71' new front suspension installation

[klinton994]

I've taken on the task of replacing my front suspension and steering components. This is something I have never done.

Prior to disassembly, I failed to note camber adjustment location on the old LCA, or take a measurement of how the original LCA was situated to a structural point on the body.

Today I have installed the new LCA's, attached the struts to the LCA's and left the struts loose in the frame of the car.

The car is on four jack stands. Two on the rear axle, two on the front portion of the frame. I am assuming, that the point of the front sway bar, that the link bolt passes through, should be horizontally level. If so, the link bolt does not align with the hole in the LCA. I had begun to adjust the camber bolt, and the caster adjustment bolt, in an effort to align the hole in the LCA with the link bolt. If I am approaching this correctly, would I then tighten down the outside strut nut?

I think I'm going to pull of this project until I get some answers.

I know I will need to get the car properly aligned.

thanks

 

[Don C]

It will be only approximately level when the weight of the car is on the front wheels. The link bolts have rubber bushings on both ends to compensate for the changing alignment of the sway bar with the LCA as the front suspension travels up and down.

 

[Bentworker]

In my experience by the time you move the lower control arms out far enough to get 0 or negative camber and shorten the strut rods to gain positive caster the sway bar end links end up pretty wonky. I wish some of the sway bar manufacturers would offer a “sport” bend that lined up better with the LCA holes when using a modern performance alignment.

What I am getting it is that having the sway bar links plumb is no indication that everything is “right”

 

[klinton994]

In my experience by the time you move the lower control arms out far enough to get 0 or  negative camber and shorten the strut rods to gain positive caster the sway bar end links end up pretty wonky.  I wish some of the sway bar manufacturers would offer a “sport” bend that lined up better with the LCA holes when using a modern performance alignment.

What I am getting it is that having the sway bar links plumb is no indication that everything is “right”

I’m not trying to get it right. I will be taking it directly to the alignment shop. I just wanted to verify if I was doing the install correctly in the way I was attempting to adjust the LCA to allow the sway bar link bolt to drop straight in.

 

[MikeGriese]

A photo or two would help.

 

[Bentworker]

You could just leave the sway bar off until the alignment is done. It is easier to install it with the weight of the car on the wheels anyway. Drive it up on some ramps or a lift post alignment and bolt it up.

 

[klinton994]

You could just leave the sway bar off until the alignment is done.  It is easier to install it with the weight of the car on the wheels anyway.  Drive it up on some ramps or a lift post alignment and bolt it up.

Ty. Should I adjust the strut rods so that both Rods have the equal amount of rod measured from the rod adjusting nut to the LCA? Then should I tighten the struts down at the front of the frame?

i will be asking the alignment shop to check my installation prior to alignment. 

ty

 

[Bentworker]

I’d shoot for equal and middle of the adjustment range. Get everything torqued down to spec and double checked. I’d also do a crude toe in with strings or a long rule / folding rule / tape. As long as you have a good alignment person they should be able to tweak it to whatever spec you give them and be good to go.

 

[klinton994]

I’d shoot for equal and middle of the adjustment range.  Get everything torqued down to spec and double checked.  I’d also do a crude toe in with strings or a long rule / folding rule / tape.  As long as you have a good alignment person they should be able to tweak it to whatever spec you give them and be good to go.

Honestly,

i have ave no idea what would be the middle of the adjustment range. I could probably adjust the LCA’s all the way out and then back in half way. How to roughly adjust the strut rods I am uncertain. 

Thanks

 

[Hemikiller]

I’d shoot for equal and middle of the adjustment range.  Get everything torqued down to spec and double checked.  I’d also do a crude toe in with strings or a long rule / folding rule / tape.  As long as you have a good alignment person they should be able to tweak it to whatever spec you give them and be good to go.

Honestly,

i have ave no idea what would be the middle of the adjustment range. I could probably adjust the LCA’s all the way out and then back in half way. How to roughly adjust the strut rods I am uncertain. 

Thanks

Just eyeball it so the wheel is centered in the fender arch. 

Whatever you do - DO NOT let the alignment shop use factory specs. Factory specs are for bias tires, not radials. Radials need more caster to return to center properly. Use the specs on Opentracker's site. A good idea is to use an 1/8" shim behind the front upper control arm bolt, this rocks the upper ball joint rearward to promote increased caster without causing rubbing issues with the valance. 

https://opentrackerracing.com/technical/

 

[klinton994]

I’d shoot for equal and middle of the adjustment range.  Get everything torqued down to spec and double checked.  I’d also do a crude toe in with strings or a long rule / folding rule / tape.  As long as you have a good alignment person they should be able to tweak it to whatever spec you give them and be good to go.

Honestly,

i have ave no idea what would be the middle of the adjustment range. I could probably adjust the LCA’s all the way out and then back in half way. How to roughly adjust the strut rods I am uncertain. 

Thanks

Just eyeball it so the wheel is centered in the fender arch. 

Whatever you do - DO NOT let the alignment shop use factory specs. Factory specs are for bias tires, not radials. Radials need more caster to return to center properly. Use the specs on Opentracker's site. A good idea is to use an 1/8" shim behind the front upper control arm bolt, this rocks the upper ball joint rearward to promote increased caster without causing rubbing issues with the valance. 

https://opentrackerracing.com/technical/

Thanks for the spec tips.