Tips for removal of distributor shaft clip

I searched and I was surprised to not find threads discussing the removal of the clip on top of the distributor shaft. I am probably not using the right terminology. I want to remove the breaker plate of the distributor to check the mechanical advance and also being able to examine the weight numbers. To get to that I am struggling with the removal of the wire clip that sits on top of the shaft. I can't seem to figure out a way to remove it, and I can't even think about installing it.

Hopefully some of you have gone down this path and can give me a pointer.

Thank you.

Try lightly prying up on the cam, to keep a little pressure on the clip while working at the clip with small sharp pointed screwdriver or dental pick. Hardest part of rebuilding the distributor, for sure.

+1 on Don's post. I've also used a small pick and miniature needle nose pliers. If it goes flying when it comes off. it is almost impossible to find. Ask me how I know. Chuck

+1 on Don's post. I've also used a small pick and miniature needle nose pliers. If it goes flying when it comes off. it is almost impossible to find. Ask me how I know. Chuck

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I was thinking about that. Knowing my luck that will be a given. Are these clips available for sale somewhere? In any case, I will try to place a tent around the thing so to keep the clip contained.

+1 on Don's post. I've also used a small pick and miniature needle nose pliers. If it goes flying when it comes off. it is almost impossible to find. Ask me how I know. Chuck

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Ahhh, the pitwangee spring , I usually find that kind of stuff 6 months after I waited two weeks for the hard to find little parts.

use the straw from a can of carb spray and a couple of finishing nails and slip the straw over each of the two nails with just enough straw left to go over each end of the clip...

e like chop sticks with a tiny screwdriver between the two pieces you fabricated as a lever.

Boilermaster

I wonder if this is why Cardone Select for instance, replaced that pesky spring thingy with a Phillips head screw!!

I looked through my pictures from when I finally figured out how to rebuild and recurve my dizzy for what I wanted out of the 351C 4V, but did not have one of that spring clip. It is a PITA for sure as the spring ends need to be spread apart. I used very small needle nose pliers to spread them and dislodge from the groove, then was able to lift it out...…… and that's when it went across the workshop!! I got lucky though and found it right away. Next time I placed a rag over the top to contain it. After doing this several times, it got to be easy. Don't forget the oil pad!!

From  MY own findings, working on a 351 4V M code (71), my suggestion would be to weld and recut a slot to .410" wide, L10 or 20 degrees on the crank. Set the springs with 1 heavy factory spring set with just a small amount of free play and use a Mr. Gasket 925D on the other side. Use a Pertronix II and matching coil, then set the initial to 14 degrees to start with and set the vacuum at no more than 6 degrees (if needed at all) on top. i.e. 20*+14 = 34* + 6 vac. See how it runs then try bumping to 16* initial.

This subject has come up many times and Tony is no stranger to it, but newer members may benefit. These motors (other than the Boss) were set for early emissions and were retarded to an initial of 6 degree with an L15 slot width which totals 36* mechanical, so it is no wonder that they ping like crazy on the crappy gas we have these days.

Geoff.

Remove that clip last weekend. I don't know if it's different per year/type, on my autolite its, a ring that end up with 2 vertical ends. a small flat screwdriver to excenter a tad toward middle and a "twist" movement after that freed it from the groove. Took a few tries to get the right movement. Placing it back was more easy, just used thin players pressed and went down in shaft and depressed.

[if it goes flying when it comes off. it is almost impossible to find. Ask me how I know. Chuck]

+1, not just for that, but for all the tiny clips I've used a magnet near them while busy and if you would lay a cloth/kitchen paper on top before trying you would also prevent they turn UFO (unexpected flying object). The arm of the vac unit for instance has on this unit a really tiny ear clip and you are sure you will not find it back before you would have found a new one first

Thanks for all the great ideas. This reminds me that I have a set of forceps pliers that may help.

I wonder if this is why Cardone Select for instance, replaced that pesky spring thingy with a Phillips head screw!!

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Makes good sense. I wonder if they can be drilled and tapped to accept a screw.

I wonder if this is why Cardone Select for instance, replaced that pesky spring thingy with a Phillips head screw!!

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Makes good sense. I wonder if they can be drilled and tapped to accept a screw.

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May be, never looked at that option. You'll need a lock washer under the screw though.

Pic is not too clear, but I think you can see it on this already changed Cardone Select dizzy. Oh! there are metric threads in these puppies.

Geoff.

The arm of the vac unit for instance has on this unit a really tiny ear clip and you are sure you will not find it back before you would have found a new one first

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 You got that right! I went to a general parts store nearby and bought 10 of them...…….. I have 4 left!!

One time I even stripped the cam plate out again to retrieve the one I actually saw drop down and in. I didn't want any UFO's inside a dizzy at 2500 rpm!

Thank you for all the help. With a little of patience, a long nose pliers and a pair of tweezers I was able to remove it. The distributor already had the L10 slot. I had already ordered the Mr. Gasket spring kit. I will putting it all together this week.

I have another question but before I start another thread let me try it here.

The breaker plate is held in place by a spring and a retainer that holds said spring. This retainer attaches to a plastic shaft that sticks out through the plate. The retainer went flying somewhere in the garage and I abandoned the search after an hour :huh: . Any ideas on where to get the retainer or can I use another type of clip to hold the spring.

I have another question but before I start another thread let me try it here.

The breaker plate is held in place by a spring and a retainer that holds said spring. This retainer attaches to a plastic shaft that sticks out through the plate. The retainer went flying somewhere in the garage and I abandoned the search after an hour :huh: . Any ideas on where to get the retainer or can I use another type of clip to hold the spring.

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 Tony, My old mind is not seeing what you mean exactly. I looked at my pics, but I'm not seeing the retainer and spring. Can you post a pic of that please?

 Geoff.

I have another question but before I start another thread let me try it here.

The breaker plate is held in place by a spring and a retainer that holds said spring. This retainer attaches to a plastic shaft that sticks out through the plate. The retainer went flying somewhere in the garage and I abandoned the search after an hour :huh: . Any ideas on where to get the retainer or can I use another type of clip to hold the spring.

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 Tony, My old mind is not seeing what you mean exactly. I looked at my pics, but I'm not seeing the retainer and spring. Can you post a pic of that please?

 Geoff.

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I borrowed this picture from the web. I circled in yellow the retainer I am referring to. I am finding out that it is part of the breaker plate D2PZ 12151-A. I will guess that they don't sell this little retainer separately but I am hoping there are other alternatives.

Tony, this is what you need. This is used, well used, but if you want it. PM me your address and I'll mail it to you. OR it will show you what you need. I think you may still buy this from a Ford dealership. Worth a try. I do have a brand new Motorcraft breaker plate I think I took out of a Cardone Select distributor, but I need to keep that one. Also that reminds me, you may be able to get parts from Cardone, also worth a try.

Geoff.

 

Tony, this is what you need. This is used, well used, but if you want it. PM me your address and I'll mail it to you. OR it will show you what you need. I think you may still buy this from a Ford dealership. Worth a try. I do have a brand new Motorcraft breaker plate I think I took out of a Cardone Select distributor, but I need to keep that one. Also that reminds me, you may be able to get parts from Cardone, also worth a try.

Geoff.

 

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Thank you Geoff. Today I received the parts and I was able to finish assembling the distributor. I also happened to find the old nut retainer wedged under the wheel of the engine hoist after I lost the one he sent. I actually found both, so now I have a spare one. The reason I was having so much trouble with the nut retainer is that the plastic protruding shaft was worn out which allowed the retainer to slide out. I ended up inserting the nut retainer and clamping it onto the plastic shaft with pliers.

Geoff is a great member and didn't even want me to pay for shipping. Thank you!

Tony, this is what you need. This is used, well used, but if you want it. PM me your address and I'll mail it to you. OR it will show you what you need. I think you may still buy this from a Ford dealership. Worth a try. I do have a brand new Motorcraft breaker plate I think I took out of a Cardone Select distributor, but I need to keep that one. Also that reminds me, you may be able to get parts from Cardone, also worth a try.

Geoff. 

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Thank you Geoff. Today I received the parts and I was able to finish assembling the distributor. I also happened to find the old nut retainer wedged under the wheel of the engine hoist after I lost the one he sent. I actually found both, so now I have a spare one. The reason I was having so much trouble with the nut retainer is that the plastic protruding shaft was worn out which allowed the retainer to slide out. I ended up inserting the nut retainer and clamping it onto the plastic shaft with pliers.

Geoff is a great member and didn't even want me to pay for shipping. Thank you!

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 Tony, you're most welcome. I'm happy you were able to fix it up. I knew the clip was a bit distorted and the plastic shaft tip was also damaged, so like I said, "well used"

A tip for others doing this is to used a small 'nut driver' that fits into the clip. That way you will push the clip on the shaft evenly and straight. Thought of this after.

Thank you also for the compliments.

Geoff.

Edit note; Springs, you may find it better to use the factory heavy spring and one of the Mr Gasket. Adjust the heavy spring so it is just slightly lose on the posts, i.e. no tension on it. That way it will not take effect until the revs increase. That is what worked best for my 4V engine.