73 imported vert to NZ

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Ballaratcastle

Well-known member
Joined
May 29, 2018
Messages
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Location
New Zealand
My Car
1973 Mustang Convertible. Just imported from the USA as an unfinished project.
[url=https://ibb.co/gXU4Qy][img]https://preview.ibb.co/f0tW5y/Mustang.jpg[/img][/url]
So a really long story short. Imported a 73 vert unfinished project from California. Was panel and painted 5 yrs ago but not put together. Owner selling due to ill health. Had new rear 1/4s and rear floor pan. I had it inspected prior to importing however exporter didn't spot the bad workmanship. Rear innder guards did not meet new outers in wheel arch. Bad repair to left rear trunk drop panel. Car had old accident damage in front where panel and painters had painted over buckled front chassis rails. One was cracked through at the crumple point. I was told the car was mint and would fly through compliance here in NZ. 

Engine 1974 351W and C4 had been running in vehicle, stored for 4 yrs then been running on owner old ford truck. He paid a guy to take it out and waterblast it and pallet it up for shipping. 

Car arrives with lots of new parts. I disconnect the C4 to discover water pours out of the driveshaft spline. Rebuild $1600. Idiot waterblasting it also got water down intake. 2 mths sitting during shipping. Seized motor. $9k rebuild. 

Certifier finds cracked chassis. Bugger! New Dynacorn chassis rail apron assemblies and cross members $2k, panel and paint shop to chop off the old front and line up, weld and paint new front $5k. Now I can finally start assembly. Sadly my budget well and truely blown!





aluminum sulfide chemical formula

 
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Before and after of the engine. New Edelbrock performer cam, E street heads, High compression pistons. Performer RPM intake. Should hopefully be around 350hp now. The engine numbers come back to a 74 galaxy low compression engine.







 
WOW what a story. I always recommend that anyone buying a car like you did to make their own inspection of the vehicle. Engines that are together are not what you want to buy. To easy to clean and paint and be junk inside.

I do like the fixture that they put your car back together on. Looks like it could fit any chassis.

You have done some great work and keep the pics coming for sure.

 
WOW what a story. I always recommend that anyone buying a car like you did to make their own inspection of the vehicle. Engines that are together are not what you want to buy. To easy to clean and paint and be junk inside.

I do like the fixture that they put your car back together on. Looks like it could fit any chassis.

You have done some great work and keep the pics coming for sure.
Cheers David. It's a big learning curve as I try and work out how one goes back together. I really appreciate the help I get from you guys after all my stupid questions as it's the first car I have built up.

 
Sorry for the mishap. Glad you are in your way. Good looking belt and pulley. I first thought it as a supercharger.

Advice: dont keep track of expenses and never add them up. If you spend $4k round it up to $1k [emoji16]

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 
Looks like it will truly be a great car after your done and driving. Be nice to see the finished product.

Since I am new to Mustang restoration how do you rate the Dynacorn parts you had to use for fit and general quality?. I will be needing to do a bit of the same on a 71 coupe, but hopefully no where near as much metal work. But I am seeing floors, and other more minor body work. Keep all the receipts. Never add them all up.

 
Looks like it will truly be a great car after your done and driving.   Be nice to see the finished product.  

Since I am new to Mustang restoration how do you rate the Dynacorn parts you had to use  for fit and general quality?.  I will be needing to do a bit of the same on a 71 coupe, but hopefully no where near as much metal work.  But I am seeing floors, and other more minor body work.  Keep all the receipts.  Never add them all up.
Hi John. 

The rear floor pans were done in the USA but each side was attached differently which was unusual. One side was spot welded and the other side was tack welded. The certifier here made me add spot welds to the tack welded side. 

The panel beater attaching my front assemblies was generally happy with them and the fit but said each side seemed to be slightly different lengths when they were lining things up. Another restorer I had phoned prior had only done some 60s models and he said the apron closest to the firewall had to be unpicked and adjusted but my 71-73 panels seemed to fit the firewall ok. 

He said it was a tough job to get evertything aligned but part of the issue was the firewall might have been slightly out of alignment from the historical impact as well. 

Hope this helps. 

Cheers

Steve

 
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