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Deluxe Pedal Support Bearing Kit


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Moving on to my next project while my motor is out, I am converting from front manual disc conversion (originally Drums ) to power disc by adding a reman. factory booster. While I'm at it, I want to rebuild my manual trans pedal bracket support with the Scot Drake deluxe roller bearing kit. However, in the NPD catalog, this is only listed for 65-70. Has anybody fitted this kit to a 71??. Just asking because a friend used a 69 pedal set when he converted a 71 from auto to manual trans, so I assuming the pedal supports may be the same, not sure. I also know I will need to relocate the push-rod pin as it is virtually impossible to find a power brake pedal for manual transmissions. I found Mustang Steve's website and he offers a kit as well, but to me, being a former machinist, it didn't look as "professional" Could be the pictures and info didn't do it justice.

The SSBC conversion I used with Kelsey Hays style 4 piston calipers uses a separate rear brake regulator, bypassing the distribution block. Would it be prudent to remove this and go with a new disc/drum distribution block with the power booster?

Comments and suggestion??

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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The pedal supports are all different 71-73, but can be used in any 71-3 if you can match the column support bracketry.

 

If you have a manual brake/manual trans pedal support, then all you need to do is either drill out or remove the threaded inserts that the master cylinder bolts to. There is also a thin sheet filler panel there that needs to be removed as well. Not 100% certain, but you may have to enlarge the lower holes for the booster studs - it's been a while. You can then bolt up a stock power booster and master cylinder. I recommend a fair assortment of swivels and sockets for that procedure, or even better - remove the guage cluster.

 

As far as a power brake pedal for manual trans, just get a power brake/auto trans pedal and trim down the pedal pad. :D

 

 

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I've read The pivot point is different between 71-3 power and non-power brakes.

 

On earlier Mustangs the pedals shared the same shaft and the 71-3 have

different shafts as the clutch shaft is rear of the brake pedal shaft.

 

I would ask Bruce (and ONLY Bruce) at Modern Drive Line the best way to proceed!

There are other ppl there that answer e-mails but hear the answer from Bruce even

if you have to call. I got bad info from one of the other workers there on an e-mail I

sent and thankfully Bruce chimed in and set things right!

 

Good Luck

Paul

73 Grande

351C 2v

Now 4v Carb/Cam/headers/T5

 

Gasoline is for washing parts.

Alcohol is for drinking.

Nitomethane is for racing!

 

 

Work in Progress photos here:

Last Update: 4/23/16

 

http://s1270.photobucket.com/user/therocket366/library/?sort=3&page=1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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:)

I've read The pivot point is different between 71-3 power and non-power brakes.

 

On earlier Mustangs the pedals shared the same shaft and the 71-3 have

different shafts as the clutch shaft is rear of the brake pedal shaft.

 

I would ask Bruce (and ONLY Bruce) at Modern Drive Line the best way to proceed!

There are other ppl there that answer e-mails but hear the answer from Bruce even

if you have to call. I got bad info from one of the other workers there on an e-mail I

sent and thankfully Bruce chimed in and set things right!

 

Good Luck

Paul

 

Thanks rocket366 & Hemikiller. I do have a schematic from SSBC on where the relocate of the push rod is supposed to be, I say that loosely! Somehow I just knew it wasn't going to be 'that easy'. Your comments are a huge help and enlightened me to facts I would not have thought of being that 71-73's are basically the same, but maybe not eh!

If needs be, I can take the bracket to my former shop and machine and fab what I need, but that sounds like 'work' to me. As for the brake pedal, I was wondering about using an auto, but wasn't sure if the shape would be the same, considering the clutch pedal position. I need to remove my bracket and physically look at what I've got and go from there.

I actually 'tried' to fit a so called Direct Fit booster conversion kit and quickly found out that whoever made that claim, had obviously NEVER actually fitted it to the 71 Mach1 with shock tower braces. Apart from that minor issue, there is a seam in the firewall that is a direct interference with the base mount on the booster. Enough on that, total crap!

What I'm saying here is I already have a good basic understanding of the process from having to remove the assist spring clutch spring when I fitted a Centerforce II clutch just after I bought the car in 08 and messing around with that booster "thing".

Thanks guys,

Stanglover.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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I'm confused a bit?

 

The firewall is the same for a power or non-power brake car.

 

The booster bolts to the same four bolts that hold the pedal

support to the firewall.

 

So why can't you get a stock booster and bolt it on?

 

The master I think should be different for a front disc car (larger reservoir for the calipers)?

 

The difference between power and non-power brake pedal is the

pivot point and the size of the pad which can be cut...correct?

 

If you need a power brake pedal check with Don at Ohio Mustang Supply!!

 

Wish I could be more helpful!

 

Regards

Paul

73 Grande

351C 2v

Now 4v Carb/Cam/headers/T5

 

Gasoline is for washing parts.

Alcohol is for drinking.

Nitomethane is for racing!

 

 

Work in Progress photos here:

Last Update: 4/23/16

 

http://s1270.photobucket.com/user/therocket366/library/?sort=3&page=1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I'm confused a bit?

 

The firewall is the same for a power or non-power brake car.

 

The booster bolts to the same four bolts that hold the pedal

support to the firewall.

 

So why can't you get a stock booster and bolt it on?

 

The master I think should be different for a front disc car (larger reservoir for the calipers)?

 

The difference between power and non-power brake pedal is the

pivot point and the size of the pad which can be cut...correct?

 

If you need a power brake pedal check with Don at Ohio Mustang Supply!!

 

Wish I could be more helpful!

 

Regards

Paul

 

Ok I see your confusion.

I was referring to an aftermarket so-called direct fit booster conversion, which I believe is the Bendix style, 8" dia. which can bee seen in the NPD catalog. It is no where near the same thing when it comes to fitting the firewall. I even contacted the manufacturer in California to question why they would even claim it would fit the 71-73 firewall. I got no direct answer.

The booster I am going to put in is an original remanufactured booster, so I know it will fit. I am aware of how to put it all in, that's no problem and I know I have to move the push-rod pin down 2" on the pedal. I can either change the original as needed or, as I prefer to keep all the original parts I take off, buy a complete set of pedals. That is looking less like an option as they are very hard to find and expensive. I could also buy a power auto brake which are quite plentiful and mod it IF it is the same thing but with a bigger foot pad.

My original question was about replacing the old support pin and bushing with a bearing kit that Scot Drake manufactures, but is listed for the 65-70 only. The question was, will this kit fit the 71-73 support. Has anyone done this change? I do have options, but a heads-up on the procedure would be helpful.

I hope this clears up any misunderstandings.

Thanks for your input,

Geoff.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Yes OK.

 

Talk to Bruce at MDL they sell a bearing kit also for 65-70

 

http://www.safepay.net/cgi-bin/shop/cart.cgi?db=mddata.txt&category=pedals&merchant=moderndriveline

 

I thought I've read on this site people have used the MDL kit but can't be certain.

 

Paul

73 Grande

351C 2v

Now 4v Carb/Cam/headers/T5

 

Gasoline is for washing parts.

Alcohol is for drinking.

Nitomethane is for racing!

 

 

Work in Progress photos here:

Last Update: 4/23/16

 

http://s1270.photobucket.com/user/therocket366/library/?sort=3&page=1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Yes OK.

 

Talk to Bruce at MDL they sell a bearing kit also for 65-70

 

http://www.safepay.net/cgi-bin/shop/cart.cgi?db=mddata.txt&category=pedals&merchant=moderndriveline

 

I thought I've read on this site people have used the MDL kit but can't be certain.

 

Paul

 

Thanks Paul, I'll check that out. I appreciate your feedback.

Geoff.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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I've read The pivot point is different between 71-3 power and non-power brakes.

 

On earlier Mustangs the pedals shared the same shaft and the 71-3 have

different shafts as the clutch shaft is rear of the brake pedal shaft.

 

I would ask Bruce (and ONLY Bruce) at Modern Drive Line the best way to proceed!

There are other ppl there that answer e-mails but hear the answer from Bruce even

if you have to call. I got bad info from one of the other workers there on an e-mail I

sent and thankfully Bruce chimed in and set things right!

 

Good Luck

Paul

 

Pivot point is the same, the stud location for the master cylinder/booster pushrod is different. Manual M/C pushrod stud is higher on the pedal, giving greater leverage.

 

The info I originally gave is to retrofit a stock booster, and was noted as such.

 

 

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I've read The pivot point is different between 71-3 power and non-power brakes.

 

On earlier Mustangs the pedals shared the same shaft and the 71-3 have

different shafts as the clutch shaft is rear of the brake pedal shaft.

 

I would ask Bruce (and ONLY Bruce) at Modern Drive Line the best way to proceed!

There are other ppl there that answer e-mails but hear the answer from Bruce even

if you have to call. I got bad info from one of the other workers there on an e-mail I

sent and thankfully Bruce chimed in and set things right!

 

Good Luck

Paul

 

Pivot point is the same, the stud location for the master cylinder/booster pushrod is different. Manual M/C pushrod stud is higher on the pedal, giving greater leverage.

 

The info I originally gave is to retrofit a stock booster, and was noted as such.

 

Thanks Hemikiller. I am aware that the push-rod pin location is lower, no problem with that. I can either rework my original as required or as you say, use an auto trans power pedal and trim the foot pad. At the expense of repeating myself, it is the replacement of the old plastic bushing with a roller bearing kit with a new shaft that I am wondering about as I only see kits up to 1970 listed. I am just about to strip that all down now my motor is out and that will give me a good look at what I have. The question was, " has anyone else used one of these kits on a 71-73?" Looks like no-one has as yet.

Geoff.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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I did the mustang steve bearing on mine,i like it and it was easy to do.except for getting the support out.just takes the right combination of cuss words i guess.

 

@73mach1,

Thanks for confirming that the kit Mustang Steve sells will fit the 71-73's This is the info I was looking for, but I do appreciate other comments and suggestions put forward.

I am planning on removing the bracket tomorrow........ before it get too cold to work in my unheated garage!!

There was one question that nobody addressed in my original post and that concerns changing the original distribution block that was used with a separate rear adjustable block as supplied with the SSBC kit, with a new disc/drum distribution block when I put in the power booster. Any thoughts on this??

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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I would use the factory 71-3 combo valve for front dics/rear drum.

 

I've seen them on e-bay cheap.

 

Paul

73 Grande

351C 2v

Now 4v Carb/Cam/headers/T5

 

Gasoline is for washing parts.

Alcohol is for drinking.

Nitomethane is for racing!

 

 

Work in Progress photos here:

Last Update: 4/23/16

 

http://s1270.photobucket.com/user/therocket366/library/?sort=3&page=1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I would use the factory 71-3 combo valve for front dics/rear drum.

 

I've seen them on e-bay cheap.

 

Paul

 

Thanks Paul, I was leaning towards that option, but wasn't sure. The adjustable rear valve has it's merits, but it's in the way now and would have to be moved regardless. I can always go back to it later if I still have too much rear bias.

Geoff.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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+1 for Mustang Steve's bearing kit. We replaced the sad needle bearing set up of Scott Drake with Steve's roller bearings and couldn't be happier.

 

Have fun with the bracket wrangling!

[button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-mustang-convertible--19017]Visit My Garage[/button]

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+1 for Mustang Steve's bearing kit. We replaced the sad needle bearing set up of Scott Drake with Steve's roller bearings and couldn't be happier.

 

Have fun with the bracket wrangling!

 

@Butch65, VERY interesting!! I just ordered Mustang Steve's kit as I had no confirmation that the Scott Drake kit would work on the 71. Looks like I'll be glad I did.

As for the "bracket wrangling", I asked Steve if he had any suggestions to remove the said bracket.. I quote "Remove the rear bumper, remove the trunk lid, start moving forward!!" He's not far off the truth. To be honest, this bracket is NOTHING like the earlier years, it's freakin' huge! My plan now is to remove the steering column. In my case, my engine is out and I'm taking my steering box off anyway to rebuild it. My 71 Ford manual shows how to remove the column, should be quite easy. I think, for a bigger guy, this would be best, too tight otherwise. It looks like the fresh air plenum on the driver's side will also have to be removed, or loosened as well. Apart from that, the booster will fit, but I realized that the thin cover plate in place for manual brakes, has spacers welded to it at the hole locations. Those spacers are there for a reason. I have enlarged the hole for the booster boot and will replace the plate.

I'll post more after it is done, not sure when that will be, but given that no-one else has offered a complete solution, it may help others.

Thanks to one and all for your input,

Geoff.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Heres what I used for my MANUAL frt disc rear drum combo works perfect !

http://shop.broncograveyard.com/Proportioning-Valve-for-Disc_Drum-Brakes/productinfo/12564/

I wouldn't futz around with a used unit off ebay why take chances ?

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART

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Ok the bracket is out!! In the scheme of things, it was actually quite easy once I got past the over thinking. Yes, it was easier because I have the motor and gearbox out, but certainly not impossible with it in.

Here's what I did on my non-power brake car:

Removed the drivers seat.... why fight it!

Remove master cylinder.

Before doing anything else, I set my steering wheel straight and locked the column.

Remove the 2 nuts from the rag joint and the trans lock rod. Also remove the clutch rod from the boot. I had previously un-hooked it from the pedal.

From inside, I removed the left kick panel to release the carpet to access the 3 bolts that hold the base of the column. You'll need a long extension unless you can wriggle under the column.

Undo the 2 harness connections CAREFULLY then undo the 2 nuts and 1 bolt that hold the column up.

Carefully pull the column forward and down so as NOT to damage the boot. There is some sealer around it. Mine came out easily. remove it from the car.

I had already got some of the bracket bolts out and removed the brake pedal. The harder bolt to remove is behind the gauges, but I was able to reach it by just removing the dash top and pad. You'll need a universal and a long socket extension. It's a 1/2" socket. This may be more difficult if the HUGE spring is still there. Mine was long gone!

Remove the 3 or 4 small bolts that hold the fuse block and other items.

The bracket should now practically fall out.

I'm hoping that when I ready to put it all back together, it will go easily. Time will tell.

Hope this helps others who want to upgrade to the Mustang Steve's BBK Ball bearing pedal shaft conversion kit. I also purchased the PB1 power brake conversion pin as I am changing my existing pedal to match the position of the new power booster rod.

Next spring will be a whole lot better in the brakes department.....I hope!!

If I've forgotten anything, I'll add it later. Hope this helps.

Oh yeah! I spent about 2 hrs faffing around yesterday and about an hr today. It likely would have only taken about 1.5 hrs if I'd gone straight for removing the steering column.

Geoff.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Heres what I used for my MANUAL frt disc rear drum combo works perfect !

http://shop.broncograveyard.com/Proportioning-Valve-for-Disc_Drum-Brakes/productinfo/12564/

I wouldn't futz around with a used unit off ebay why take chances ?

 

Good info, thanks, I'll look into that option.

Geoff.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Thanks for the write-up!

 

The combo valves are available NEW from ebay and vendors.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Proportioning-Valve-for-65-73-Mustang-Cougar-Disc-Brakes-Combination-Valve-/121299000079

 

http://www.cjponyparts.com/brake-combination-valve-disc-drum-1965-1973/p/BCV1/

 

(double check these are correct)

 

WOW the price on these have gone up in recent years!

 

Good Luck with your project!!!

Paul

73 Grande

351C 2v

Now 4v Carb/Cam/headers/T5

 

Gasoline is for washing parts.

Alcohol is for drinking.

Nitomethane is for racing!

 

 

Work in Progress photos here:

Last Update: 4/23/16

 

http://s1270.photobucket.com/user/therocket366/library/?sort=3&page=1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks for the write-up!

 

The combo valves are available NEW from ebay and vendors.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Proportioning-Valve-for-65-73-Mustang-Cougar-Disc-Brakes-Combination-Valve-/121299000079

 

http://www.cjponyparts.com/brake-combination-valve-disc-drum-1965-1973/p/BCV1/

 

(double check these are correct)

 

WOW the price on these have gone up in recent years!

 

Good Luck with your project!!!

Paul

 

Thanks Paul.

I'll post more later when I get it done and that could be in the early Spring. Almost time to put it to bed for winter. Oh do I wish I had a big heated garage!!!

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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