What did you do to your car today?

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Good work, Gents!

I had purchased a Moroso overflow bottle, and have been struggling with where to locate it. I had originally thought of the same area as Tony, but I've come to the conclusion that area will be where the Edelbrock pressure tank/HP fuel pump will wind up living. I'll probably wind up sticking it to the side of the driver side headlight box or something similar.

Although Greg's and your solutions for the speakers is very cool, that is one of the reasons I'm SO glad I have a fixed rear seat with a proper package tray. :whistling: ;)

 
Thanks for posting a picture with that!!! I've been looking for something for my 73. These were a dealer only item and I was hoping to find an original(used/NOS) but no such luck.

This one looks good.

Tim

This is my second try for a radiator coolant overflow tank installation. This one fits very well and I think it is a keeper. It fits in front of the windshield wiper fluid tank, just behind the A/C hose. Right now it is lightly wedged in place between the A/C hose and apron. Eventually you could use a strap to hold it in place. The tank is a Dorman's #603-506. The tank looks pretty good and it fits like a glove.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Radiator overhaul...

My original to the car D1ZE EA rad was in dire need of refurbishment... As the years have passed, finding a shop that can properly recore these has become very difficult, in fact, probably impossible today in our area. This could also have something to do with environmental protection laws when considering the processes used at the old rad repair shops back in the day.

As I am trying to keep the car very original... the top tank on these rads incorporate the factory engineering part # and had to be in place on the refurbished rad. You can open the wallet starting here...

In the end, I wound up sending the rad out to become new again... I sent it to an actual radiator manufacture company whom was able to remove my top and bottom rails and the two side tanks and build me a new rad around a completely new core assembly. Awesome final product, but it came at a very high price... An aluminum replacement rad would have only cost half as much.

A few shots of the rad after getting it back from the mfr. and my stripping the temporary paint off and re-doing this process properly. Will look nice at the front of the car, oh wait, the AC condenser hides most of it anyway... Oh well, makes me feel better.

Rad restoration (2).jpg

Rad restoration2 (2).jpg

Rad restoration3 (2).jpg

Rad restoration4 (2).jpg

 
Picked up my Mustang from the bodyshop today. All straight and ready for me to change the quater panel, trunk floor, tail light panel, rear tank mount, tank.. oh, I'm getting wore out just thiking about it. Going to have to wait awhile anyway as we just got hit with a bunch of the white stuff. Cold out there.

 
Started disassembly for pulling the motor. Made a good bit a progress for only about an hour including tagging all the bolts. Just need to schedule a few friends over this weekend to remove the hood and pull the motor. Should be able to get everything ready to go by tonight.

Question.... I am trying to decide if I should pull motor and trans together or just the motor? The trans is a T5 and does not need pulled for any reason, it was just rebuilt and installed. I figure it will be easier to get the motor out by itself but stabbing it back in would be easier with the trans.

Thoughts?

Motor.jpg

 
Personally, I don't like pulling the engine and tranny out together. It puts a lot of extra weight hanging out beyond the 'sweet spot' of the hoist [usually]. That can equate to dings, dents, scratches, and other mishaps when swinging that much weight in and out of the car - along with needing more height than the hoist might be capable of. Not to mention having to uninstall/remove the various sundries associated with the transmission along with the engine work.

Stabbing the pilot bearing/bushing with the tranny still in the car can be tricky. I think the key there is to support the tranny (maybe with a floor jack under the loosened crossmember to offer some transmission wiggle), and make sure you have the right clutch alignment tool.

Again, that's just me. Lots of guys have had success pulling them together, and that's what works best for them.

Good luck!

 
Personally, I don't like pulling the engine and tranny out together. It puts a lot of extra weight hanging out beyond the 'sweet spot' of the hoist [usually]. That can equate to dings, dents, scratches, and other mishaps when swinging that much weight in and out of the car - along with needing more height than the hoist might be capable of. Not to mention having to uninstall/remove the various sundries associated with the transmission along with the engine work.

Stabbing the pilot bearing/bushing with the tranny still in the car can be tricky. I think the key there is to support the tranny (maybe with a floor jack under the loosened crossmember to offer some transmission wiggle), and make sure you have the right clutch alignment tool.

Again, that's just me. Lots of guys have had success pulling them together, and that's what works best for them.

Good luck!
Click to expand...
That is exactly the route I was hoping to go for the exact reasons I wanted to go that way. Thanks for the conformation! I do have a low profile trans jack I can use to support the trans (wish I had that when I did the FMX to T5 swap, but hey it was after the fact that someone asked if I wanted it so I said sure.)

 
Last edited by a moderator:
If it were me, I'd pull the transmission out first (manuals are so easy). Then the bellhousing. Then the engine. Reverse for reassembly. As was mentioned, lining the input shaft up with the transmission in place can be a pain especially if you can't get the right angle.

 
Exhaust Apart? X-Pipe?

Trying to stab the engine back in with the trans in place is a serious headache unless its an automatic.

Either pull the trans or pull the engine with it. If you get the adjustable engine sling its a breeze

with the help of a floor jack under the trans!

Good Luck

Paul

 
Exhaust Apart? X-Pipe?

Trying to stab the engine back in with the trans in place is a serious headache unless its an automatic.

Either pull the trans or pull the engine with it. If you get the adjustable engine sling its a breeze

with the help of a floor jack under the trans!

Good Luck

Paul
Click to expand...
H-pipe but is back a little and modified slightly from stock style to work with my headers so it is directly under the trans. I might be able sneak it backwards behind the H pipe. Would be tight. Also my entire exhaust is welded. Looking back I wish I had gone with band style clamps. I am thinking pull the engine less trans then I will have better access to get the trans out around the exhaust and mate them up before I put it back in. I am also dealing with limited space and hoist that only goes so high.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
It's that time... coupling the rebuilt 429 engine and C-6 for the return to the engine bay in the car... Happy days :cool:

Coupling the 429 & C-6 for installing in vert .jpg

 
Was busy yesterday.

Lifters adjusted

Valley Pan installed

Intake Installed

New oil pump installed

New Oil Pan installed.

Starting to look like an engine again.



 

Similar threads

B
What did you do today instead of working on your Mustang?
28 29 30
Replies
589
Views
60K
Fabrice
Fabrice
W
"What's it worth?" How do you respond?
2 3
Replies
45
Views
8K
Spike Morelli
Spike Morelli

Latest posts

Back
Top