C-6 to T-5 swap

[droptop73]

So those of you with T5/tremec 5 speeds, what are you using for shifters? I have a Tri-ax connected to a custom peice af aluminum and it doesn't fit the console very well. I also have a pretty big hurst shift boot to cover it.

Greg

I was going to post the same question. I'm using a stock ford shifter and lever. I spaced the lever rearward approximately 3".

Congrats jeff!! Cant wait to get that parts list. This is definately going to be on my to do list. Glad it all worked out for ya.

Kevin

Thanks Kevin. It was a pretty straight forward swap with just a couple of surprises. So far it's been a ball to drive. I drove it to work today.

 

[Qcode351mach]

Awsome swap & great info Jeff ::yourock:: Looking forward to the parts list & templates..

 

[whitesoc]

Very cool Jeff! Great job you gotta be proud of yourself on this one!!

 

[TheJ]

Very awesome Jeff, can't wait for the video. ::beer::

 

[gpierce]

[/b]

I was going to post the same question. I'm using a stock ford shifter and lever. I spaced the lever rearward approximately 3".

 


How did you do that? I don't have any pics of the shifter without the boot, but here's what it lookes like together. First pic is of the shifter in Reverse, second pic it's in First.

 


Greg

 




 

 

[droptop73]

Thanks for the compliments guys!

I'll post a photo of my shift lever and extension soon. It's not pretty but it was cheap.

 

[droptop73]

Well, no pics of the cobbled up extension... here's what i ended up with. The stick was cut from a piece of 1/2 X 3 X11 aluminum. I drilled and tapped the end @ 3/8-16 and cut off a bolt to attach the old school 4-speed T handle. The boot is from a 5 speed focus picked from the boneyard for free and attached to a plate that is screwed to the bottom of the console.

I KNOW... I still need to post the parts list and templates.

 

[1971mach1]

So those of you with T5/tremec 5 speeds, what are you using for shifters? I have a Tri-ax connected to a custom peice af aluminum and it doesn't fit the console very well. I also have a pretty big hurst shift boot to cover it.

Greg

Hurst makes a real nice 5-speed shifter and boot that looks just like the origional 4-speed Hurst shifter that came in the Boss 351s. I think other models with 4-speeds came with this shifter in 1971 too, but I have only actually seen them in a Boss 351.

It even fit my mini-console, so it really looks stock.

You can even get the T-handle for it for the factory look, although I prefer a black ball.

Mine looks almost identical to this Boss 351:

http://www.boss351registry.com/Car-Images-1/ALL_INT_COLORS-Images/Green-Mach1-Sports..jpg

 

[cazsper]

My car has a 9" and I want to go to the 8.8 because it is a more efficient design. The 9" is very strong but it also uses a lot of power to turn it.

Very true.. I had a '95 GT with a supercharged stroked Windsor that made 500 at the wheels and even more torque. Of course that was with forged axles and a Torsen differential. But no problems. The only thing I would do differently is weld the axle tubes to the center section. They are only pressed in and can leak.

So those of you with T5/tremec 5 speeds, what are you using for shifters? I have a Tri-ax connected to a custom peice af aluminum and it doesn't fit the console very well. I also have a pretty big hurst shift boot to cover it.

Greg

Hurst makes a real nice 5-speed shifter and boot that looks just like the origional 4-speed Hurst shifter that came in the Boss 351s. I think other models with 4-speeds came with this shifter in 1971 too, but I have only actually seen them in a Boss 351.

It even fit my mini-console, so it really looks stock.

You can even get the T-handle for it for the factory look, although I prefer a black ball.

Mine looks almost identical to this Boss 351:

http://www.boss351registry.com/Car-Images-1/ALL_INT_COLORS-Images/Green-Mach1-Sports..jpg

Also look at Pro 5.0. They make a really nice shifter. Very smooth. I thought it was a bit smoother than the Tri-Ax. Not sure about the Hurst.

 

[gpierce]

My car has a 9" and I want to go to the 8.8 because it is a more efficient design. The 9" is very strong but it also uses a lot of power to turn it.

Very true.. I had a '95 GT with a supercharged stroked Windsor that made 500 at the wheels and even more torque. Of course that was with forged axles and a Torsen differential. But no problems. The only thing I would do differently is weld the axle tubes to the center section. They are only pressed in and can leak.

So those of you with T5/tremec 5 speeds, what are you using for shifters? I have a Tri-ax connected to a custom peice af aluminum and it doesn't fit the console very well. I also have a pretty big hurst shift boot to cover it.

Greg

Hurst makes a real nice 5-speed shifter and boot that looks just like the origional 4-speed Hurst shifter that came in the Boss 351s. I think other models with 4-speeds came with this shifter in 1971 too, but I have only actually seen them in a Boss 351.

It even fit my mini-console, so it really looks stock.

You can even get the T-handle for it for the factory look, although I prefer a black ball.

Mine looks almost identical to this Boss 351:

http://www.boss351registry.com/Car-Images-1/ALL_INT_COLORS-Images/Green-Mach1-Sports..jpg

Also look at Pro 5.0. They make a really nice shifter. Very smooth. I thought it was a bit smoother than the Tri-Ax. Not sure about the Hurst.

All of those shifters are too short and low for a comfortable shift to my arms. I did end up with a Hurst shift stick on mine with a Tri-Ax shifter base (had a tri-ax on it with a funny extension when I bought it).

Still looking for a good boot that works and can see the clock with it installed. If we had Escorts in Australia I would look for that

Greg

 

[adm22]

I had my original handle from the 3 speed welded onto the one from the T-5. Since the T-5 handle was too short for my liking. The original boot fit over it just fine and I used the knob from the T-5.

I think it ma be a lottle too long. I recently had to take the center console out and it was extremely difficult to remove and so far have been unable to get it back on.

 

[cazsper]

You should look at the website for Modern Driveline. They have the older "style" handles that mate to the modern shifter bodies. I believe they have an 8 inch and a 10 inch shift "lever" they also offer a variety of handles including the Hurst T-handle

 

[gpierce]

I had my original handle from the 3 speed welded onto the one from the T-5. Since the T-5 handle was too short for my liking. The original boot fit over it just fine and I used the knob from the T-5.

I think it ma be a little too long. I recently had to take the center console out and it was extremely difficult to remove and so far have been unable to get it back on.

I have to take my shifter handle off before I can remove the console. I pull up the current rubber boot I'm using from the bottom, undo the bolts and remove it first. Then the console barely clears the base.

Greg

 

[droptop73]

I made my shift lever from a $6.00 piece of 1/2" aluminum. Just some bandsaw and file work to clean it up.

 

[gpierce]

The bandsaw would cost me more than buying a shifter. But then I would have a bandsaw and a shifter!!

 

[droptop73]

Yeah I went and used my dad's bandsaw. I spent $15.00 on a new blade for him.

 

[adm22]

I had my original handle from the 3 speed welded onto the one from the T-5. Since the T-5 handle was too short for my liking. The original boot fit over it just fine and I used the knob from the T-5.

I think it ma be a little too long. I recently had to take the center console out and it was extremely difficult to remove and so far have been unable to get it back on.

I have to take my shifter handle off before I can remove the console. I pull up the current rubber boot I'm using from the bottom, undo the bolts and remove it first. Then the console barely clears the base.

Greg

I went and talked to the guys who did the welding and install for me today and was told that is the route to go. I think it is within my skill set to perform the task so I did not have them do it. Reattaching it does not sound fun.

 

[1971mach1]

IMHO sorry, no offense to the 99%, but me thinks you guys are in the wrong hobby if you can't afford a $69 Hurst shift handle + $26 boot .

 

[matrixx]

Hey 69 dollars is a tank of gas for a week and 26 for lunches no doubt this is a hobby that does require money. But if you are willing to be patient for good deals it can be easier on the wallet. On a side note I have been following this thread as I have a T5 I want to swap out my 3 speed manual for.

 

[droptop73]

IMHO sorry, no offense to the 99%, but me thinks you guys are in the wrong hobby if you can't afford a $69 Hurst shift handle + $26 boot .

I am not offended by that. I find much more satisfaction in building and adapting parts. The whole premise for this thread is to show that significant upgrades can be made on a budget. Folks do not need to pay $4000.00 for a 5-speed kit and still need to do most of the engineering to install it.

IMO the guys that just buy and assemble parts (no offese to all the real cool, well executed cars out there built this way) are the ones missing out. The roots of hotrodding derived from adapting parts from other cars and figuring out what will and won't work. Building parts you can't or don't want to pay max dollar for is how this hobby began (think edelbrock, miller, offenhauser, etc.). I do understand not everyone has a machine shop in their garage or basement, neither do I... yet. Many cool parts can be produced using just basic tools like a jig saw, benchtop drill press and a belt sander. I used a 4" DeWalt grinder and a cutoff wheel to make the brackets for my clutch linkage.

To me it flat doesn't make sense to pay for a part I can easily make for a few dollars and no one will ever say my car looks like all the others out there.

I plan to begin a thread in the near future sharing my design and build of a set of custom subframe connectors.