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The last item on my full "make over" of my 73 Mach 1. More to come elsewhere.

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Changed the oil on the recently rebuilt 351C from Amsoil Signature series 5w-30 to Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 10w-50.

I'm a firm believer in modern synthetics after reading 540rat's oil test blog.

However with the 5w-30 pressure was dropping right off when it got hot. The issue is that I am using a stock pump & have worn lifter bores. I should really have had them sleeved. I didn't put in the hv pump I have as previously it used to empty the sump into the valve covers. So I put the 10w-50 in as a temporary crutch.

Went for a half hour cruise around & it's a lot better, lowest oil pressure I saw was 40psi at idle & low speed cruise. The longer cammed soild lifter 351C with aluminium flywheel drives very differently to the short cammed 429 I used to have in the car. Only gone to 3500 rpm so far, cam is good for 6500.

 
Installed the new Nasa hood that I got from Mustangs Unlimited a month or so ago, then put on the new to me, almost rust free drivers door and started prepping the passenger door by sanding it down, checking for hidden rust and such. Found out that the driver door must have had the window replaced at some point because the window mount part had bolts instead of rivets. Made taking the guts out of the door easier to clean and add some rust prevention to the inside of the door. The passenger door window still has the rivets, will try to add some rust prevention/inhibitor as best as I can, really don't want to drill those rivets out. Once both doors are hung and aligned, I will install the fenders and start the hood and fender alignment hopefully this week sometimes.

Tom

 
Swapping in the 408w and tremec to start fitting up headers, intake, and accessories.







 
Well it was Sunday, and it was my project car, not my Mustang, but I pulled the body off the frame of my Model A Tudor andstripped the frame and put it behind the shop and set the body on the custom frame. Now to disassemble my C-4 Donor vette for some suspension pieces . . .

 
Installed the new Nasa hood that I got from Mustangs Unlimited a month or so ago, then put on the new to me, almost rust free drivers door and started prepping the passenger door by sanding it down, checking for hidden rust and such. Found out that the driver door must have had the window replaced at some point because the window mount part had bolts instead of rivets. Made taking the guts out of the door easier to clean and add some rust prevention to the inside of the door. The passenger door window still has the rivets, will try to add some rust prevention/inhibitor as best as I can, really don't want to drill those rivets out.  Once both doors are hung and aligned, I will install the fenders and start the hood and fender alignment hopefully this week sometimes.

Tom
I have read about the rivets in the window and did not have that issue. I took windows out of two 72 verts and my 73 also and did not remove the plastic parts. There is a wide place they will come out through or they did for me.

 
Installed the new Nasa hood that I got from Mustangs Unlimited a month or so ago, then put on the new to me, almost rust free drivers door and started prepping the passenger door by sanding it down, checking for hidden rust and such. Found out that the driver door must have had the window replaced at some point because the window mount part had bolts instead of rivets. Made taking the guts out of the door easier to clean and add some rust prevention to the inside of the door. The passenger door window still has the rivets, will try to add some rust prevention/inhibitor as best as I can, really don't want to drill those rivets out.  Once both doors are hung and aligned, I will install the fenders and start the hood and fender alignment hopefully this week sometimes.

Tom
I have read about the rivets in the window and did not have that issue. I took windows out of two 72 verts and my 73 also and did not remove the plastic parts. There is a wide place they will come out through or they did for me.
You can't get the window out with the metal mounting bracket on it ... it is riveted to the glass in 73

 
Installed the new Nasa hood that I got from Mustangs Unlimited a month or so ago, then put on the new to me, almost rust free drivers door and started prepping the passenger door by sanding it down, checking for hidden rust and such. Found out that the driver door must have had the window replaced at some point because the window mount part had bolts instead of rivets. Made taking the guts out of the door easier to clean and add some rust prevention to the inside of the door. The passenger door window still has the rivets, will try to add some rust prevention/inhibitor as best as I can, really don't want to drill those rivets out.  Once both doors are hung and aligned, I will install the fenders and start the hood and fender alignment hopefully this week sometimes.

Tom
I have read about the rivets in the window and did not have that issue. I took windows out of two 72 verts and my 73 also and did not remove the plastic parts. There is a wide place they will come out through or they did for me.
You can't get the window out with the metal mounting bracket on it ... it is riveted to the glass in 73
Don, I must disagree! I made mention in an older post on how to get it out and back in, with the bracket on, on a 73.

 
Somehow I did three. If I remember correct I tilted the window and there is a wide placde to the front of the door that the glass would come out through. I cannot imagine Ford designing an assembly that would have to be done inside the door going down the line. Not enough time. It would have to just drop in already assembled to keep the line moving.

One of the cars was a 72 that had PW then there was the yellow 73 and the crashed 72 I parted out.

Will have to look today in garage and see if I can get a pic or two. I have door shells and windows sitting in garage.

 
I have read about the rivets in the window and did not have that issue. I took windows out of two 72 verts and my 73 also and did not remove the plastic parts. There is a wide place they will come out through or they did for me.
You can't get the window out with the metal mounting bracket on it ... it is riveted to the glass in 73
Don, I must disagree! I made mention in an older post on how to get it out and back in, with the bracket on, on a 73.
Don cannot be wrong; he is the god of 7123's.  Think of his reputation!  His business!  His good name!  OMG!  The world is ending as we know it!

Excuse me while I curl up in a fetal position for the next few days....OMG!

 
Had the car up on a ramp and cleaned the winter cobwebs away. Then got under the hood and cleaned the engine bay. Started first turn of the key and took the car out for the first time this year. Forgot how big the smile is whenever i start the car up and drive

 
Got the 351C assembled, timed, running! Sounds like a beast without an exhaust!

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 
Replaced fuel pump  :cool: - for one that doesn't leak ... BTW fuel is not a good eyewash ... When I was under the gorgeous thing I got a shower of the stuff squirted into my eye... and became a Molotov cocktail  :chin:

Do you know what makes me more happy... I didn't have to walk up with a laptop and a dongle to find that out.... cos the quad downdraft Edlebrock doesn't have an electronic ECU  :mad:  I hate it when my Jagwaaar XK8 throws up a st00pid code ...like its some MI6 secret... or a  murder mystery that has to be solved.. "AARRRGH "!

then I cleaned the interior from top to bottom and used scratch remover on the glass. 

then I drove the *** off him. 



 
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Took a quick trip to a small lube shop to get a safety inspection - passed, of course.  The guys wanted to talk about the car more than anything, though.

 
I got the mustang towed from the mechanic shop today and started looking into replacing relays and chewed up wires above the glove box

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