What did you do to your car today?

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

Joined
Jul 27, 2021
Messages
737
Reaction score
535
Location
East Texas
My Car
1971 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351 4 speed
I am confused on this. I just updated to a roller cam and everything says I MUST use a steel gear. When are you supposed to use a bronze gear over a steel?. And as a follow on, I took a magnet to my gear to verify it is steel. Is that ok to use on a new cam?

Kcmash
Yes, you got the correct gear if you have a roller cam, steel is what you should be using. I am not too sure why the bronze gears came into use, instead of steel, but by the mid-80's when I was running a speed shop, they were what you sold with a roller cam. Back then, roller cams were used almost exclusively on full on race cars, and the bronze gear was a part that needed to be changed occasionally as it was considered a wear part. Steel being a harder material would slowly wear the softer bronze gear over time and you needed to check it, and when you saw some wear just replace it. The bronze gear was a sacrificial part. You never used a cast iron gear with a roller cam, it would eat up the gear in no time. At some point in the late 80's early 90's, with the advent of the 5.0 "roller cam" engine, you started seeing manufacturers offer steel gears for use with roller cams. The 5.0 "roller" engine had a steel roller cam and a steel gear in it, that basically lasted for the life of the engine. After that you started seeing cam manufacturers offering steel gears for their roller cams, I think that they took a tip from Ford on that, or maybe from Detroit as a whole as everyone started using roller cams in their V8 engines with steel gears in them. The other issue here is that some manufacturers back then stated making steel roller cams with a cast gear in them so that you could use a standard cast iron gear for street cars, no idea if that is even being made today.
 

droptop73

Well-known member
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Jul 5, 2010
Messages
6,541
Reaction score
277
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
My Car
73 Convertible
I was back out in the shop this weekend and started upgrade #2. I'm doing a Cobra brake upgrade using the Mustang Steve brackets. I got started on the rear discs first. The drums are off and the brackets and calipers are mocked in place. I have the drum brake spindles, hubs and rear axles in the molasses bath for a de-rust. They should be ready when I'm back from vacation.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3973.jpg
    IMG_3973.jpg
    110.7 KB · Views: 12
  • IMG_3972.jpg
    IMG_3972.jpg
    87.1 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_3969.jpg
    IMG_3969.jpg
    200.7 KB · Views: 14
Joined
Dec 14, 2017
Messages
110
Reaction score
83
Location
NW Pennsylvania
My Car
1972 Grabber Blue Mach One 351 Q code orig 4 speed. Now: 427C Titus
Yes, I noticed that. I tried to get a good look at the cam gear and block and everything looked ok. Some marring on the boss but nothing to be concerned about. I made sure that the new gear was spaced right and have checked it several times since I replaced it.
I will also do several checks on the Hyperspark after I install it.
👍
 
Joined
Aug 14, 2014
Messages
3,580
Reaction score
539
Location
Madison, WI
My Car
1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/408C stroker
To add more confusion Crane Cams offers the -8 series cams from what they call Street Roller Cam Cores, which are designed to work with "standard" distributor gears. The Cleveland core would be 32-000-8.

This is a good read about distributor gear compatibility:
 
Joined
Sep 8, 2018
Messages
1,673
Reaction score
610
Location
Ross, Ohio
My Car
71 Sportsroof Bright Red.

I am confused on this. I just updated to a roller cam and everything says I MUST use a steel gear. When are you supposed to use a bronze gear over a steel?. And as a follow on, I took a magnet to my gear to verify it is steel. Is that ok to use on a new cam?

Billet solid roller=bronze or MELONIZED steel gear
Hydraulic roller and some non Billet steel solid rollers =steel gears. Go to the comp cams web site gear article. It can be a bit confusing.
Chris
PS-ive been running Solid rollers for 25+ years
Need to use what the cam manufacturer calls for. I have a Howard hydraulic roller cam and it calls for a bronze gear.
 

Johnny57

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 11, 2021
Messages
62
Reaction score
73
Well, not installing today per-se BUT, this did arrive today!
After months.... the kit showed up! WOO HOO!
 

Attachments

  • 248285816_335225265000866_239244626019636345_n.jpg
    248285816_335225265000866_239244626019636345_n.jpg
    115.1 KB · Views: 8
  • 272478682_4829805803777192_8409656854425430338_n.jpg
    272478682_4829805803777192_8409656854425430338_n.jpg
    126.2 KB · Views: 8

skerwath

Active member
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Messages
38
Reaction score
20
Location
Texas
My Car
1971 Mach 1 351C 2V
Got the seat ped out. Hidden spot welds...... I already had the rear pan, but the front has a few holes too. Since CJ is outa stock at the moment for the front, should I just do a one piece ore two? I cleaned up the surface rust under the pedestal, little granular shit left that a bath of phosphoric will take care of. The red stripe is how far up the rear pane comes up, so I have plenty of decent metal to work with. Believe it or not, the toe board and torque box is just surface rust. These pans rusted through due to stock weather strip that stopped worked 30 years ago. I got off easy. I'm fishing for suggestions for those that have been here before. Passenger side rear found Jesus, but not as bad as the driver's pictured. The forward passenger side is just crusty and nothing a flap brush won't take care of. Got my eye on an inexpensive plasma cutter, so I'm not spending 5 years with a cut off wheel in there. My lower back is already mad as hell at me today. Any tips are very appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • IMG-4466.JPG
    IMG-4466.JPG
    3.3 MB · Views: 10
  • IMG-4467.JPG
    IMG-4467.JPG
    3.4 MB · Views: 10
  • IMG-4468.JPG
    IMG-4468.JPG
    3.2 MB · Views: 10

droptop73

Well-known member
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Jul 5, 2010
Messages
6,541
Reaction score
277
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
My Car
73 Convertible
I had new axle bearings pressed on with the rear disc brake brackets. Everything is mounted in place and now to connect the brake lines to the flex lines.
BTW, I found a place that makes custom and reproduction obsolete brake hoses in both rubber and braided stainless. VERY nice stuff and they are located within an hour of me.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4023.jpg
    IMG_4023.jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 6
  • IMG_4025.jpg
    IMG_4025.jpg
    2.4 MB · Views: 6
Last edited:
Joined
Sep 8, 2018
Messages
1,673
Reaction score
610
Location
Ross, Ohio
My Car
71 Sportsroof Bright Red.

Got the seat ped out. Hidden spot welds...... I already had the rear pan, but the front has a few holes too. Since CJ is outa stock at the moment for the front, should I just do a one piece ore two? I cleaned up the surface rust under the pedestal, little granular shit left that a bath of phosphoric will take care of. The red stripe is how far up the rear pane comes up, so I have plenty of decent metal to work with. Believe it or not, the toe board and torque box is just surface rust. These pans rusted through due to stock weather strip that stopped worked 30 years ago. I got off easy. I'm fishing for suggestions for those that have been here before. Passenger side rear found Jesus, but not as bad as the driver's pictured. The forward passenger side is just crusty and nothing a flap brush won't take care of. Got my eye on an inexpensive plasma cutter, so I'm not spending 5 years with a cut off wheel in there. My lower back is already mad as hell at me today. Any tips are very appreciated.
Back brace and some Tylenol. 😁 NPD has some short and full front pans in stock if needed. Looks like your front are ok as you mentioned so I would leave alone unless you like doing the extra work. Hope all goes well replacing the rear.
 

Johnny57

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 11, 2021
Messages
62
Reaction score
73
The blower motor replacement ordeal is over! What a pain. I finally figured out how everything went back together and got the new center console woodgrain bezel installed. It matches the door inserts and goes well with the rest of the black dash. I like it!
 

Attachments

  • 274877063_476534757356782_6331034452541610802_n.jpg
    274877063_476534757356782_6331034452541610802_n.jpg
    100.5 KB · Views: 12
  • 274800872_999946694286483_589468585615938333_n.jpg
    274800872_999946694286483_589468585615938333_n.jpg
    88 KB · Views: 11
Joined
Nov 23, 2010
Messages
7,143
Reaction score
230
Location
Escondido, Ca.
My Car
71 Mustang Mach 1
72 Mustang Mach 1 (parts car)
I made some non-noticeable progress on the brake upgrade. Rear is complete except for the hard brake lines and E-brake cables. On to the front...
I'm glad that I'm not the only one to have non-noticeable progress.
 

droptop73

Well-known member
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Jul 5, 2010
Messages
6,541
Reaction score
277
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
My Car
73 Convertible
Over the weekend I modified the Cobra caliper brackets from Mustang Steve to fit the cadillac Brembo calipers. I fit everything together to make sure it was good. I then swapped the original disc brake spindles for the drum brake spindles. I got it all mocked up on the car. You can see the cadillac lettering comes right off with some scotchbrite. The last photo is with the wheel installed on the rear. Next steps will be getting replacement flex lines for the front and from the chassis to the rear axle then adapt some hard lines for the rear brakes. After that I'll swap the master cylinder and proportioning valve. Adding a line lock and an adjustable prop valve in the rear line.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4037.jpg
    IMG_4037.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 7
  • IMG_4039.jpg
    IMG_4039.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 6
  • IMG_4044.jpg
    IMG_4044.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 7
  • IMG_4042.jpg
    IMG_4042.jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 7

Mjordan

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 31, 2017
Messages
67
Reaction score
10
Location
Wv
My Car
1973 sports roof
1995 gt
Over the weekend I modified the Cobra caliper brackets from Mustang Steve to fit the cadillac Brembo calipers. I fit everything together to make sure it was good. I then swapped the original disc brake spindles for the drum brake spindles. I got it all mocked up on the car. You can see the cadillac lettering comes right off with some scotchbrite. The last photo is with the wheel installed on the rear. Next steps will be getting replacement flex lines for the front and from the chassis to the rear axle then adapt some hard lines for the rear brakes. After that I'll swap the master cylinder and proportioning valve. Adding a line lock and an adjustable prop valve in the rear line.
How well do the wheels clear the bigger brembo calipers vs the cobra calipers?
 

droptop73

Well-known member
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Jul 5, 2010
Messages
6,541
Reaction score
277
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
My Car
73 Convertible
That's a good question... I haven't bolted them up yet but don't anticipate a problem. This is a fairly common mod for the SVT Cobra crowd. I needed to run 1/2" spacers to clear the upper ball joint, that should help.
 

Latest posts

Top