Haha, yup that looks about right. Thanks. I even ended up cutting 1/4 coil off of them to get to the height I wanted. I like the way it feels, went with slightly softer kyb shocks to make up for the stiffer coil and it seems to work well.Great looking build..
Your springs made chuckle and think back to when I did mine. lol
Vozaday Build
- Thread starter vozaday
- Start date
Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:
Got resonators installed before the tailpipes today. Wow what a difference. Drone is pretty much gone. It really tamed down the exhaust also, but that the same time gave it a much deeper tone.
Last edited by a moderator:
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2016
- Messages
- 524
- Reaction score
- 2
- Location
- Clover
- My Car
- 72 Mach 1, Q code 351CJ, 4 speed.
Car looks great all but that nasty Clemson orange!!! Needs to be Gamecock burgundy!!! lollerz
JK, hopefully you get the South Carolina instate rivalry reference.
Seriously your car looks awesome! ::thumb::
Wade
JK, hopefully you get the South Carolina instate rivalry reference.
Seriously your car looks awesome! ::thumb::
Wade
Haha, thanks. Sorry Canadian so don't really know the reference. But I get the team rivalry thing.
So it's been a while since I've updated, and unfortunately I won't be saying much yet. I started the EFI install, noticed a few things as I tore down parts of the engine such as missing restrictor plate, horrible oil pressure fitting install, etc. Well finally back to putting it all together. The engine should look much cleaner and following the build of my car. My mother sent me this pic today as she is doing some painting for me. Here is a bit of a teaser. 
Unfortunately I'm waiting on a few more engine bay cosmetic parts. So the rest will have to wait till then.
Unfortunately I'm waiting on a few more engine bay cosmetic parts. So the rest will have to wait till then.
Ok. I had to share this. 
Also Aussie heads on route
Also Aussie heads on route
Finished most of the wiring and fuel lines today. I hooked the Key wire to the positive of the coil and the Tach wire to the negative of the coil. I'm hoping that will work. All thats left is wiring the fuel pump, drilling the exhaust for the O2 sensor and filling it back up with coolant.
Ok, time for an update. Had a crazy busy summer and haven't had the time to work on the car much. I ran into a return fuel pressure issue. In the spring the car fired right up without any issues, then started to idle poorly. I looked underneath and found a pool of fuel. I walked away from it at that point and just never found time to continue.
Well, this fall I had some time again. I dropped the fuel tank (unfortunately the bolts were tight and they just turned so I had to dismantle the back half of the car) and pulled out the vent cap I was using as the return. I guess I should have done some more research to see it goes down to a pin hole leak. So I drilled it out and put better hose and clamps on.
The difference in how the engine responds in astounding. I had my carb pretty well dialed in so there was no hesitation and power was great, but never had throttle response like this. I did have a hesitation at first but with some playing around I got it smoothened out within a couple minutes. It is amazing how easy it is to tune a vehicle when you don't need to tear down a carb every time you need to make an adjustment. You can changed settings as you drive, you can hear the difference as you adjust it.
Now I just need to get the new spark plug wires in and the black alternator.
Well, this fall I had some time again. I dropped the fuel tank (unfortunately the bolts were tight and they just turned so I had to dismantle the back half of the car) and pulled out the vent cap I was using as the return. I guess I should have done some more research to see it goes down to a pin hole leak. So I drilled it out and put better hose and clamps on.
The difference in how the engine responds in astounding. I had my carb pretty well dialed in so there was no hesitation and power was great, but never had throttle response like this. I did have a hesitation at first but with some playing around I got it smoothened out within a couple minutes. It is amazing how easy it is to tune a vehicle when you don't need to tear down a carb every time you need to make an adjustment. You can changed settings as you drive, you can hear the difference as you adjust it.
Now I just need to get the new spark plug wires in and the black alternator.
Since I only had the car running for the past couple weeks the wife wanted to take some pictures. Seeing as to how last year I couldn't get them done by a local photographer due to the carb failing. She is a photographer but has never done automotive. I think she did pretty decent. I added them to the glamour shot section: https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-fall-shots-pic-heavy
Started the build of the Aussie heads. Dropped them off at the machine shop. The owner was pretty pumped about them asking me where I got them. Said he has only worked on 4 pairs in his 30 years of owning the shop. It’s a little pricey, but still cheaper than getting aluminum head and up here with the exchange rates. It will have stainless valves, bronze guides as well as hardened seats and spring pad modified. Excited to get these done and replace that cracked head on the car.
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2015
- Messages
- 4,441
- Reaction score
- 272
- Location
- Iowa
- My Car
- 1973 Mustang Grande 351C 2v
Very cool. I am running the Aussie heads as well. Love them. What are you going to run for a cam with them?
I’m thinking either going to the 284hr or 290hr from the 270hr. I’m just worried about the amount of spring pressure for the screw in studs. The 284hr has the same amount of lift as the 270hr so I know that’s safe. The 290 is a little taller and if I calculated spring pressure correctly will bring me over 340lbs.
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2015
- Messages
- 4,441
- Reaction score
- 272
- Location
- Iowa
- My Car
- 1973 Mustang Grande 351C 2v
I would check out what your dynamic compression will be with the different cams. There is a calculator on here somewhere that a member posted. A lot will be dependent on what you run for pistons and what you end up with for combustion chamber size.
That is definitely part of my consideration. Ive played with that calculator a little. I’ve gotten a ton of photos of opened up CC’s so worst case I’ll do some grinding. But I’m definitely going to run flat top pistons.
Tore down the engine today to get ready for the new heads. Was disappointed to find dished pistons. But on the plus side I can run this cam for a year and upgrade next year.
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2015
- Messages
- 4,441
- Reaction score
- 272
- Location
- Iowa
- My Car
- 1973 Mustang Grande 351C 2v
Are those marked 60 over? That is a lot of bore for a Cleveland. I am running a small dish on mine and it seems to like it.
Yes it does. And yes the .060 does concern me a little. I’m going to pay attention to my coolant and start building a short block next winter. Run it as it is this year. With our conversations I’m going to go back with the 284hr since compression isn’t as much of an issue.
The good news on the old heads is it did have stainless one piece valves. The bad news was no bronze guides and this isn’t the only crack I’ve found.
New heads look awesome though. Can’t wait to get these bolted on.
Decided to grab the weiand intake I had bought in the summer for a coat of paint. Just need to decide if I’m willing to take apart the FiTech to paint it black or keep it silverish.
