vibration

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naa10104

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 26, 2014
Messages
446
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Location
Reston, VA
My Car
1973 Convertible, matching #'s H Code, Auto
Hello,

Would like to install new tailshaft bushing and rear trans seal.  I don't have the proper tools to install with tailpiece in vehicle, may not have the room either.  May be easier to remove the tailpiece and install these new parts.  How would I do this ?  I know how to remove the drive shaft but am not sure about supporting the trans and exactly what parts I have to remove to get the tail piece out.  Four bolts to actually remove the tail piece, but the tail piece is also attached to the trans mount.  Any pointers/advice would be apprecitated. I also swapped wheels/tires back to front and vice versa, made no difference in the vibration. I did check the yoke where it enters into the tail piece and there is distinct play in this area, thinking the tailshaft bushing is worn out.  Thanks 






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How is the transmission mount? It looks to me like there are pieces of rubber hanging out of it.

You will have to support the transmission, and raise it slightly to get the mount and cross member off. A jack and a piece of 2x4 long enough to span the pan, at the rear of the pan, should work. Have a pan ready to catch the fluid when the tailshaft housing is loosened. You'll need a new gasket, or make one. You'll need a torque wrench to torque the bolts to 25-30 ft.lbs.

Detailed instructions are in the Shop Manual, chapter 17-10, section 4.

 
Sounds good, can the tail shaft be removed and the new one installed without any special tools ? Can I drive the old one out with a socket or similar and carefully reinstall the new one with a socket or similar and block of wood and hammer ? A bushing driver can be expensive and hard to find. Already checked with the auto part stores in my area and they do not loan that type of tool. Thanks

 
Ford dealers had tools that would do the job on the car. The remover went around the output shaft and grabbed the front of the bushing from the inside, so they didn't have to disassemble the transmission. Unless you have that specific tool (T57P-7697-A) you'll need to remove the extension housing and do the R&R on the bench.

I highly recommend you purchase a seal and bushing driver kit. It will help save you from damaging the new parts when installing them.

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Master-Bushing-Driver-33-Piece/dp/B07738ZPMW

You could also use a punch to drive the old bushing out and a block of wood or a socket to get the new bushing and seal in place.

You could take the extension housing to any transmission shop and they'd probably do the job for you for a dozen donuts plus parts.

 
I was down at my local NAPA store to day. They had pressed on a couple of bearings for me that I had purchased from them for free. I asked them about the tail shaft bushing and seal and they said they would press out the old and put in the new for free if the parts were purchased from them. You might want to check them out in your area and see if they offer the same.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
More follow up .... is there a definitive test/way to tell if rear transmission mount needs to be replaced ? Was told this was something to check on ref. the problem in this thread, but it looks ok and there is no movement or looseness in the mount. Don't know if it is original or not. Thanks

Steve

 
More follow up .... is there a definitive test/way to tell if rear transmission mount needs to be replaced ?  Was told this was something to check on ref. the problem in this thread, but it looks ok and there is no movement or looseness in the mount.  Don't know if it is original or not.  Thanks

Steve
That's a fairly easy test (once the car is high enough to see/access)

using a jack or whatever support a bit the rear of the trans.

The trans mount is hold by 2 long bolts with a nut on each side of the frame. So if the mount itself is loose, the rubber too soft you'd feel it.

The insulation. The rubber between the trans and this mount is fixed by two large bolts. Itself has 2 other bolts going on each side of the trans.

Inspection is easy, remove the two large bolts in the middle. Just turn loose a bit the side of the mount with 2 holes. remove the other side (single hole, long axle)

The mount will pivot down and you have access to the rubber part. if damaged/missformed you'll know right away, if not, check if the 2 bolts on each side are there and tight. Make sure the rear of the trans is secure and supported at same height the whole time. To reinstall/eventually replace is the same easy procedure. 

I have just re-plated these rusty dirty parts, you can see them in details in my thread, last and previous post if that helps.

 
Hello,

After more research and actually looking at the tailshaft and attempting to move the driveshaft around I do not believe I need a new tailshaft bushing. One transmission mechanic actually checked for play in the tailshaft bushing and said it was fine. When I try to make the the yoke move within the bushing I feel a slight click or movement so small almost not worth mentioning. Less than 1 mm. I also pulled the driveshaft yesterday to check the u-joints and found no signs of scoring, discoloring or wear on the yoke where it passes through the bushing. The rear u-joint was replaced less than 3k ago and the front feels fine. No play or looseness and no binding. The two caps I could easily pull off of the u-joints looked fine. All needle bearings in place. The grease within these was black and old in appearance. I was thinking that it might be a good idea to lube both u-joints with a very good quality grease before I install the driveshaft. I understand that you should actually pump each full until all the old grease is pushed out of the caps. Does that sound accurate ? The rear trans mount looks fine as far as I can tell and does not seem loose. I will loosen it today so I can see the condition of the rubber bumper in case that is worn. Any other advice woudl be appreciated. Thanks

 
Hello,

      Still chasing this vibration in front end.  U joints, drive shaft, rear trans mount, and tail shaft bushing all seem good.  I was told to check the front bearings and calipers.  I pulled it all apart today, first time in five years since I bought the car.  Nothing shocking ... calipers and mounting bolts were rusty, dry etc.  Mounting bolts need a good cleaning and lubing.  I tried to push the pistons back in the caliper and they seemed stiff.  I have enclosed photos showing how far I got each side piston back.  The bearings look good, no discoloration/pitting/looseness/ although they seemed as though they needed more grease.  Tightness of bearing nut seemed good.  I have enclosed pictures of the bearings, spindles, calipers.  Questions:

1.  Should the pistons go back into the calipers further or does this look normal ?

2.  Do spindles look okay, wear wise ?

3. Bearings look okay ?  Of note  ... two different bearing manufacturers for each side of the car.  They so seem correct for the car.  I know nothing of the history or age of any of these components.

Would it be best just to replace bearings/seals/caliper bolts etc.  Thanks



























 
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