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I have tried searching and looking thru threads to no avail.  Starting to work on my engine bay and am wondering what are the pros and cons on going to a 1 wire alternator.   I want to try to clean up my engine bay as much as possibe but also believe most of the time "if it ain't broke don't fix it" and my current ALT, although ugly, works fine.

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I've had a 1 wire high amp alterrnator installed as part of my engine bay (hidden wiring) upgrade for 10 years now with no probs at all.

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Jim

 

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I don't like the 1 wire jobs, as you have to rev the engine to engage it.  It also doesn't give good feedback for alternator indicator lamps given the existing wiring.  Mad Electrics recommends the standard old generation alternators primarily for those reasons. 

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml

Let me check your shorts!

http://midlifeharness.com

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6 minutes ago, midlife said:

I don't like the 1 wire jobs, as you have to rev the engine to engage it.  It also doesn't give good feedback for alternator indicator lamps given the existing wiring.  Mad Electrics recommends the standard old generation alternators primarily for those reasons. 

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml

Well that is a big plus for " it ain't broke so don't fix "!!!!

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You can always go with a 3G upgrade if you're looking for an amp upgrade, even though it's actually a 2-wire alternator. It also keeps the alternator warning lamp functional.

 

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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You can always keep the stock alternator and add the voltage regulator in the back to convert to 1-wire. I have not used this but I have read about it.

https://advancetruckpartsusa.com/products/f7078-ford-1-wire-alternator-conversion-kit-w112107

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I'm thinking along the lines of swapping to a higher output alternator, but I don't want to run into what midlife described (gotta rev to engage) as I noticed a few weekends ago when I was driving in the twilight hours, when the lights were on, the voltmeter's reading was right at or below '12' at idle, the stereo sound went fuzzy, and the signal light didn't want to flash... however, once I stepped on the gas, it all 'brightened back up,' and everything was good again.  That's with a stock alternator as well, so I definitely need an electrical source upgrade.  All I had 'on' was the engine, electric fuel pump, Retrosound radio (no amp yet) and the lights with the windows down (no A/C, either).  I'm still working on the motivation to get my fuel injection and A/C idler arm installed, which will tax the power output when running, along with using the power windows, but once I install the H4 headlights and headlight relay harness, that might 'free up' some of the load on the alternator (but essentially just transfer it to increased recharging for the battery when the lights are on, I know).

Any recommendations on which factory style and/or 3G units to go with?

Eric

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I think I may have mentioned in another post but I have a DB Electrical 3G alternator and have no issues. No need to rev to engage.

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20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I have done 1 wire alternators on both of the fox body Mustangs I had an I loved them. The only complaint I could think of with them was having to give it a quick rev to essentially turn it on. But even that was never a biggie for me. Plus I liked cleaning up the engine bay a bit more. 

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  • 1 month later...

This is one topic I have never understood. What was wrong with the original?? Just like guys changing the old flatheads from 6-V to 12-V. My dad drove a 1950 ford to work from 1952 until he gave to me in 1964 or 65. it would be below zero and the old 6-V never failed to start never had to be jumped. Why change something that works??

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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I have been looking at buying a Ford 1G Tuff Stuff Performance High-Amp Output Factory Cast-Plus Alternator, 140 amp, V-Belt, Natural As Cast, Hybrid Case 7078NJ. I prefer the stock look, but it also comes in chrome and black.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-7078nj

 

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I've always been a stock kinda guy when it comes to charging. The only times I had issues were when the wiring was suspect or a component failed. I'm using a Motorcraft electronic regulator that I scavenged from a parts car, and an Advance auto reman alternator. My ground cables are attached to a stud I welded into the fender apron, not the Ford method of a sheetmetal screw. I was thinking about the battery the other day and surprised myself that it had a 2008 manufacturing date and still works perfectly. 

If you have a lot of higher draw accessories and tend to get stuck idling in traffic, then I would consider a 3G upgrade as it charges better at low RPMs than the factory 1G. Just be aware that you may find a need to go to a dual V-belt or a serpentine when you get above 100A. 

 

 

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