Bent cross member?

MAD IRISHMAN said:

Made an attempt to install (temporarily to check header fitment) the new engine in my '72 Mach1. The oil pan is a Milodon with a kicked out sump. According to Milodon it should clear the cross member under the engine in a stock chassis. But in this case it's a no-go. Back of pan needs about 1/4" of space between it and the front edge where there are pinch welds. While I was prepping to "cut and paste" the member for more room I noticed a ding in the top side at the rear. Probably had a hook on it at some point in its life for whatever reason. It appears that the whole thing looks like it has pushed forward causing my clearance issue. Would appreciate input from the chassis aficionados out there.

Click to expand...

detritusmaximus said:

Definitely looks like it got pulled and bent. Maybe out of a ditch?

I have one in a parts car I could cut out if yours can't be straightened.

Click to expand...

basstrix said:

Agree that it appears to be pulled forward and should be able to push it back in place. Be sure to check wheel alignment.

On another note, I like your fender blankets. Where did you get them?

Click to expand...

MAD IRISHMAN said:

Well the power pack was a bust. It leaked like a sieve after sitting unused for 25+ years.
Plus, the cross-member was twisted as well as bent. After trying initially to trim the cross-member to clearance the pan it was “no can do”. This car is for my own enjoyment not a restoration with original stuff. I decided a new, user friendly cross-member was in order. Used a 1.625” wall 4130 Chrome Moly tube left over from a roll bar project. Used mild steel plate to block of ends of remaining cross-member and mounting tabs. Also added a plate to the tube for future jacking of the front end. I can’t get the car outside to use my MIG welder. MIG welding in my shop is a conflagration waiting to happen. So, it was TIG time. Trying to weld factory galvanized metal to uncoated metal is no fun. But got it done with some less than pretty weldments. But as my welding instructor said back in the day “pretty isn’t what counts”.
FINALLY, I got the motor installed, trans attached, and headers put on. Going to have to do a little “heat & ding” clearance work on the headers around a couple bolt holes. I see what people were talking about
with the small amount of clearance with the steering box. Probably address that as well.

Click to expand...

Vern Cook said:

A really interesting solution. Talk about thinking outside the box. I just took a photo of mine in situ and it seems to be a little less prominent than your galvanized pipe. It is a little bit recessed from the front and chamfered on the top. I'm just wondering if its like that to facilitate the engine and the sump.
Just thought I would throw it in for consideration.
V

vintageman said:

Great job Irish, I had a fun time getting my headers to fit around the steering box as well. It took about 6-8 test fittings after the hammer use to get it to fit properly.

Good luck

Tom

Click to expand...

Ah yes the favorite tool of anyone who works on Fords!

Click to expand...

Vern Cook said:

A really interesting solution. Talk about thinking outside the box. I just took a photo of mine in situ and it seems to be a little less prominent than your galvanized pipe. It is a little bit recessed from the front and chamfered on the top. I'm just wondering if its like that to facilitate the engine and the sump.
Just thought I would throw it in for consideration.
Vern


View attachment 90943

Click to expand...