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MuscleTang mod project thread (1971 M-Mach 1)


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I was able to "box" one rear spring perch with the welder but I am having trouble with the wire feed. Whenever I need high wire speed it seems that it doesn't have enough "push". The tensioner is tight but it seems that it slips when the wire has some resistance. I am using 3/16" plates to box the perches so I need some good wire speed. I understand that I probably didn't need this much thickness but I had them laying around, plus they were 2" wide and fit very well inside the perch.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I was able to "box" one rear spring perch with the welder but I am having trouble with the wire feed. Whenever I need high wire speed it seems that it doesn't have enough "push". The tensioner is tight but it seems that it slips when the wire has some resistance. I am using 3/16" plates to box the perches so I need some good wire speed. I understand that I probably didn't need this much thickness but I had them laying around, plus they were 2" wide and fit very well inside the perch.

 

Have you changed your wire size lately?  The roller on the wire feed has 2 different size grooves for different size wire. Most common used in doing the body work is .023/.025" and for the bigger structure like spring perches I would use .030"  Just make sure you have the proper grooves lined up for the size wire your using. If you have the wrong grooves lined up you could have trouble with wire feeding slipping even if the rollers feel tight. I usually run my rollers just tight enough that when I hold the wire coming out of the gun with my hand the roller slips slightly.  If you run them too tight the roller wont slip and the wire can bunch up in the machine right in front of the rollers where the wire goes into the liner and makes a huge mess. Definitely check your grooves and make sure your on the proper ones. How old is your machine?? Eastwood has an awesome 3 year bumper to bumper warranty. If there's anything wrong they will send you out a brand new machine.

I had the cooling fan in mine go bad after 3 years and 2 months. I called them up to order a fan. They took my information and sent me a brand new welder. I have used the piss outta mine over the years and that was the only failure I ever had with it. Mine had got to be getting close to 8-10 years old now.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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I was able to "box" one rear spring perch with the welder but I am having trouble with the wire feed. Whenever I need high wire speed it seems that it doesn't have enough "push". The tensioner is tight but it seems that it slips when the wire has some resistance. I am using 3/16" plates to box the perches so I need some good wire speed. I understand that I probably didn't need this much thickness but I had them laying around, plus they were 2" wide and fit very well inside the perch.

 

Have you changed your wire size lately?  The roller on the wire feed has 2 different size grooves for different size wire. Most common used in doing the body work is .023/.025" and for the bigger structure like spring perches I would use .030"  Just make sure you have the proper grooves lined up for the size wire your using. If you have the wrong grooves lined up you could have trouble with wire feeding slipping even if the rollers feel tight. I usually run my rollers just tight enough that when I hold the wire coming out of the gun with my hand the roller slips slightly.  If you run them too tight the roller won't slip and the wire can bunch up in the machine right in front of the rollers where the wire goes into the liner and makes a huge mess. Definitely check your grooves and make sure your on the proper ones. How old is your machine?? Eastwood has an awesome 3 year bumper to bumper warranty. If there's anything wrong they will send you out a brand new machine.

I had the cooling fan in mine go bad after 3 years and 2 months. I called them up to order a fan. They took my information and sent me a brand new welder. I have used the piss outta mine over the years and that was the only failure I ever had with it. Mine had got to be getting close to 8-10 years old now.

Thanks Kevin. I have had the 030 wire there for a while since most of my welding these days is thicker body panels. I know the roller you are taking about and I double checked and it was in the thicker groove. I noticed that the steel roller that is above the driver feels greasy. I am cleaning it and then increasing the tension further to see if the drive improves, but keeping in mind not to make it too tight as you suggest. I think it could be a combination of those two issues. As of late I have not used the welder for such thick plates so I have not needed that high of a speed. The problem seems to be with a speed of 6 or higher.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Besides the issues described above here is a condensed list of what I have been working on this winter:

-Building a custom vacuum pump and reservoir system for the brake booster. This took way a lot of time but I wanted a system that is partially hidden so it took a lot of work and testing. The tank gets vacuum from the engine as well as from a pump. The idea came from here: https://www.powerperformancenews.com/tech/gimme-a-boost-how-to-build-an-inexpensive-power-brake-vacuum-booster/. I had to use a different vacuum switch since the one recommended there is junk. I ended up using a Superior K058 switch. I located the new vacuum reservoir where the stock one was and the pump underneath. The reservoir now feeds the brake booster and the A/C controls. Once I get a chance to test the system with the brakes I will start a detailed thread. I already tested the vacuum and all connection and it seems to work, but the big test will be with the brakes. The vacuum range is between 17 and 20 mmHg.

-Fitting Duraspark distributor: adjusting the gear depth by removing material from the flange, limiting mechanical advance to 20 deg, and limiting vacuum to 10 deg.

-Rearrange PCV hoses.

-Raise the throttle plate on the manifold so it is aligned with the EFI linkage. Blue Thunder manifold is taller than stock.

-Build adapter for the shifter.

-In the process of completing a custom built driveshaft safety loop.

-Getting ready to replace leaf springs with Maier 4.5 leaf springs. Hence the last post about boxing the spring perches.

-Getting ready to replace third member and axles with Strange components.

 

Edit: added vacuum switch infomation

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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  • 2 weeks later...

Last night I finished boxing the leaf spring perches and installed the Maier 4.5 leaf springs & Bilstein shocks.

Here is a thread that I started asking questions about the U-bolts (https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-leaf-springs-u-bolt-recommendations?pid=340786#pid340786). I used the Dayton 361-450 U-bolts that are 1/2" in diameter. This involved drilling the spring plates to 1/2".

In that thread it was suggested to box the perches. After some searching online I saw pictures of what can happen to the perches when a lot of torque is applied to the axle during launch. I didn't feel I had to weld the whole reinforcing plate. The weld is a bit sloppy, but I also did it in steps - not continuous. I didn't want to overheat the axle too much. I also did alternating between the front and back sides of the perch always cooling with compressed air. It still got hot, but I don't think it gets hot enough to create any major warping. The plates were 3/16" thick.

 

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20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Great build thread Tony, with lots of sub-threads to navigate through. Well done ! Your persistence and patience shines through so kudos for you for having a plan and sticking to it. Hope i can demonstrate the same level of commitment even when it gets tough for my rebuild.

 

On the welder front if you're not seeing any power check the obvious, the fuse (s). Don't know enough about Eastwood products but should be similar for all welders. I've had to replace mine a couple of times previously probably due to the household wiring.

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Thank you. After cleaning the rollers that drive the wire it improved. I also incresed the torque of the tensioner. I was able to weld with no problems at a "7" speed.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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  • 1 month later...

Today I went for a very short drive and all is looking good. The car feels a bit rough so I still have to work on timing and check total advance, adjust EFI idle, adjust rear brake proportioning valve and other adjustments. Since I am braking-in the differential and transmission the recommendation is to drive "not aggressive" for the first 500 miles, and not driving more than 50 miles without letting the differential oil to cool down.

I have a goal of attending a local car show this weekend, if weather permits. I still have to clean the dust from the exterior and clean the inside.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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More driving today. It feels so good to be back driving this car. Window down and just the sound of the roaring engine. I even forgot I can play music in the car stereo. It is hard to control not to do hard launches and spin those tires.

 

I did some modifications to the brakes and still brakes like an old car (Wilwood fronts, generic GM rear discs, new lines, Wilwood master, and vacuum pump). I can lock the rears but not the fronts.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Will anyone know if I can adjust the passenger door without removing the fender? You really need to push it for it to completely close. You can see that once it it is close it raises about 1/8" and it looks well aligned wit the rest of the lines. At this point I am not looking for perfection but rather have it close a little more smoothly.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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If its raising an 1/8" on the striker when you are closing it, I would check your hinge bushings. If they are slightly worn that could cause the door to sag slightly at the rear and raise up onto the striker when closed.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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If its raising an 1/8" on the striker when you are closing it, I would check your hinge bushings. If they are slightly worn that could cause the door to sag slightly at the rear and raise up onto the striker when closed.

 

 

How do I check them? looking for up and down play at the end of the door when open?

I should have tackled that when I had the fender off last year. I don't foresee a way to fix it without removing the fender, which I hate.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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open the door fully and try to lift the back of door up and down. If the bushings are bad, you will feel the door move and should be able to see play in the pins of the hinges. Yes , it would be wise to remove the fender to keep from damaging the paint.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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open the door fully and try to lift the back of door up and down. If the bushings are bad, you will feel the door move and should be able to see play in the pins of the hinges.  Yes , it would be wise to remove the fender to keep from damaging the paint.

 

So am I looking at four of these? http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/Mustang/Body/Door-Components/Door-Hinges/Door-Hinge-Pin-Bushing-Repair-Kit-1967-1973-Mustang-Cougar.axd

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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open the door fully and try to lift the back of door up and down. If the bushings are bad, you will feel the door move and should be able to see play in the pins of the hinges.  Yes , it would be wise to remove the fender to keep from damaging the paint.

 

So am I looking at four of these? [/url]http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/Mustang/Body/Door-Components/Door-Hinges/Door-Hinge-Pin-Bushing-Repair-Kit-1967-1973-Mustang-Cougar.axd

 

I am sure Don @ Ohio Mustang does those

Steve

1971 Grande

 

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Perfect. One more project to the list. Hey, this is the first project in Page 12 of the list.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Perfect. One more project to the list. Hey, this is the first project in Page 12 of the list.

 

I am sure glad i didnt draw up a list. It would have made for daunting reading. Though once you reach that mid point theres a sense the finish line coming into view ;)

Steve

1971 Grande

 

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For those readers that may have a Retrosound stereo. I installed mine a few years ago but I always had this nagging issue that I couldn't play USB music when the car was on. All pointed out to electronic interference so I didn't do much troubleshooting because I knew my spark plug wires were old. Fast forward two years and I finally replaced the wires with Accels's 8mm. The problem persisted so I just tried a simple test. Since the USB cable was long I had coiled it behind the radio. I uncoiled it and run it on the floor along the console away from any other wires. That simple solution did it. It was working with no problems. I then run it between the console and the carpet and it worked great. The key is not to run the USB cable next to any other wires. It was very close to the antenna wire so that may have been the culprit. As an added measure I clipped one of those ferrite RFI suppression filters to the USB cable. I also clipped one to the the positive wire to the radio. This is one more issue scratched off the list.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Making a small neat coil of excess wire can have unintended consequences, especially when it is next to steel or iron. Having several individual insulated strands of wire in the cable, whether the cable is shielded or not, adds to the unknown consequences. The coil of cable forms what is called an inductor (also called a choke). Inductors are used to smooth out electrical waveforms in a circuit, and can completely block audio signals, as well as other frequencies. The RFI filter you added to it is also a type of inductor, so if your stereo seems to lack bass or high frequencies you might want to try removing it, see if it helps or not.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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Making a small neat coil of excess wire can have unintended consequences, especially when it is next to steel or iron. Having several individual insulated strands of wire in the cable, whether the cable is shielded or not, adds to the unknown consequences. The coil of cable forms what is called an inductor (also called a choke). Inductors are used to smooth out electrical waveforms in a circuit, and can completely block audio signals, as well as other frequencies. The RFI filter you added to it is also a type of inductor, so if your stereo seems to lack bass or high frequencies you might want to try removing it, see if it helps or not.

 

Interesting point that you bring up here with the coil of excess wire. In this case it was a USB wire that I can't cut and patch. In other cases, if you didn't want to cut it, what would be the best way to deal with excess wire. I have couple places in the car where I have coiled excess wire and now I am thinking about it.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Try to meander it around or make a larger loop, 10 or 12 inches in diameter. Don't wrap it around metal.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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