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If you ordered from CJpony, expect the front bumper bolt eyelets to need a little drilling as well as the rear bumper. I just installed both, the rear is only about 1/8 or so off centered and the front is off right to left as well as as off from front to back. The front passenger side needs to have the bolt eyelets opened up to move the bumper back a little towards the grill. I am still playing with it but looks like I will have to do a little more expanding of the bolt eyelet to make it fit better. I have a 73 by the way. 

Tom
Thanks , do you have any pics of your progress on the bumper since I will be doing this on a 73 as well. 

The bumper is a Mr Mustang unit , not sure if CJ is the same 

 
I got the oil pan and timing cover put back on the engine, a little more cleaning and a bunch of masking and it should be ready for paint. 

The wiring harness is in, the fuse block mounted and wires are sorted out and run to near their desired location. I need to finish a bit of engine compartment cleaning and paint then I can start to finalize things. 

Sorry, not good with taking photos... 

 
Before painting in the engine compartment, wrap aluminum foil around all of your wiring in the engine compartment.  Remove after painting, you'll be glad you did!
Thanks for the tip! As of right now there is no wiring in the engine compartment but I do have brake lines and other small components. 

 
Thank you 
Went to do some bumper adjustment and alignment tonight and after adding the front bumper fillers and then trying to reinstall my lower valance, the valance will not bolt up on the passenger side. I will get pics after taking the bumper back off, installing the valance and then the bumper again. I am thinking that it is just simply moving the bumper over to center it properly. Oh the joy of trying to get good fitment with aftermarket parts, got to love it. Shouldn't be too hard to get it lined up, I just ran out of time and daylight. Sorry for the delay but I want to give you some good pics and let you know everything that I am trying to figure out on this.

Tom

 
Picked up a 71 vert parts car. Omg the rust but much of the vert unique parts are in pretty good shape plus it has the hood and fender rear trim pieces. Will be posting things on here as I begin tearing it down. Some parts I need (interior rear quarter trim panels, a pillar trim, ac ducting and the ws wiper mechanism that sits in the cowl). Grille seems to be unbroken.

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That looks really good, well done  :thumb:  

I like the "cast iron look" and the combination of the colors, the valve covers are spot on  :beer:

Now, please do not add any other massive colors (for example the infamous yellow spark plug wires), black + cast iron + aluminum looks good enough  :thumb:

 
Finally got my a/f and trans temp gauges installed.  Did a dry fit on both sides plus the rear of the shifter and the passenger side worked out best. Really no other place to put them. Easy to see and out of the way even for the passenger.   Need to finish hooking up the exhaust and I will be back on the road again.

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That looks really good, well done  :thumb:  

I like the "cast iron look" and the combination of the colors, the valve covers are spot on  :beer:

Now, please do not add any other massive colors (for example the infamous yellow spark plug wires), black + cast iron + aluminum looks good enough  :thumb:
Thanks Tim!

What??? No lime green plug wires? Yellow would match the car though...  :biggrin:

I still have a lot of black parts to add on the front though. 

 
Went to do some bumper adjustment and alignment tonight and after adding the front bumper fillers and then trying to reinstall my lower valance, the valance will not bolt up on the passenger side. I will get pics after taking the bumper back off, installing the valance and then the bumper again. I am thinking that it is just simply moving the bumper over to center it properly. Oh the joy of trying to get good fitment with aftermarket parts, got to love it. Shouldn't be too hard to get it lined up, I just ran out of time and daylight. Sorry for the delay but I want to give you some good pics and let you know everything that I am trying to figure out on this.

Tom
No worries , I have been doing some other stupid stuff

 
so I know this is going to piss off the purists. 

I have always had a good audio system in my cars, I competed professionally for many years and stock is just not going to do it for me.

With the Stang, we went for an old school approach, USD Waveguides and some 6in Midbass drivers, I wanted to keep the stock look inside with a good amount of attack and volume. We tried to look for options in terms of the 6in drivers. But went totally bonkers 

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so I know this is going to piss off the purists. 

I have always had a good audio system in my cars, I competed professionally for many years and stock is just not going to do it for me.

With the Stang, we went for an old school approach, USD Waveguides and some 6in Midbass drivers, I wanted to keep the stock look inside with a good amount of attack and volume. We tried to look for options in terms of the 6in drivers. But went totally bonkers 
Wow.... I like your idea of locating the bass box protruding into the wheel well space (or whatever that's called). That is a way to fill out that hollow space and no one will notice it.

As a separate but audio related question, what did you do for radio antenna? 

 
Wow.... I like your idea of locating the bass box protruding into the wheel well space (or whatever that's called). That is a way to fill out that hollow space and no one will notice it.

As a separate but audio related question, what did you do for radio antenna? 
I am using an internal Windscreen mount unit , they work well and dont need wires into the fender, The fender hole has been closed off. The boxes are sealed to the body , so fiberglass to the shape of the body then seam sealer around . The backs of them are coated in a waterproof Spectrum coat from Second skin

 
so I know this is going to piss off the purists. 

I have always had a good audio system in my cars, I competed professionally for many years and stock is just not going to do it for me.

With the Stang, we went for an old school approach, USD Waveguides and some 6in Midbass drivers, I wanted to keep the stock look inside with a good amount of attack and volume. We tried to look for options in terms of the 6in drivers. But went totally bonkers 

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I am shocked  :classic_ohmy: :classic_blink:

:biggrin:  

No, not really... Although I am a purist, I like this solution, very smart solved!  :thumb:

 
I am using an internal Windscreen mount unit , they work well and dont need wires into the fender, The fender hole has been closed off. The boxes are sealed to the body , so fiberglass to the shape of the body then seam sealer around . The backs of them are coated in a waterproof Spectrum coat from Second skin
I want to look into one of these. Can you suggest a brand/model? Also, where did you mount it internally?

 
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