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Tried to establish a selling price to end my pain!!!

Seriously I cleaned brake lamp contacts and replaced bulbs, disconnected the PMGR starter to avoid problems. Installed the power window relay on the Shock tower per the factory assembly manual, then controlled my temper as I found that the NEW brake proportioning valve from Scott Drake is leaking!!!!!

WTF!!!! I had my original leak, so I rebuilt with a kit only to have it leak, so I replace it with a brand new Scott Drake unit to avoid my assembly errors and the SOB Leaks on me. Right out that bottom bolt. Any suggestions??

kcmash
I feel you pain, I went through the same type of thing this spring. I had leaks out of absolutely everything. I had a rocker fail. Milky oil from condensation. Starter that was hanging up and stealing power from the coil causing the engine to die after a second or two. Failed brake booster. I'm sure there was more but I can't even remember anymore.

Midlife gave you the best advice. Walk away (or drink) for a bit and then tackle it form a different angle.

 
You can try untightening and then retightening the bolt. However, the bottom bolt relies on an oring so maybe the oring was not properly seated or got pinched. If the above doesnt work you may need to replace the oring. Unfortunately, it is messy since it is the bottom bolt.

1971 M-code Mach 1

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I vacuumed out the interior.

I am a member of a local Jeep club. On the second Wednesday of each month we have a meet and greet at a local pizza place. Most everyone brings their Jeep.

This Wednesday we are doing it a little different. One of the ladies rolled her Jeep on an annual run. She's okay but the jeep is not. So everyone is going to show up this Wednesday without their Jeep. Needless to say, it's a great time to pull in with the old Mustang. Jeep folks love old cars so it should be fun.

 
I am working on installing my new Pioneer Sound system along with Pioneer 480 Watt Power amp. I have created a wood panel to mount into the open area between the back seat and the trunk area.

Also, preparing to install my third Brake light kit.

50n0n5.jpg


Source: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html

mustang7173

 
I am working on installing my new Pioneer Sound system along with Pioneer 480 Watt Power amp. I have created a wood panel to mount into the open area between the back seat and the trunk area.

Also, preparing to install my third Brake light kit.

50n0n5.jpg


Source: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html

mustang7173

You scared me. Before I read the post I saw the picture and at first thought you were going to put lights in your hood openings!

 
Is there a good way to determine if the axels seals and bearing are good or need replaced? They were not leaking and not making any noise prior to removal. Just done want to put back together and have to take back apart.
They are cheap so if you don't know the age or condition replace them. Be sure to get some that knows how to press the new one's on if they do not press by the inner race can damage new bearing. They also need the correct clamp to go around the old bearing to prevent the thing from exploding. If you try to press off just using the outer race to support they can shatter and fly like a grenade.

I have cut them off with torch just getting close to axle then toss in cold water and they will break and then fall off. The steel ring that goes on after the bearing is same way. If not experienced with torch don't do it. A good parts house should have a press.

A long piece of pipe that fits over the axle and hits only the inner race can be used in a jam to push the bearing and ring on.
Good call. They are fairly inexpensive. My local O'Reilly's stocks them from National. Anyone have experience with this brand of bearing and seal?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BCA0/RW207CCRA/03336.oap?year=1973&make=Ford&model=Mustang&vi=5139472&ck=Search_C0055_5139472_796&pt=C0055&ppt=C0337

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BCA0/9569S/03411.oap?year=1973&make=Ford&model=Mustang&vi=5139472&ck=Search_C0055_5139472_796&pt=C0055&ppt=C0337

 
Is there a good way to determine if the axels seals and bearing are good or need replaced? They were not leaking and not making any noise prior to removal. Just done want to put back together and have to take back apart.
They are cheap so if you don't know the age or condition replace them. Be sure to get some that knows how to press the new one's on if they do not press by the inner race can damage new bearing. They also need the correct clamp to go around the old bearing to prevent the thing from exploding. If you try to press off just using the outer race to support they can shatter and fly like a grenade.

I have cut them off with torch just getting close to axle then toss in cold water and they will break and then fall off. The steel ring that goes on after the bearing is same way. If not experienced with torch don't do it. A good parts house should have a press.

A long piece of pipe that fits over the axle and hits only the inner race can be used in a jam to push the bearing and ring on.
Good call. They are fairly inexpensive. My local O'Reilly's stocks them from National. Anyone have experience with this brand of bearing and seal?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BCA0/RW207CCRA/03336.oap?year=1973&make=Ford&model=Mustang&vi=5139472&ck=Search_C0055_5139472_796&pt=C0055&ppt=C0337

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BCA0/9569S/03411.oap?year=1973&make=Ford&model=Mustang&vi=5139472&ck=Search_C0055_5139472_796&pt=C0055&ppt=C0337
Pretty sure they are all made off shore. There are still some Timken bearings made here but not many. You can also check at a bearing distributor but you need the number for the bearing and they probably will not include the locking ring either. I use to get the transmission bearings at Bearing Distributor or much less that at parts house or Ford. Times have changed.

 
will e

That made me chuckle!

mustang7173

I am working on installing my new Pioneer Sound system along with Pioneer 480 Watt Power amp. I have created a wood panel to mount into the open area between the back seat and the trunk area.

Also, preparing to install my third Brake light kit.

50n0n5.jpg


Source: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html

mustang7173

You scared me. Before I read the post I saw the picture and at first thought you were going to put lights in your hood openings!
 
Replaced both headlights as the driver´s side one had a hole caused by some road debris. Looks much better with new lenses and I guess it will increase visibility at night.

 
Well again not working on the car but working on garage. I got most of the work room framed in and wiring ran. I had the two post lift on my trailer and needed to unload, 1,600+ lbs,. No lift or help humm how do I do this. I backed the trailer into the garage and started taking everything off that I could and got down to the two main posts still heavy. I could barely lift one end. So I set up blocks and ended up getting everything lifted by hand enough to get the trailer out. Went and got an engine hoist and then picked the columns up and got to the floor. Now to figure out how to stand them up. I still need that Chinese gal to massage my sore muscles at night, lol. Maybe in a month they will pass the inspection and I can move cars in for the winter. When you are 68 and have to do everything to save bucks it takes time.

 
David:

When I unloaded my lift (by myself), I used my engine hoist and grabbed the upright beam as close to the center of gravity as I could. I then moved it around such that when I raised the hoist, I could lower the foot down on the floor about where I wanted it and could upright the post using the engine hoist as a lever point. Piece of cake!

 
David:

When I unloaded my lift (by myself), I used my engine hoist and grabbed the upright beam as close to the center of gravity as I could. I then moved it around such that when I raised the hoist, I could lower the foot down on the floor about where I wanted it and could upright the post using the engine hoist as a lever point. Piece of cake!
Was going to play with it tomorrow to see what I could do. I have also just ran ad on craigslist and got several strong backs quick to lift things. That is how I got the walls up paid $30.00 and done.

Got to keep moving paying too much for storage each month ticks by.

 
Ok today I got all the framing done on the work room. Cannot call it a paint room or EPA has to come and test. My pup supervised and passed all inspections. She played with toad frog for hours. I ran the wire for the outlets and went to order the floor trusses to go overhead but the only guy that can order is on vacation. My son will never figure out what all the hoard parts are but they are going to be on computer with location and what it is for. A 12 hour day is tough for a 68 year old guy. Got to keep moving or it won't get done. Doing the room with sound proof construction where no inside wall touches any outside wall. Ends up being 12" centers on studs so storage overhead is not an issue. That darn tool & die maker gene keeps kicking in. My son will have the best garage when I am gone and might be tomorrow I am so tired.

100_2648.JPG

 
David:

When I unloaded my lift (by myself), I used my engine hoist and grabbed the upright beam as close to the center of gravity as I could. I then moved it around such that when I raised the hoist, I could lower the foot down on the floor about where I wanted it and could upright the post using the engine hoist as a lever point. Piece of cake!
Was going to play with it tomorrow to see what I could do. I have also just ran ad on craigslist and got several strong backs quick to lift things. That is how I got the walls up paid $30.00 and done.

Got to keep moving paying too much for storage each month ticks by.
A local dealership gave me the contact information of the company that services their lifts. They charged $500 to come out and set up my lift. With 3 guys and the right equipment it took them 3 hours. They also looked it over and installed 2 new seals while it was apart. Best $500 I ever spent. Just a thought.

At 94 I do not lift anything much anymore.

- Paul of MO

 
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