408 Stroker parts discussion

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As far as I know the engine mounts are the same for Windsor & Cleveland

My coupe originally came with a Windsor 302 but purchased it with a 302 Cleveland aussie in it

Here's some prothane type mounts from CJP - https://www.cjponyparts.com/polyurethane-motor-mount-set-289-302-351-1965-1972/p/MM503/
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It makes the situation very confusing. They are listed for the 71-73 Mustangs and they look the same as the stock ones, at least in regards to the hole locations. I need to check more on this. 

However, if you look in Prothane's website, http://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/6503, they specifically state "Ford Mustang 1969 thru 1973", but then say "Will not fit Cleveland."

:huh: :huh: :huh: :huh:

Maybe it is meant to say that it doesn't fit the 1973 Cleveland. :chin: :chin: :chin:
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I should have done this before. I have the stock motor mounts and I had also purchased the Prothane 6503s some time age. I compared them side by side and the dimensions are the same so they should work. The description in their website is still confusing!

Yes very confusing these parts catalogues sometimes, been a parts interpreter for over 15 years and it still frustrates me

In my younger days it didn't matter if you had a Windsor or Cleveland in our falcons the engine mounts and bell housings were the same so doing a swap was very easy

I reckon the Mustang mounts are the same as our falcons also but will check this
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The alternator only supplies what is asked of it. If I am drawing 100 amps from my accessories, it will only supply that amount. 200amp is the max rating of the alternator. Not what it will constantly run at. I left myself plenty of  amperage for future upgrades if needed. If not, then at least my alternator isn't being strained by the demand.
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A more current capable alternator will also normally produce more current at lower rpms.  This helps when you have low end torque and don’t need to spin the engine high all the time.

 
Still waiting for my block. As I wait, I am now looking into oil pans. I have heard excellent reviews of the Kevko's oil pan. I am thinking about the F607: https://kevkoracing.com/collections/ford-cleveland/products/part-f607-ford-cleveland-front-sump-t-style-drag-pan

I am thinking of ordering it black. My theme will be painting the block and heads Ford Blue. Use the Ford Racing Black covers and black accessories. The alternator will be aluminum. I wonder if I can paint it black.

What are the thoughts on this oil pan? Do you guys run windage trays? I think they may not fit but I am curious.

 
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That is the pan I am running. Fit perfectly. Very good quality. Got the pickup to go with from them and run a standard volume meldon oil pump. You won’t be disappointed in quality. Mine came painted black.

 
That is the pan I am running. Fit perfectly. Very good quality. Got the pickup to go with from them and run a standard volume meldon oil pump. You won’t be disappointed in quality. Mine came painted black.
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How much oil are you putting in the engine now with the Kevko pan? o you have the original dip stick and you fill up to the full line?

 
Original Dipstick fill it to full line. I think it is a little over 6 quarts or close to 7. I would have to look back at my notes. I haven ha much time to do anything with the car so far this year.

 
For the main bolts I am using ARP 154-5004 kit. It comes with a standoff bolt that according to a description I read in Jegs it is for the oil pump pickup. However, the bolt set that was used in the block before didn't have this standoff bolt so I am wondering if it is even used. In any case, I have to use it, so where should I place it?

 
The stud with extended section is for mounting a mid or rear sump oil pump pickup (ie: in a pickup truck). Not needed in a front sump application. They also used them when running an aftermarket windage tray. If you're not running a tray, just put it in one of the front 2 mains where it won't interfere with the pickup or pump. Don't put it in the rear, as it may hit on the pan.

 
The stud with extended section is for mounting a mid or rear sump oil pump pickup (ie: in a pickup truck). Not needed in a front sump application. They also used them when running an aftermarket windage tray. If you're not running a tray, just put it in one of the front 2 mains where it won't interfere with the pickup or pump. Don't put it in the rear, as it may hit on the pan.
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Makes sense. Thank you. I will place it in the front most main to facilitate with removal of pan while in car.

 
As an update. I am in the process of assembling the engine. The rotating assembly is ready. Just need to finish decreeing the cam, install the timing belt cover and HB, and oil pan. Then go through the process of measuring the push rod length, complete the valve train assembly, and test.

Here is a list of some of the parts:

  • The block was bored .030 over and went though the oil restricting process. One piece rear main seal mod. Magnafluxed.
  • The pistons are Icon forged with 24cc inverted dome. 
  • The rods are Molnar forged H-beams with the Centralign design. 
  • The crankshaft is Molnar forged 4340 internally balanced.
  • Total Seal rings.
  • King crank/rod bearings.
  • Roller valve train with Gaterman roller lifters, Comp retrofit kit, Scorpions roller rockers, Ferrea and Qualcast SS valves, Manley guide plates.
  • My 4V heads were machined for screw-in studs (not needed for the lift I am using, but what the heck) and multiple angle valve job.
  • Custom grind Comp camshaft: 230/236 @0.05; .558 lift.
  • Rollmaster dual roller SVO timing chain.
  • Kevko oil pan and pickup.
  • FlowKooler water pump.
  • Melling oil pump.
  • Romac harmonic balancer.
  • ARP bolts/studs where matters.

 
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Good choice on the Molnar crank and rods, Total Seal rings, and King bearings. You will love it when it is done. Keep us updated. Chuck

 
I hate these oil pan gaskets..... this is my second time installing the oil pan gasket and they split below the specified torque. I am using the low number in the torque range and the gasket split in two places. One place is by the bigger bolt where the gasket meet the pads, and the other place somewhere in the middle. The big bolt is supposed to be torqued between 11 and 13 ftlbs. Already by 10.5 ftlbs you can feel that the torque was not increasing and that the gasket was being split and pushed out by the bolt hole. Now I am debating if I should remove the gasket and put another one in, or just keep it like that. I was using a Mr. Gasket one that is rubber coated "fiber". Do they make any silicone rubber gasket or solid gasket that's not corked?

 
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Typically I've used Fel-Pro with no problem. I don't know of a 351C one piece but this may work for you.  https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-40400/overview/make/ford   Chuck

 
Typically I've used Fel-Pro with no problem. I don't know of a 351C one piece but this may work for you.  https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-40400/overview/make/ford   Chuck
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Thank you. That's the exact one I saw recommended in one of the posts. I just ordered it. Let's see if it doesn't tear. I may torque the large bolts to 10 lbsft instead of 11 lbsft. I remember that the last time I did it it 10+ was the killer torque.

 
I'm not saying this is the only way to do it but, this is how I tighten pan bolts. Install all finger tight, starting in the middle and alternating between sides, tighten them all snug. Check the crush on the gaskets and repeat the tightening process until I feel the bolt go tight without splitting the gasket. I use a 1/4" ratchet and choke up on the ratchet handle. I know there is no torque value used but it has worked for me for many, many years. You also have to make sure the pan lip has not become dimpled around the bolt holes due to over tightening. Chuck

 
+1 on above post and the Felpro gasket

I also don't use a torque wrench but just go by feel, gradually tightening and watching the gasket, if it starts to squeeze that is more than enough

From memory the Felpro gasket is rubberized cork so less prone to splitting

 

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