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Ordered new rag joint, pitman arm, and looking to find a place to order rebuilt power steering box.
Many years ago, 2002 or so, I was able to get a replacement steering box from Auto Zone or Advance Auto I believe.
I got mine about 7 months ago from Advance - very reasonable price, but check the input shaft to make sure the rag-joint will work with it. Mine wound up being slightly different and required some creativity to get it in there. It's still not quite right, but it's just a roller for now so I'll make it right when it gets closer to being a real car again.

 
Got the tail light panel DONE today! Everything went well... a little 'too' well, it seems. Had me scratchin' my head for a little while wondering what I did wrong - but I can't find anything wrong... so BONUS!

Here's the corner patch after 'blasting and getting it all welded in. Fits like a glove!

424034_379616138715977_100000027814872_1422449_962962361_n.jpg


Then, after lots of measuring, and even using a bottle jack and 4x4 underneath the weatherstripping channel to boost up the left side about 1/4", it's all in.

422164_379616188715972_100000027814872_1422450_1116027888_n.jpg


After getting the trunk lid put back on and lined up, I used it to help line up the panel (as Scott advised) - which helped immensely. Also cleaned off the yellow grease pencil from the junkyard and decided to make it a 'Mach 1' again - Sharpies Rule!

419207_379616232049301_100000027814872_1422451_2031762950_n.jpg


And finally, popped the quarter extensions on and lined everything up. I'm not saying it's perfect, but I think I can be really happy with how it came out (with proper alignment of the extensions and everything once the new quarters are on, that is).

425673_379616258715965_100000027814872_1422453_4443742_n.jpg


Now, it's just a matter of getting the new wheel houses in, so I can change out the quarters. Hopefully, I can get them here by next weekend. If not, I still got bumper brackets, the latch, and the gas tank forward strap bracket to get done.

It's all starting to come together. It's weird... but 'good' weird.
Congrats Eric I'm sure your happy to be at this point.Your going strong keep at it.

 
A few weeks ago, I stumbled over the valve covers of my car's original 302 and I decided to restore them. As Corporate blue was not available at the time we painted the crate engine, we painted it light blue and I happened to have a can of paint left, so I thought I'd go for the "wrong" color anyway.

When they were done I liked them so much that I decided to go from this:

Foto(6)a.jpg

To this:

Foto(7)a.jpg

I know most people go the other way around, but.. you know.... it's me! :p

I always liked the "Ford Racing" ones, especially as it is a "Ford Racing" crate engine, but I kinda like the sleeper look of the original covers.

 
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Got the tail light panel DONE today! Everything went well... a little 'too' well, it seems. Had me scratchin' my head for a little while wondering what I did wrong - but I can't find anything wrong... so BONUS!

Here's the corner patch after 'blasting and getting it all welded in. Fits like a glove!

424034_379616138715977_100000027814872_1422449_962962361_n.jpg


Then, after lots of measuring, and even using a bottle jack and 4x4 underneath the weatherstripping channel to boost up the left side about 1/4", it's all in.

422164_379616188715972_100000027814872_1422450_1116027888_n.jpg


After getting the trunk lid put back on and lined up, I used it to help line up the panel (as Scott advised) - which helped immensely. Also cleaned off the yellow grease pencil from the junkyard and decided to make it a 'Mach 1' again - Sharpies Rule!

419207_379616232049301_100000027814872_1422451_2031762950_n.jpg


And finally, popped the quarter extensions on and lined everything up. I'm not saying it's perfect, but I think I can be really happy with how it came out (with proper alignment of the extensions and everything once the new quarters are on, that is).

425673_379616258715965_100000027814872_1422453_4443742_n.jpg


Now, it's just a matter of getting the new wheel houses in, so I can change out the quarters. Hopefully, I can get them here by next weekend. If not, I still got bumper brackets, the latch, and the gas tank forward strap bracket to get done.

It's all starting to come together. It's weird... but 'good' weird.
Eric, did you make the front gas tank support yet?

I have 3 - 5 - ? a bunch of them

Don
Eric, better get moving

Wheel wells will be delivered today

Don

 
Eric, better get moving

Wheel wells will be delivered today

Don
Oh SNAP! Gonna hafta start calling you 'Miracle Man,' or something.

Thank You - Thank You - Thank You!

 
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Got the quarter off today..Was a bitch to do it nicely so the quarter can be reused.. But we made it happen.. Decided to scuff up the inner structure & give it a fresh coat of rust bullet...So hopefully by next week should have the new one welded on..I have a possible deal on selling it but first cash gets it Looking for $550.00 Totally usable just gonna need some cleanup & a few small dents removed..Not a big deal.. Oh & to add to Boss1Ray's question about doing a full otr vs an aftermarket skin..Having the entire qtr off allows you to fully remove any rust in the inner struture & then protect it with rust bullet..Just like in my pictures..Something you can't do just sectioning in a skin..

100_3447.JPG100_3450.JPG

 
Well folks seems I'm back and with a passion. Removed and replace my windshield last night. Had a small leak and a minor scratch about 3 inches long that everyone said would buff out but it bothered me, so I will have a nice windshield for sale cheap with a small scratch. Then went back today to install my new EMS billet hood hinges thats when the trouble started. First of all they had been on order for nearly 6 weeks because of the shocks not holding our hoods up. Well whoever redesigned them missed the mark, still DO NOT hold our hoods up. Two of the bolts with the kit are too short( no biggy) but as per the instruction they have you install the shocks before installation the remove for adjustments:huh: With the shocks install something is majorly wrong. The hood is in perfect alignment without the shocks on and jacks the back of the hood up a good 1/4 inch installed. Of coarse they are closed on weekends so my only choice was to remove the shocks and call on Monday:mad::mad::mad:

Well here is the almost final update. Got an email from Eddie Motor Sports that read:

Roy,

I can not see anything else to try to do. It looks like you have it the way I would to get the rear of the hood down.

Thank you,

With that said made arrangements for them to be sent back with a full refund minus return shipping of coarse. But I did ask for a week to get my stock ones powder coated. Supposedly they test fit these on one of our cars and have sold 5-6 sets with no issues:s

 
Got the quarter off today..Was a bitch to do it nicely so the quarter can be reused.. But we made it happen.. Decided to scuff up the inner structure & give it a fresh coat of rust bullet...So hopefully by next week should have the new one welded on..I have a possible deal on selling it but first cash gets it Looking for $550.00 Totally usable just gonna need some cleanup & a few small dents removed..Not a big deal.. Oh & to add to Boss1Ray's question about doing a full otr vs an aftermarket skin..Having the entire qtr off allows you to fully remove any rust in the inner struture & then protect it with rust bullet..Just like in my pictures..Something you can't do just sectioning in a skin..
Thanks for the pics, Q! Nice to see how it all goes together in there. So far, it looks like the vast majority of my rust is all down low - I'm hoping when I get the quarters off (sections) that I won't find anything up high, otherwise I might have to go down the same road as you.

Speaking of: I got outer wheelhouses! (Thanks again, Don!) Looks like after I replace the water softener tomorrow after work, it's "Game On" for the quarters this weekend!

 
My latest project. This week I dealt with a heat problem under my back seats from my flowmasters (I hope I dealt with it). It's very seldom I have someone in the back seat but a couple of weeks ago one of my friends was in the back seat and said his butt was frying from the heat. I checked and sure enough the seat was very warm to the touch, so last weekend I pulled the rear seat and found that the bottom was actually scorched on both sides to point I believe it's a possible fire hazard (see pics) The seat is directly over my flowmaster 40 series mufflers. So I bought some dynamat extreme and started out just to do the area under the rearseat and ended up doing the whole back area of the car including the back deck. I heated the interior of the car over night to 85 degrees with a space heater, prior to putting the dynamat down so it would bond easier to the metal. I built a bolt on/off pad covered with dynamat behind the seat to allow future access to the shocks rather than sealing it off and having to access them from the trunk, which is a real pain unless your a contortionist. I'll have it back together this weekend and see if that keeps the heat down...if not I'll add a "dynapad" under the rear seat. I suspect it'll not only hold the heat down in the back seat but also eliminate some of the "tin can sound" I sometimes get at certian RPMS.

seat1.jpgseat2.jpgdynamat.jpg

 
Ok folks got the car back to the body shop to fix a few spots and for the final sand and buff. The painter is wanting to put mine and my buddies 69 camaro both in the show area of the rod run in April. Still undecided if I want to or not. Told him it depended on how the car looked when I got it back. Also was able to remove the hood and get the hinges sent back to Cali for a refund. The stock ones are at the powder coater and will be done early next week, by then my new spring will be here from OMS.

 
Here is my Saturday

1 DS 1/4 butt weld

March 10-12 013.JPG



Got the quarter off today..Was a bitch to do it nicely so the quarter can be reused.. But we made it happen.. Decided to scuff up the inner structure & give it a fresh coat of rust bullet...So hopefully by next week should have the new one welded on..I have a possible deal on selling it but first cash gets it Looking for $550.00 Totally usable just gonna need some cleanup & a few small dents removed..Not a big deal.. Oh & to add to Boss1Ray's question about doing a full otr vs an aftermarket skin..Having the entire qtr off allows you to fully remove any rust in the inner struture & then protect it with rust bullet..Just like in my pictures..Something you can't do just sectioning in a skin..

Very Nice work Q

Oh yah it took me 8 hours to fit and weld the DS 1/4 top.

so a full 1/4 would be the way to go if you can get them.

 
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Here is my Saturday

1 DS 1/4 butt weld

Very Nice work Q

Oh yah it took me 8 hours to fit and weld the DS 1/4 top.

so a full 1/4 would be the way to go if you can get them.
Thanks M ! Looking good in your neighborhood TOO ! Yes sir 8 hours & thats just the top ..PLUS you still have to grind smooth etc..It takes tons of time to Butt weld a qtr skin..

 
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My day just got better!

A friend of mine picked up a drive train for his project and the guy give him a bunch of parts with it.

So I scored a set of 71- 4v heads and intake with the stud and rods for free!

Now I know how Mike felt when he scored his set, less the creepy spider of course.

 
Wow - lots of work on quarter panel areas going on. Nice jobs, everybody!

Here's mine for today. Got the left quarter section opened up, cut out the bad spots of the outer wheelhouse, and trimmed up the new section to replace the bad spots of the 'house.

Here's where the Sharpie has the new replacement panel coming down, along with my 'gonna be a chicken and only cut off what I need until I find out what's in there' scribbles.

420727_383387648338826_100000027814872_1431403_907036552_n.jpg


The plasma cutter was kind today. As well as it looks like my rust is staying low - which is really good. Gonna burn through some stripping wheels now.

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After trimming out the rest of the quarter section, I used the Harbor Freight Pneumatic Flange Tool to step the Rustang's sheet metal for the overlap joint (so far, this replacement tool seems to be holding together - Yay!). Also cleaned up the edges of the tail light panel, and trimmed the new outer wheelhouse to replace the bad stuff.

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Tomorrow, I gotta do some more cleaning, apply some more Rust Bullet in those areas I'll never see again, fine tune the new wheelhouse section and weld it on, fit the quarter panel section and trunk drop-off, and maybe have it all back together at the end of the day (but if not, no worries because I'm not in THAT much of a rush).

 
Today, I got the outer wheelhouse section trimmed up and welded in with the trunk drop-off (after test-fitting the quarter section). Also put on some seam sealer and Rust Bullet'd everything I could get to (since I'll never see it again once the new metal goes on). Just gotta figure out how to get the bottom edge fastened to the top of the rocker panel, since I won't be able to get the welder in there once the panel's in place.

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419594_384045638273027_100000027814872_1433622_1923951182_n.jpg


Also got the funk out of the inside of the wheelhouse, and I'll treat it after everything's all back together (next weekend).

 
Just gotta figure out how to get the bottom edge fastened to the top of the rocker panel, since I won't be able to get the welder in there once the panel's in place.
No way around it.In order to weld the bottom edge the qtr glass & mount needs to come out..If you tack it from the outside..Your gonna have to sculpt carve the weld (which will weaken it crack down the road) then make the body line in mud..:s

 
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