Gas Tank Sediment

Ok so the Mustang was chugging and stalling and then conking out. Took it to a good local shop they thought it was the carburetor. So they rebuilt the motorcraft. But, and here is the the main jist of the post they said the carburetor bowl was full of a red dusty sediment and that the filter was plugged with it. They said I would need to flush the tank soon to really take care of it. I drove the car home and took it out for a cruise with the little lady. Later on I took it to get some gas and the car conked out I got it to start again and to the gas station put a little gas in it and drove it back home it conked out and died right when I got there. So is it the sediment in the tank plugging up the fuel line? is it the fuel pump?

I wouldn't drive again until you have sorted it out.

Is the condition of the fuel tank unknown?

If, so, my first job would be to take out the fuel sensor, and have a good look inside.

If the fuel tank is showing any sign of rust, take it out and flush the whole system. (Or change it)

Including new filter. I would look at the fuel pump also, it may have a tiny hole in it.

As you start eliminating the unknowns, you'll gain more confidence when something else plays up because you'll know what ISN'T causing the problem.

just my 2c.

Fuel LINE has been replaced but, yes fuel tank condition is unknown also unknown is if the sender assembly has been replaced. Fuel pump condition is also unknown. Do you think the situation is questionable to the point where I should PUSH it into the garage?

Push it in, drive it in, it won't matter. Clean the carby out thoroughly also.

It's not a tricky job to take the tank out...

Gave me an excuse to tidy up and paint other bits and pieces.

You'll find the main long tank bolts are dirty and or rusty... I'd change them also.

I found this link.

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/FuelTankRestoration.html

But I'll probably take mine to a radiator shop then seal it with POR-15.

Ray

I found this link.

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/FuelTankRestoration.html

But I'll probably take mine to a radiator shop then seal it with POR-15.

Ray

Click to expand...

Just buy a new one - they are cheap enough and look great once installed.

http://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=295

http://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=2062

http://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=298

plus a $20 neck seal (out of stock -come on Don!)

Most radiator shop no longer boil out fuel tanks - you can thank the EPA for that.

- Paul

Wish they made a poly tank for our cars. One of the things that I have really found to be nice on modern vehicles. Yes I know not what they came with originally. But anybody who has worked with them in recent years that I know agree they are a big step up from the metal tanks of years ago.

I would advise putting a new tank in as you are starting fresh and know your fuel will end up in the carb clean. It is not a bad job as long as you take your time (I did mine in the middle of winter on my back in the snow)

All,

Let's see, How old are our mustangs? Some 40 years old now! I would state that if your original gas tank is rust free or has no problems, count your blessings. Great advice on replacing the tank. I replaced my on my 1973 when I found bits of rust in the glass style fuel filter. By the way, I do not have that filter anymore since it was glass.

mdan575, agreed.

mustang7173

Without a doubt, no questions asked, put a new gas tank on. I did it on my 1970 and I was freaked out by how much rust was in the tank. She ran much better since then and the fuel filter is clean as a whistle.

Blow the fuel lines out with 2-3 cans of brake fluid. You MAY want to replace your fuel pump since they are $25 as well.

You can put one on by yourself in a few hours max.

I like the way we love spending other peoples money!

We've gone from an engine missing at idle to:

New gas tank

Por15 the tank for protection

Clean out lines with break fluid

Clean out carby thoroughly (I'd dismantle personally)

buy new fuel pump

Did I miss anything? Hehe

Oh shoot, I forgot until Jim mentioned it. While you're at it, you might as well replace your intake manifold with an Edelbrock Performer RPM and you'll need a new carb too so go with an Edelbrock 500 or 600 cfm. I'm just sayin'

What about the dirty fuel leaving some nasty carbon deposits on the pistons! What say we play it safe and .....

Yeah let me get right on all that! Seriously guys Im going to flush and boil the tank and the carb was just cleaned and had a rebuild with kit, I cant see doing that again unless absolutely necessary.

I just installed a new tank in my car a few days ago. It was very easy to do and the cost was reasonable, should never have to worry about it again.

Having a 40+ year old tank boiled out and used sounds kinda sketchy.

If you have a good fuel filter there's a chance the carb will be OK, even though fuel filters let some very fine particles through.

I agree with other posters, replace the tank. Boiling it out may boil one of the rust spots all of the way through, then you'll be out the boil-out cost, plus the new tank.

I just installed a new tank in my car a few days ago. It was very easy to do and the cost was reasonable, should never have to worry about it again.

Having a 40+ year old tank boiled out and used sounds kinda sketchy.

Click to expand...

I agree, I had a few tanks boiled out and treated in other vintage cars and it was never as good as getting a new tank.

If you check around you can probably find a good deal new, I got mine off ebay brand new and it was $95 with free shipping

Had a new tank installed,cleaned out the carb, new filter and things seem to be all good. Thanks y'all it really is great t o get some feedback from the group here.

All,

Here is some good information about how the gas tanks use industry standard Ni-Terne steel.

Definition - What does Terne mean?

Terne is traditionally an alloy of lead and tin, typically in a ratio of four-to-one, that is used as a coating in producing terneplate. In recent years, lead has been replaced with zinc and is used in a ratio of 50/50.

Terne is used to coat steel sheet in order to produce a strong, corrosion-resistant product that is widely used for:

• Gasoline tanks

• Packaging

• Roofing

• Other uses where lead’s favorable properties are sought but a reduced total weight is desired

Corrosionpedia explains Terne

Terne metals are produced by coating carbon steel, stainless and other select metals with a specially formulated alloy consisting of zinc, tin and trace amounts of other elements, in order to dramatically increase a metal’s corrosion resistance by up to ten times.

Terneplate is a steel sheet with a coating of terne metal. It has the strength and formability of steel and the noncorrosive surface and solderability of terne metal.

Terne metal must be painted, and if the paint is maintained, terne metal can last 90 years or more. Terne-coated stainless II (TCSII or terne II) uses zinc in place of lead for environmental reasons. Terne II offers its enhanced corrosion-resisting capability without compromising mechanical characteristics. It can be used in any other application in which original terne has been used. It is strong and ductile, having high yield and tensile strengths as well as workability.

The term "nonterne" is frequently used to refer to substances or materials that do not contain terne or have not had terne used in their creation, as in the expression "nonterne-plated oil filters."

Ni-terne steel is a lead-tin alloy of approximately 92% lead and 8% tin, which has a dull gray finish, is very ductile and has a lubricating characteristic that enhances form-ability in drawing operations.

Terne is the least expensive alloy and is available in a variety of gauges and widths. Terne sheet is commonly used because of its excellent corrosion performance when in contact with petroleum fuels.

Source: https://www.corrosionpedia.com/definition/1077/terne

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