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droptop73

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How well do the wheels clear the bigger brembo calipers vs the cobra calipers?
I threw a wheel on front last night to have a look see. There's a bunch of clearance. I'm pretty happy with the look so far. I'm gonna need longer brake hoses though.
 

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Well, while all you guys in the South (or have a nice warm heated workshop) are working on your cars, I actually got mine fired up for the first time this year. Today was a very nice warm day, 70 degrees f, so I thought "why not fire up the old girl" (car I mean) After reconnecting the battery and checking it all over, I did what I always do, poor 1/4 cup (250 mls) of fresh gas down the vent tube on the primary bowl and it fired right up. After backing out of the garage, I let it idle for 10 mins or so, gave it a quick wipe down with the Californian duster, checked the motor for nasty noises or leaks and put her back to bed till all the salt gets washed off the roads, hopefully in 3-4 weeks at most.
The only bad thing I found was the PS pump has sprung a leak on the front seal, so a job that will need to be done before hitting the road. Other than that, I'll just need to take out a mortgage to buy gas, currently at about $7.30 Cdn/ US gallon for premium. Hopefully that will drop soon.
 

Sheriff41

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I installed the Boss valve covers I bought from Ford back in the early 80s. I guess I might be a procrastinator.
 

droptop73

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I'm getting closer on the brake upgrade. I completed final assembly of the brakes, packed the bearings and mounted the calipers. Here are a couple pics of the modified Mustang Steve brackets. The original style brake hoses were not going to work so I called Nick at Brake Hoses Unlimited. Since he is not too far from me I drove over to his place and he made up some custom brake hoses to suit my needs. He's a great guy and builds the hoses to order. While I was there I had him make up a replacement rear line. He made mine using black coated braided stainless. The front brakes are complete now it's time to move on to the master cylinder and hard lines... wish me luck!! LOL!! BTW, if anyone in the lower Michigan area is looking for parts to upgrade their drum brake car to OEM discs... let me know I want to re-home my old parts. They are very serviceable with many newer parts.
 

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Sheriff41

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I'm getting closer on the brake upgrade. I completed final assembly of the brakes, packed the bearings and mounted the calipers. Here are a couple pics of the modified Mustang Steve brackets. The original style brake hoses were not going to work so I called Nick at Brake Hoses Unlimited. Since he is not too far from me I drove over to his place and he made up some custom brake hoses to suit my needs. He's a great guy and builds the hoses to order. While I was there I had him make up a replacement rear line. He made mine using black coated braided stainless. The front brakes are complete now it's time to move on to the master cylinder and hard lines... wish me luck!! LOL!! BTW, if anyone in the lower Michigan area is looking for parts to upgrade their drum brake car to OEM discs... let me know I want to re-home my old parts. They are very serviceable with many newer parts.
Coming along nicely! I've rounded up all the parts except the spindles and hubs. Spindles seem to be more available than the hubs. How did you source yours?
 

droptop73

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I found mine from a local guy parting out an un-savable car and had other parts listed on Marketplace. I picked up the drum brake spindles and hubs together along with a pair of taillights. Have you checked with Don at Ohio Mustang or Mike at Motor City Mustang? They both sell used parts as well as Don sells new.
 
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Coming along nicely! I've rounded up all the parts except the spindles and hubs. Spindles seem to be more available than the hubs. How did you source yours?
I am just replacing my disc spindles for new ones. Unfortunately, the old ones allowed some end play of the outer bearing. The end play was reasonable, but not recommended for cars used in track. Mine will be available once I am done swapping the spindles. PM if interested.
 

Sheriff41

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I am just replacing my disc spindles for new ones. Unfortunately, the old ones allowed some end play of the outer bearing. The end play was reasonable, but not recommended for cars used in track. Mine will be available once I am done swapping the spindles. PM if interested.
Thanks Tony. I have the stock disc brakes on my car. The Mustang Steve setup uses drum brake spindles and hubs, along with Ford SVT brake parts. The 70-73 drum spindles use larger bearings than the earlier year Mustangs, though the earlier spindles would work. I'm searching for the 70-73 parts.
 
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Thanks Tony. I have the stock disc brakes on my car. The Mustang Steve setup uses drum brake spindles and hubs, along with Ford SVT brake parts. The 70-73 drum spindles use larger bearings than the earlier year Mustangs, though the earlier spindles would work. I'm searching for the 70-73 parts.
BTW, mine are from my 71 so they are the larger bearing ones, but as you say they are for discs.
 
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BTW, mine are from my 71 so they are the larger bearing ones, but as you say they are for discs.
I wonder why that kit is for drum spindles only. They could make the bracket drilled for either discs or drums, just like the Wilwood brackets (see diagram below). Obviously, I am not suggesting someone goes out and just drill the holes without previous testing, but Wilwood's are aluminums as well so it should work. Mustang Steve's look actually thicker than the Wilwood, but I don't know if they use the same material grade. It shouldn't be too difficult to machine the bracket with the disc hole pattern and make it out of steel for added strength just in case.


Capture.JPG nly. It should work for discs with an extra hole
 

droptop73

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I wonder why that kit is for drum spindles only. They could make the bracket drilled for either discs or drums, just like the Wilwood brackets (see diagram below). Obviously, I am not suggesting someone goes out and just drill the holes without previous testing, but Wilwood's are aluminums as well so it should work. Mustang Steve's look actually thicker than the Wilwood, but I don't know if they use the same material grade. It shouldn't be too difficult to machine the bracket with the disc hole pattern and make it out of steel for added strength just in case. It should work for discs with an extra hole
The Mustang Steve brackets are 3/8" thick steel. I really like the idea of 4 - 3/8" bolts. The 3 bolts on the disc spindle are 1/4" or 5/16" and are originally only used to hold the factory splash shield. But then again, I tend to over-build EVERYTHING...
 
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You my already be aware of this, but in case you are not (or others reading this thread), it bear bringing this forth. The Master Cylinder (MC) for disc brakes is not the same as the MC for drum brakes, whether front disc or all disc. The first difference is the bore size of the MC is not always the same between the drum and disc brake systems. Second, the MC brake fluid reservoir chamber is larger for the disc brakes as the volume of brake fluid needed in the disc calipers is much greater than the volume of brake fluid in drum brake wheel cylinders. And most arguably the important difference is the Residual Pressure Check Valve (RPCV) needed for drum brake hydraulic fluid outlet(s) in the MC is NOT needed or wanted for disc brakes. Finally, never add any petroleum fluids to the brake system's hydraulic fluid, as it will cause the rubber seals and hoses to swell, requiring all hydraulic parts to be rebuilt or replaced. An aside, never let brake fluid get on painted surfaces, as it is an excellent paint remover.

If a brake system has its front drum brakes upgraded you need to make certain to remove the RPCV, otherwise the disc pad will be constantly dragging on the discs under pressure, which overheats the pads and rotor, causes excess wear of the pads, causes warping of the rotors, and impedes performance of the vehicle as there is a constant drag of the brake pads under pressure 100% of the time. If in doubt, replace the MC. The RPCV units are installed under the brass seat(s) of the brake fluid outlet port(s) if it/they are present. They are the little "flapper valves" made of rubber. If you have drum brakes the RPCV is critically needed.

Also, use only DOT2 or DOT3 brake fluid. Do not mix newer silicone based brake fluid with older DOT2 or DOT3 fluid. Never use DOT1 fluid as its boiling point is too low for use with disc brake systems.

Feel free to look at the attached file for more info, to include a graphics showing the correct orientation of the single piston brake calipers to ensure the brake system can be properly bled. If the calipers are installed on the incorrect side of the vehicle they will "fit," but you will never be able to bleed all the air from the calipers, and the brake pedal will feel mushy.
 

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The Mustang Steve brackets are 3/8" thick steel. I really like the idea of 4 - 3/8" bolts. The 3 bolts on the disc spindle are 1/4" or 5/16" and are originally only used to hold the factory splash shield. But then again, I tend to over-build EVERYTHING...
Good point Jeff. I forgot to say that Wilwood makes you redrill and retap those holes for 3/8-24.
Capture.JPG
 
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You my already be aware of this, but in case you are not (or others reading this thread), it bear bringing this forth. The Master Cylinder (MC) for disc brakes is not the same as the MC for drum brakes, whether front disc or all disc. The first difference is the bore size of the MC is not always the same between the drum and disc brake systems. Second, the MC brake fluid reservoir chamber is larger for the disc brakes as the volume of brake fluid needed in the disc calipers is much greater than the volume of brake fluid in drum brake wheel cylinders. And most arguably the important difference is the Residual Pressure Check Valve (RPCV) needed for drum brake hydraulic fluid outlet(s) in the MC is NOT needed or wanted for disc brakes. Finally, never add any petroleum fluids to the brake system's hydraulic fluid, as it will cause the rubber seals and hoses to swell, requiring all hydraulic parts to be rebuilt or replaced. An aside, never let brake fluid get on painted surfaces, as it is an excellent paint remover.

If a brake system has its front drum brakes upgraded you need to make certain to remove the RPCV, otherwise the disc pad will be constantly dragging on the discs under pressure, which overheats the pads and rotor, causes excess wear of the pads, causes warping of the rotors, and impedes performance of the vehicle as there is a constant drag of the brake pads under pressure 100% of the time. If in doubt, replace the MC. The RPCV units are installed under the brass seat(s) of the brake fluid outlet port(s) if it/they are present. They are the little "flapper valves" made of rubber. If you have drum brakes the RPCV is critically needed.

Also, use only DOT2 or DOT3 brake fluid. Do not mix newer silicone based brake fluid with older DOT2 or DOT3 fluid. Never use DOT1 fluid as its boiling point is too low for use with disc brake systems.

Feel free to look at the attached file for more info, to include a graphics showing the correct orientation of the single piston brake calipers to ensure the brake system can be properly bled. If the calipers are installed on the incorrect side of the vehicle they will "fit," but you will never be able to bleed all the air from the calipers, and the brake pedal will feel mushy.
The master cylinders are different from drum to disc but the drum brake master can be used. I swapped out my front drum brakes over 10 years ago with factory discs up front and never changed anything else. They have been working fine for probably 15,000 miles or more with same pads. I have the proper under dash bracket, pedal, rebuilt master cylinder, and rebuilt booster ready to go but never got around to installing it. But my manual disc brakes work pretty good.
 

droptop73

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You my already be aware of this, but in case you are not (or others reading this thread), it bear bringing this forth. The Master Cylinder (MC) for disc brakes is not the same as the MC for drum brakes, whether front disc or all disc. The first difference is the bore size of the MC is not always the same between the drum and disc brake systems. Second, the MC brake fluid reservoir chamber is larger for the disc brakes as the volume of brake fluid needed in the disc calipers is much greater than the volume of brake fluid in drum brake wheel cylinders. And most arguably the important difference is the Residual Pressure Check Valve (RPCV) needed for drum brake hydraulic fluid outlet(s) in the MC is NOT needed or wanted for disc brakes. Finally, never add any petroleum fluids to the brake system's hydraulic fluid, as it will cause the rubber seals and hoses to swell, requiring all hydraulic parts to be rebuilt or replaced. An aside, never let brake fluid get on painted surfaces, as it is an excellent paint remover.

If a brake system has its front drum brakes upgraded you need to make certain to remove the RPCV, otherwise the disc pad will be constantly dragging on the discs under pressure, which overheats the pads and rotor, causes excess wear of the pads, causes warping of the rotors, and impedes performance of the vehicle as there is a constant drag of the brake pads under pressure 100% of the time. If in doubt, replace the MC. The RPCV units are installed under the brass seat(s) of the brake fluid outlet port(s) if it/they are present. They are the little "flapper valves" made of rubber. If you have drum brakes the RPCV is critically needed.

Also, use only DOT2 or DOT3 brake fluid. Do not mix newer silicone based brake fluid with older DOT2 or DOT3 fluid. Never use DOT1 fluid as its boiling point is too low for use with disc brake systems.

Feel free to look at the attached file for more info, to include a graphics showing the correct orientation of the single piston brake calipers to ensure the brake system can be properly bled. If the calipers are installed on the incorrect side of the vehicle they will "fit," but you will never be able to bleed all the air from the calipers, and the brake pedal will feel mushy.
Thanks for the insight Gil. I haven't got to the master cylinder part of the upgrade yet. I have a 1" bore aluminum and plastic cylinder that matches up with the Cobra brakes the upgrade is based on. Part of it will be a bit unconventional as I'm using a "roll control" in the front partly as a tee and an adjustable valve for the rear with no combination valve as I didn't rewire the brake warning light.
 

Bobby

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I'm trying to have my 393C stroker dyno'd. I had a local machine shop bore and deck the block and do the assembly since I have zero experience building a hot rod engine from scratch. Anyway, I've had my engine back for two weeks but, as with anything having to do with my Mach 1, its a waiting game. I visited a machine shop in Pasadena, TX that has a dyno but am waiting for an opening in his schedule to get'r done. If and when it's done.......if, if , if......I'll drop in my new stroker with an AOD in with the help of a couple of friends. The way gas prices are going I may not be able to afford to drive it! I'll sure look good setting in my Mach 1.....in my garage!!!!
 
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73StangJK

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I haven't done anything to my Stang today but I have thought about it a lot and what if I were to convert it to an electric power steering pump?
 
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