Replacing the front springs on my 1971 Mustang

tfowler9 · Nov 10, 2024

I bought an entire suspension and steering kit from CJ pony. Have had issues! ......but this is about the springs. I have all the other suspansion parts in place and now need to install the springs. The spring compressor I am using will not allow me to compress down to the size I need. The rodded thread is not long enough. I have had this tool since I replaced the components in 1985. It worked fine then. (I'll attached a picture of the style I am using) Any suggestions on a different tool or a different way to get these installed. Thanks Tom

detritusmaximus · Nov 10, 2024

tfowler9 said:
I bought an entire suspension and steering kit from CJ pony. Have had issues! ......but this is about the springs. I have all the other suspansion parts in place and now need to install the springs. The spring compressor I am using will not allow me to compress down to the size I need. The rodded thread is not long enough. I have had this tool since I replaced the components in 1985. It worked fine then. (I'll attached a picture of the style I am using) Any suggestions on a different tool or a different way to get these installed. Thanks Tom

Do you have the outer shock tower cover plate still on?

Stanglover · Nov 10, 2024

I bet I know the issue. I bought a complete front end kit from a Canadian supplier, but it was all Scott Drake stuff. While the UCA's and LCA's were 'ok', the springs were not. They were about 2" too tall, made from thinner wire and different coil count. My "guy" put them in with great difficulty and when the car was lowered back to the ground, the front end sat 2" too high.
What I did was to check if the old springs were indeed nfg, and found they were still in spec with no distortion at all, so they went back in after a clean up and repaint.
I sent the springs back for a full refund on that part of the kit.
Bottom line is; don't scrap what might still be good.

basstrix · Nov 10, 2024

I've used this style. I've had problems with the actual tool malfunctioning (because the one I bought is cheap), but overall, it works and has much lower risk of slipping off the spring (and causing injury or damage).

tfowler9 · Nov 10, 2024

Stanglover said:
I bet I know the issue. I bought a complete front end kit from a Canadian supplier, but it was all Scott Drake stuff. While the UCA's and LCA's were 'ok', the springs were not. They were about 2" too tall, made from thinner wire and different coil count. My "guy" put them in with great difficulty and when the car was lowered back to the ground, the front end sat 2" too high.
What I did was to check if the old springs were indeed nfg, and found they were still in spec with no distortion at all, so they went back in after a clean up and repaint.
I sent the springs back for a full refund on that part of the kit.
Bottom line is; don't scrap what might still be good.

Thanks for the response. I have that same concern, will the car sit to high if and when I get them installed. The car sat find with the old springs - about 1 1/2 inch above the fender well. The springs I removed our a couple of inches shorter then the new ones. How would I measure to ensure they are still ok? Thanks Again, Tom

tfowler9 · Nov 10, 2024

detritusmaximus said:
Do you have the outer shock tower cover plate still on?

no the issue is the springs are much taller then the ones I removed.

Stanglover · Nov 10, 2024

tfowler9 said:
Thanks for the response. I have that same concern, will the car sit to high if and when I get them installed. The car sat find with the old springs - about 1 1/2 inch above the fender well. The springs I removed our a couple of inches shorter then the new ones. How would I measure to ensure they are still ok? Thanks Again, Tom

Yep, I guess Scott Drake screwed up again!!
Your front springs will depend on the specs for YOUR car. I'm not sure if Eaton Detroit Springs, will have the specs for your car, but I think you can ask them.
In my case, the specs are for a Mach 1 with comp suspension, no A/C and manual transmission. I found the free standing height was 15". Mine were only 1/16th below that, no deflection or difference in coil height, so back in they went and are still in there.
Here's a pic or two of my springs. Interestingly, they still showed the original paint daub color coding.

tfowler9 · Nov 10, 2024

I will take a photo later today and post it. I think it will be close to your height. Mine is not a mach 1. It has AC, auto transmission ( now an AOD). I did replace them back in 1985! Tom

tfowler9 · Nov 10, 2024

tfowler9 said:
I will take a photo later today and post it. I think it will be close to your height. Mine is not a mach 1. It has AC, auto transmission ( now an AOD). I did replace them back in 1985! Tom

need to add my V8 is the 351 Cleveland so considered a big block

tfowler9 · Nov 10, 2024

tfowler9 said:
need to add my V8 is the 351 Cleveland so considered a big block

Here are the springs that came with the kit

Stanglover · Nov 10, 2024

tfowler9 said:
Here are the springs that came with the kit

They look like the crap ones I got, 9 coils and thinner wire gauge. My originals are 8 coils. Somewhere I think I still have the specs. I'll take a look and post if I find it. If yours look useable and both the same, use them.
Check Eaton for the correct specs for your car.
https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/

Moderator73 · Nov 10, 2024

tfowler9 said:
I bought an entire suspension and steering kit from CJ pony. Have had issues! ......but this is about the springs. I have all the other suspansion parts in place and now need to install the springs. The spring compressor I am using will not allow me to compress down to the size I need. The rodded thread is not long enough. I have had this tool since I replaced the components in 1985. It worked fine then. (I'll attached a picture of the style I am using) Any suggestions on a different tool or a different way to get these installed. Thanks Tom

I struggled with the same spring compressor tool you have the first time I changed my coil springs. Grateful that I lived the through it and didn’t want to tempt fate a second time so I bought this wonderful tool off eBay from a guy named Tommyzees. I’ve used it to R/R my springs twice now and couldn’t be happier. The link to his ebay page has detailed pictures showing how this works using your spring perch.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/264306294293

giantpune · Nov 10, 2024

Are you trying to compress the spring and then install it? Or are you inserting the spring, then compressing it with the compressor through the upper shock tower, and then attaching it to the upper control arm?

In my experience, the first method can be hard. You have to orient the spring compressor perfectly on the spring to get enough travel on it to compress the spring down. Its a lot easier putting the top of the spring compressor up in the engine bay and down through the shock hole. Then compress the spring up into the shock tower.

tfowler9 · Nov 10, 2024

Stanglover said:
They look like the crap ones I got, 9 coils and thinner wire gauge. My originals are 8 coils. Somewhere I think I still have the specs. I'll take a look and post if I find it. If yours look useable and both the same, use them.
Check Eaton for the correct specs for your car.
https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/

Thanks again, here are a few pictures. And yes 9 coils vs the original of 8. Although it looks to me like the wire gauge is the same.

Stanglover · Nov 10, 2024

tfowler9 said:
Thanks again, here are a few pictures. And yes 9 coils vs the original of 8. Although it looks to me like the wire gauge is the same.

I wasn't able to find the specs I thought I had on hand, but just looking at your pic showing 15 1/4", the coils look perfect to my old eyes. If both springs match each other, then a good clean up, repaint, add new everything else and put 'em back in.
That's just my thoughts on this, but I would certainly contact Eaton's for a better solution.
It's the same for rear leaf springs too. My car was a "one-wheeler-peeler" and wheel hop was an issue. Without the long story, I wasted my money on 4 1/2 leaf Grab-A-Track (Scott Drake) springs, only to find they too were 2" too high. Initially I installed 1" lowering blocks and that was a bad idea also. These springs started to reverse bend after a couple of years. I ripped those out and replaced with Eaton Boss 351 spec springs, which to be honest, I find a bit too harsh as I also have an Addco 7/8" rear antisway bar. However, it goes around corners with little body roll.

Don C · Nov 10, 2024

You can build your own with the plans from Daze Cars:
https://dazecars.com/dazed/spring.html

I built mine with a longer threaded rod, which I had to get from Fastenall rather than using the ungraded rods available from the local hardware stores. I also used a thrust bearing, rather than washers, at the top:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VZXKWBD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

basstrix · Nov 10, 2024

Don C said:
You can build your own with the plans from Daze Cars:
https://dazecars.com/dazed/spring.html

I built mine with a longer threaded rod, which I had to get from Fastenall rather than using the ungraded rods available from the local hardware stores. I also used a thrust bearing, rather than washers, at the top:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VZXKWBD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Was it an ACME thread on the rod you used? Good move on the thrust bearing.

Moderator73 · Nov 10, 2024

Don C said:
You can build your own with the plans from Daze Cars:
https://dazecars.com/dazed/spring.html

I built mine with a longer threaded rod, which I had to get from Fastenall rather than using the ungraded rods available from the local hardware stores. I also used a thrust bearing, rather than washers, at the top:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VZXKWBD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

That’s awesome Don! Great info

tfowler9 · Nov 11, 2024

Stanglover said:
I wasn't able to find the specs I thought I had on hand, but just looking at your pic showing 15 1/4", the coils look perfect to my old eyes. If both springs match each other, then a good clean up, repaint, add new everything else and put 'em back in.
That's just my thoughts on this, but I would certainly contact Eaton's for a better solution.
It's the same for rear leaf springs too. My car was a "one-wheeler-peeler" and wheel hop was an issue. Without the long story, I wasted my money on 4 1/2 leaf Grab-A-Track (Scott Drake) springs, only to find they too were 2" too high. Initially I installed 1" lowering blocks and that was a bad idea also. These springs started to reverse bend after a couple of years. I ripped those out and replaced with Eaton Boss 351 spec springs, which to be honest, I find a bit too harsh as I also have an Addco 7/8" rear antisway bar. However, it goes around corners with little body roll.

I am going to clean up the old springs and reinstall. I had replaced the rear leaf springs at the same time as the front (back in 1985! They look fine and the ride height is fine. I also have the 7/8th rear sway bar. works fine. I did buy new shocks for the back but will not change out the leaf springs. Thanks for all your help. Tom

Stanglover · Nov 11, 2024

tfowler9 said:
I am going to clean up the old springs and reinstall. I had replaced the rear leaf springs at the same time as the front (back in 1985! They look fine and the ride height is fine. I also have the 7/8th rear sway bar. works fine. I did buy new shocks for the back but will not change out the leaf springs. Thanks for all your help. Tom

Sounds good and glad to have helped. Don't replace what doesn't need to be.
By the way, see if the original paint daubs are still on the springs. That will tell you the spec code.

Replacing the front springs on my 1971 Mustang

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