Accidentally cut the metal fuel line

[GERMYS_72]

I was trying very hard not to do this, but I nicked both the fuel and the vapor metal lines while cutting out flooring.

I slapped on some 3/8 rubber fuel line, let me know if this will present an issue. I assume ok since there's already rubber / metal / rubber all the way to the engine bay.

 

[Sheriff41]

That should work but you should use fuel injection hose clamps. @Stanglover will educate you

 

[Cleveland Crush]

Agree with Sheriff, hopefully @Stanglover will not see those screw gear clamps...

 

[GERMYS_72]

Ok great. Can't wait for stanglover's thoughts on the matter

 

[giantpune]

I would suggest flaring the ends of the line to help the rubber seal up. If you cant manage that, a replacement steel line is not overly expensive nor hard to install.

Neither of the supply or return lines are pressurized with the stock setup. You just need to hold back the weight of the gas in the tank.

 

[Don C]

That should work but you should use fuel injection hose clamps. @Stanglover will educate you

I agree, gear clamps are bad enough when they're out in the open where you can keep an eye on them, a disaster waiting to happen when they're in a place where you can't see them. The rubber will creep out from under the clamps, meaning that the clamps have to be retightened periodically, especially when the weather starts getting colder and the rubber shrinks as well as creeps. If you decide to replace the lines, and don't mind doing the bending, cutting and flaring yourself, the nickel copper lines are the best way to go, easy to bend and flare and never corrode nor rust out, and look good, kind of a shiny finish with a slight copper color. If your lines are old, especially like original, they are probably nearly rusted through, anyway.

 

[Bentworker]

Doh! At least you didn’t catch it on fire.

New fuel / vapor lines are kind of a pain to thread in. Maybe get them on hand?

 

[GERMYS_72]

I would suggest flaring the ends of the line to help the rubber seal up. If you cant manage that, a replacement steel line is not overly expensive nor hard to install.

Neither of the supply or return lines are pressurized with the stock setup. You just need to hold back the weight of the gas in the tank.

The tank is out right now, I'll check into new lines

 

[Stanglover]

I agree, gear clamps are bad enough when they're out in the open where you can keep an eye on them, a disaster waiting to happen when they're in a place where you can't see them. The rubber will creep out from under the clamps, meaning that the clamps have to be retightened periodically, especially when the weather starts getting colder and the rubber shrinks as well as creeps. If you decide to replace the lines, and don't mind doing the bending, cutting and flaring yourself, the nickel copper lines are the best way to go, easy to bend and flare and never corrode nor rust out, and look good, kind of a shiny finish with a slight copper color. If your lines are old, especially like original, they are probably nearly rusted through, anyway.

Don, you took the words out of my 'mouth' so to speak. You saved me a lot of one finger typing!
Gear or worm clamps have their uses, but NOT on fuel lines other than for setup and testing.

 

[GERMYS_72]

How does this sound for a plan. I can install a new SS fuel line, and only do the rubber line patch on the vapor line ?


https://www.cjponyparts.com/classic...sC0kEZQwWUqqbGQ_glr1R4SJbpm8AzSsaAvC8EALw_wcB

 

[Bill Kanode]

I was trying very hard not to do this, but I nicked both the fuel and the vapor metal lines while cutting out flooring.

I slapped on some 3/8 rubber fuel line, let me know if this will present an issue. I assume ok since there's already rubber / metal / rubber all the way to the engine bay.


View attachment 94428

I would replace both lines. My lines looked good but I replaced all lines even parking brake cables with Stainless Steel as I do with all of the cars that I restored. I bought my parts through Inline tube. You may have my old ones if you live near Columbus Ohio as I think they are very useable.

 

[Stanglover]

The tank is out right now, I'll check into new lines

I went with SS lines that were supposedly pre-bent, but still needed 'adjustments'. Rubber hose needs to be fuel injector grade, but even then, I found the outside surface is not that gas resistant.
If you're this far into the job, replacing lines make absolute sense.
I also suggest getting new rubber gromets for where the lines go through body panels.
Here are a few pics I have. You can see the rust in the line. It actually broke when I removed it.
I also made a new 3/8" steel line from the pump to the carb, a Holley 670 4V. I had to adapt the pump outlet to take 3/8" lines. The rubber 'sleeve' was just to protect from frame rubbing, that's just me though!
Note the screw clamps and fuel line spring clamps used. These are all good.

 

[GERMYS_72]

I went with SS lines that were supposedly pre-bent, but still needed 'adjustments'. Rubber hose needs to be fuel injector grade, but even then, I found the outside surface is not that gas resistant.
If you're this far into the job, replacing lines make absolute sense.
I also suggest getting new rubber gromets for where the lines go through body panels.
Here are a few pics I have. You can see the rust in the line. It actually broke when I removed it.
I also made a new 3/8" steel line from the pump to the carb, a Holley 670 4V. I had to adapt the pump outlet to take 3/8" lines. The rubber 'sleeve' was just to protect from frame rubbing, that's just me though!
Note the screw clamps and fuel line spring clamps used. These are all good.

Thanks,
I might as well replace the rear brake lines while I'm at it.

 

[giantpune]

Thanks,
I might as well replace the rear brake lines while I'm at it.

The long brake line is a lot easier with the transmission and driveshaft out of the car.

I do think at the stage you're at, replacing the fuel line is the right call. Its probably easier to replace it than to clean all the crud out of your old one. I wouldn't sweat the vapor one, TBH. Only un-important garbage vapors go through it, at essentially atmospheric pressure. Double up on the hose clamps and call it good.

My fuel vapor lines are not connected to anything at all in the engine bay. It doesn't smell bad.

 

[Stanglover]

Thanks,
I might as well replace the rear brake lines while I'm at it.

Yeah, why not. And while you're in there........................

 

[Stanglover]

Double up on the hose clamps and call it good.

Huh! Proper clamps don't need to be "doubled up".

 

[giantpune]

Huh! Proper clamps don't need to be "doubled up".

Proper hose clamps also usually go on lines that have a flare the hose goes over.

If you dont want to flare the ends, you can use a compression fitting. Its got a little copper ring that gets smooshed around the hard line and seals up well. I've used that setup a lot in pressurized fuel lines and never had one fail.

 

[GERMYS_72]

Yeah, why not. And while you're in there........................

I just scoped it out, one of the grommets is single, the other is double and has a brake line going with the fuel line. I would have to basically redo that brake line (crimp a new fitting on) to get it inside a new grommet.

 

[Stanglover]

I just scoped it out, one of the grommets is single, the other is double and has a brake line going with the fuel line. I would have to basically redo that brake line (crimp a new fitting on) to get it inside a new grommet.

Cut the grommet. Or, it may be sliced anyway, can't remember, but I did brake lines way before I did the fuel line. NPD sell them and probably many other places.

 

[GERMYS_72]

Proper hose clamps also usually go on lines that have a flare the hose goes over.

If you dont want to flare the ends, you can use a compression fitting. Its got a little copper ring that gets smooshed around the hard line and seals up well. I've used that setup a lot in pressurized fuel lines and never had one fail.

Do you have a link to an example of that compression fitting ?