autorust.com )

it was parts and labor, DR side full floor, Pass side Full floor, both inner rockers, and sandblasting the entire under carrage and painting it.

I'll post some pics when I get home tonight.

 

[tempestairbrush]

I did full floor pans driver side and passenger side in my fastback along with one rocker panel and it took me around 35-40 hours if you want another estimate on time and pictures in my build thread on this site. I used mustang coupe seat pans and modified them to fit the fastback as they sat up too high if I installed them as they were. I agree with the post above the main problem with a convertible vs a fastback or coupe is that the car relies so much more on the floor as the main support especially with rocker panels. If it was my car and before I started cutting away at it, (and I would only do everything in sections not at once to not disrupt the structure more than you already have too) I would almost build a mini jig holding the car in place so it doesn't sag and to provide the support for the structure you are replacing. Hopefully the rust isn't too bad at this point that it isn't starting to sag already.

 

[judge]

I did my 71 vert myself. Didn't have to replace seat risers. Replaced two long floors (front to back), one rocker, LH door post and the modified lower pans (from 65-70style). By the way the cross member plate from 65-70 works also on our car. I've done about a dozen convertible floors/rockers. Its not a bad way to develop your skills and buy some tools. The $3,500 price included the parts, my car stripped of the fenders and the interior. A shop that has done Mustangs would have no problem with pricing it in that range. I'd recommended you protecting the glass. I have templates from poster board that I use. You don't want grinding or welding pittin g your glass. Cover inside and out.

 

[Qcode351mach]

3500.00 is on the cheap side to set up the car on a jig.. frame machine.. install required bracing to facilitate structural parts removal do the job start to finish..(remove interior--reassembly) I could see that number if the car is ready to go interior stripped..rust media blasted, parts & all materials supplied. Owner does reassembly..That would be for straight labor take out the old put in new..Coating of hidden inner structure with rust bullet or epoxy not included..That would also be a overlap of the floor seam not a seamless floor joint..Seamless floor joint extra..Lots of ways to do the job cheaply..All depends the level you want & how long you want it to last. Keep in mind too that your dealing with the main structure unibody of the car which is what the suspension bolts to aligns with but even more important is the safety aspect of retaining the built in crash zones structural integrity of the car.

 

[imusa76]

I dropped my car off with the interior stripped out of it, to save on labor cost.

here are some pictures of the work done, before and after, it was worth every penny spent.

Now like I said this was 11 yrs ago, so I'm sure the labor cost had gone up since.

 

[1973_Mustang_Conv]

I dropped my car off with the interior stripped out of it, to save on labor cost.

here are some pictures of the work done, before and after, it was worth every penny spent.

Now like I said this was 11 yrs ago, so I'm sure the labor cost had gone up since.

Appreciate your sharing your Pics with me .

I am about 2 bolts left on getting the interior removed .

May have to drive the vehicle with a Milk crate to get to the body shop

On the serious side - Didn't Notice much info on replacing the inner rocker panels for the 71 - 73 Convertible series.

Did the body shop take the pictures for you or did you walk on to check the work and take them?

 

[1973_Mustang_Conv]

I'll check with some guys I know in your area

Don

Thanks Don.

Let me know what you find.

 

[1973_Mustang_Conv]

I did full floor pans driver side and passenger side in my fastback along with one rocker panel and it took me around 35-40 hours if you want another estimate on time and pictures in my build thread on this site. I used mustang coupe seat pans and modified them to fit the fastback as they sat up too high if I installed them as they were. I agree with the post above the main problem with a convertible vs a fastback or coupe is that the car relies so much more on the floor as the main support especially with rocker panels. If it was my car and before I started cutting away at it, (and I would only do everything in sections not at once to not disrupt the structure more than you already have too) I would almost build a mini jig holding the car in place so it doesn't sag and to provide the support for the structure you are replacing. Hopefully the rust isn't too bad at this point that it isn't starting to sag already.

Thanks for the time estimate very helpful as I get quotes together.

As far as I can tell the doors are still aligned.

What checks can I perform to make sure its not sagging and what can I check after the rocker panels and floor pans are put in to confirm its aligned correctly..

 

[imusa76]

They took the pictures for me, I did stop in daily to check on the progress.

the total time spent on he car was 55 hrs, it was done in a little over a week.

This place only works on rust repairs, they don't do final body work, strictly rust repairs.

I stripped the interior, and I put the Drivers seat back in to move the car around (safer then the milk crate)

 

[1973_Mustang_Conv]

1973_Mustang_Conv - welcome! Convertibles are more intensive and difficult to repair than hardtops or Sportsroofs. It's best if you'd start a new thread for your car.

-Kurt

Kurt,

Thanks for the information, as I read more and more I am starting to realize the subtle and not so subtle differences. Guess this why I still admire the 71- 73 series . Had a 72 coupe many years ago . This is my first convertible ..Learning something new everyday.

 

[tempestairbrush]

I would say if the doors close ok now and the gaps look good you should be alright as I don't know maybe someone here can give you some measurements convertibles to check. As far as measurements after as long as the person doing the work supports the car before cutting you should be ok as it shouldn't have the opportunity to move. I would take measurements off certain areas of the car then compare them before and after just for piece of mind and if you take measurements make sure you account to variables like uneven floors, psi in tires and suspension height.

Thanks for the time estimate very helpful as I get quotes together.

As far as I can tell the doors are still aligned.

What checks can I perform to make sure its not sagging and what can I check after the rocker panels and floor pans are put in to confirm its aligned correctly..

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Good Morning,

I am also new to the group but not new to Mustangs and cars. I was an automotive tooling engineer for the last 30 years and tool & die maker before that.

Mustangs, especially convertibles should only have floor / frame work done with the car on a "JIG" to keep everything in place.

There is a shop in I think Atlanta that has the JIGs to put your car in the proper position and major floor and frame work is all they do. Graverobbers is their name if I remember correctly. Do a search and you should find their web page.

Since you have not done this job before it is not something for a first timer unless you have someone helping that has done the work. When I go to work on any new project I take the car to a frame shop and have them tweak the frame / body back to the factory specs. Mustangs, especially with 351 C and 429 engines will tend to bend over time from the pounding of the road, rust and the heavy engines. If you have access to a set of Ford car shop manuals go to the Volume 4 Body manual. In section 47-07-10 you will find the Underbody Dimensions for the Mustang Cougar. A good frame shop now uses lasers to verify these dimensions. Shock towers will move inches on a really rusty car. If you remove the floors and frame rails without properly bracing the body the door openings will be all out of shape and you will never get the body to look right without lots of pain. If you do not have the Ford manual I can scan the pages you need and email. The entire car body had holes that are used at the factory to position and space the body panels in the correct place. Ford at one time tried to go with their "No adjust car build" but found that it is impossible. Today with like truck frames they weld them up and then go into a fixture and laser cut the mounting points to make them right instead of trying to hold them in place during all the welding.

Long post but your best bet will be the Graverobbers I think.

Not too far from you in Hendersonville, N.C. have four convertibles and two Mach 1's, SVO and Ann car.

Do it right and you will be happy.

David

 

[1973_Mustang_Conv]

I am new to the forums , my apologies for the reposting:

I really need some help. I need to get the underbody completed in my 73 Convertible.

Both my inner rockers panel (rusted from bottom) and floor pans are rusted in my vehicle . See the following:

I am trying to interview local body shops to perform the work.

Unfortunately , I am getting all sorts of numbers to do this ($1,000 to $10,000).

One body shop mentioned he wouldn't trust any one locally to repair it since its a classic car, but he won't do it .

Any one have an idea of what a true ballpark should be ?

The biggest hurdle seems to be the inner rocker panels . Any one have contacts in the area to at least complete the inner rocker panels?

If I hired a person with basic welding experience would they be able to assist me in getting this done?

I do have the floor pans and the inner rocker panel from the PO (previous owner).

Im in the Charlotte NC Metro area.

Its been a couple of weeks and after some consideration (couldn't locate a great fabricator locally.) I choose a body shop North of Charlotte.

Don appreciate your looking for me .

Here's what they started working on a few weeks ago with the inner rocker and floor pans.

Looking at these pictures I wish I had the room or knowledge on welding.

But as been suggested it is a structural piece, so best left to those that know.

Its been a few weeks and the Garage looks mighty empty..

I guess I'll spend my time sweeping it out ..