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Ordered my dual exhaust system from Summit yesterday, got it today. Great shipping time. I had thought about driving down to Atlanta yesterday but got tied up with Mother's Day so I ordered it around noon time. I got this kit:

Summit Racing SUM-680111 - Summit Racing™ Header-Back Dual Exhaust Systems​

I installed the primary pipe to my heads just now and it looks like the amount I have to cut off will be enough for me to use for the H pipe since the kit did not come with one. The bends and fitment looked great with my headers. This set will not work with headers that have an outlet that is not parallel with the driveshaft. I will probably install it with clamps, make sure it fits well, then remove it all for the welding part.

Anyone have good suggestions for the tailpipes? Are the tailpipes chrome and by the way, how far out of the valence should they stick? I have the dual exhaust valance and will post thoughts on the fitment once I get further along in the install.

Tom
 
Ordered my dual exhaust system from Summit yesterday, got it today. Great shipping time. I had thought about driving down to Atlanta yesterday but got tied up with Mother's Day so I ordered it around noon time. I got this kit:

Summit Racing SUM-680111 - Summit Racing™ Header-Back Dual Exhaust Systems​

I installed the primary pipe to my heads just now and it looks like the amount I have to cut off will be enough for me to use for the H pipe since the kit did not come with one. The bends and fitment looked great with my headers. This set will not work with headers that have an outlet that is not parallel with the driveshaft. I will probably install it with clamps, make sure it fits well, then remove it all for the welding part.

Anyone have good suggestions for the tailpipes? Are the tailpipes chrome and by the way, how far out of the valence should they stick? I have the dual exhaust valance and will post thoughts on the fitment once I get further along in the install.

Tom
I have a rear valance in its shipping bag and have not found the urge to prep and paint it and then redo my tailpipes to try to get it to match properly. It was finicky enough to redo my SS exhaust from Sanderson block huggers to an X, to Magnaflows (perfect size) and out to the rear. Regardless, I prefer turndowns but if I did have the cut out I would probably go straight thru and atleast 2 1/2" past to control carbon build up on the paint. Most importantly IMO is to tack it all together with the mounts, etc and on the sprung weight on the entire suspension. We've all seen tips that are "cross eyed" because attention to detail was hurried or not thought out. Not the greatest examples on these pics but..
 

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Still waiting on my 393 Cleveland stroker build. One machine shop botched the build and another took two month to verify bore and re-hone two cylinders. The Eagle rotating assembly was not installed correctly by the original shop and a 3/8 inch spacer was not installed with the crank. The build finally complete, it took another month and a half to get it dyno'd. The dyno was successful with 473HP and 476 pounds of torque. However, the rear main burned up during dyno testing. Why would the rear main burn up? The machine shop is replacing the original Fel-Pro seal with a Mahle seal. The shop will grease it before installation. Once this is complete, I will mate it with a rebuilt AOD tranny and then swap out my old 351C 2V/C6. This process started in February 2021 when I found a 351C CJ block on eBay for $1K. Maybe one day.....
 
....

Anyone have good suggestions for the tailpipes? Are the tailpipes chrome and by the way, how far out of the valence should they stick? I have the dual exhaust valance and will post thoughts on the fitment once I get further along in the install.

Tom
Tom-

Attached video shows stock tips and positioning which I believe to be accurate.
 

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I got my new gas tank temporarily installed last week.
I am finally working on my car after many years of sitting and the rust damage to the trunk panels is serious. So its temporarily installed because I will eventually need to replace those panels. For now though, I will hold the tank and I can get the rest of the car working. Next, I have to decide whether to tackle the brakes, cooling system or rear differential leak. Looking forward to getting it running again before the real work starts (like that rust)!
 
I got my new gas tank temporarily installed last week.
I am finally working on my car after many years of sitting and the rust damage to the trunk panels is serious. So its temporarily installed because I will eventually need to replace those panels. For now though, I will hold the tank and I can get the rest of the car working. Next, I have to decide whether to tackle the brakes, cooling system or rear differential leak. Looking forward to getting it running again before the real work starts (like that rust)!
IMO, making sure she stops when you ask her to would be my first step. Enjoy every minute and dollar you spend making her your vision.
 
I got my new gas tank temporarily installed last week.
I am finally working on my car after many years of sitting and the rust damage to the trunk panels is serious. So its temporarily installed because I will eventually need to replace those panels. For now though, I will hold the tank and I can get the rest of the car working. Next, I have to decide whether to tackle the brakes, cooling system or rear differential leak. Looking forward to getting it running again before the real work starts (like that rust)!
I agree... Stopping then steering before acceleration. Safe is a relative term but making it the best you can before turning it loose on the public is a good plan.
 
Removed the old 351 Cleveland/C6 and dropped in a new 393 Cleveland Stroker. CJ block with 4 bolt mains bored 30 over with Eagle rotating assembly. Canton 6 quart oil pan, Edelbrock Performer intake, TrickFlow 2v aluminum heads, Edelbrock 750 CFM carb, Ansen aluminum valve covers, Comp Cams roller cam assembly with roller lifters and timing assembly and roller rockers. Had it dyno'd to 474 HP and 476 Lbs of torque. Mated it to an AOD tranny. difficulty finding transmission cooling lines stainless braided flex. Lots of work left to do!
 

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Checked the manifold bolts then took it for my first ride over a mile or two did about 10 miles. Still having some issues but will work through it.
 
I scratched the living $**T out of my Mustang today, and I cant even blame the kids...it was 100% my fault. was backing it out of the garage and didn't know that there were a couple of bikes right next to the garage door opening (I put them there a couple days ago). As I was backing out I heard that dreaded scratching sound like the nails on the chalkboard...then it hit me like a thunderbolt...the bikes!!!

I quickly got out and inspected the damage...pretty bad. After a few minutes of colorful language I calmed myself down enough to take the kids for a quick spin to get ice cream.

My car is no show winner, and this paint is over 20 years old...but damnit!!! On the plus side, if bike throwing ever becomes an Olympic sport, I should at least qualify for the team.
 

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Well, I hit a deer last night. Moral of the story, if you're gonna hit a deer make it a small one...

The corral is gone, grille is cracked and the bumper looks to be bent down slightly. I GOT LUCKY!!!
 

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Sorry to hear. Lucky it was a small one and the damage is minimal. I've hit 3 over the years with my pick ups and always seem to big the big bucks costing me a lot of bucks. Lol. Hope that you don't find anything else wrong.
 
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