Cool, learn something everyday ::thumb::The non-tach (warning light gauge) PCB appears to be the same as the clock PCB, according to this illustration:
I also visually checked the illustration against my clock cluster and verified the same. The diagram is correct in calling out the 'empty' light sockets on the clock cluster - mine has nothing in those locations.
BTW - the circuit that fried is the open pin next to the #6 pin on the connector (to the right), which traces all the way across to the bottom eyelet in the middle of the warning gauge indicator side (the one almost directly above the bottom light socket). Those open eyelets have the power & ground for the clock poked through and bolted down. It only touched the metal dash for about 5 or 6 seconds, but that's all it needed. It smoked the plastic, but the run kept its integrity - I ohmed it out all the way across and despite getting cooked, it still seems fine. Not taking any chances, though. Plus, the plastic layers were separating (peeling apart) in the area above the main harness connector.
I have 3-4 clock dash units in a bin with separated / delaminated PCB's
I just assumed they would be different - now I'll have to fix them