C7 AF-11450-A1 Solenoid

[Stanglover]

When I was a young working college student and had very limited funds, if I had a failed solenoid, I first drilled out the four rivets holding it together and inspected the contacts to determine why it failed. I found that MOST failures were corroded contacts that could be repaired with sandpaper or light filing. Then using either a pop riveter or four small bolts with nuts I was back on the road. The only solenoids I had to replace were those that the spring contacts had burned in two. You may want to inspect the failed unit if you have not already trashed it. It may be repairable.

Thanks, but it went in the garbage today and now long gone.

 

[Stanglover]

I thought I had got all the info I needed from this post, but yesterday I called the local Ford dealership again with the SW7663 part number and low and behold, they have it available to order for only $85.00 Cdn!!
As the car is now parked up for winter, it can wait till spring.
Again, thanks to all for your input.

 

[Don C]

https://www.carid.com/motorcraft/st...79&utm_content=motorcraft>starting & charging

 

[mrgmhale]

Back in the "old days" those Ford starter relays (aka solenoids) were held together by machine screws with lock washers and nuts. If the copper disc, or bolt head contacts were worn out from a lot of use (arcing), a person would disassemble the unit, flip the internally located copper disc over, and turn the two large copper screws 180 degrees so the previously unused part of the bolt heads inside the relay would nowt contact the copper washer when the relay was activated.

The newer riveted design looks identical with the older bolted together relays. If the relay seems to work physically, but unable to carry a high amperage circuit when the relay is activated you should be able to drill out the 4 reivet retainers, flip the copper washer over, rotate the two larger terminal heads, then using bolts and nuts reassmble the relay. As long as there are no open circuit issues the relay ought to be able to last a long time.

 

[Stanglover]

https://www.carid.com/motorcraft/starter-solenoid-mpn-sw7663.html?gclid=7f9f84d0c6411a93e51ee3e9d628f3d0&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=7f9f84d0c6411a93e51ee3e9d628f3d0&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA: Starting & Charging | YMM | 10%-Up | tROAS= 706.215%&utm_term=4580702896214879&utm_content=motorcraft>starting & charging

Thanks Don, that's a good link and now "saved".

 

[Stanglover]

Back in the "old days" those Ford starter relays (aka solenoids) were held together by machine screws with lock washers and nuts. If the copper disc, or bolt head contacts were worn out from a lot of use (arcing), a person would disassemble the unit, flip the internally located copper disc over, and turn the two large copper screws 180 degrees so the previously unused part of the bolt heads inside the relay would nowt contact the copper washer when the relay was activated.

The newer riveted design looks identical with the older bolted together relays. If the relay seems to work physically, but unable to carry a high amperage circuit when the relay is activated you should be able to drill out the 4 reivet retainers, flip the copper washer over, rotate the two larger terminal heads, then using bolts and nuts reassmble the relay. As long as there are no open circuit issues the relay ought to be able to last a long time.

The old one that failed is now long gone. I was not aware these could be repaired and to be honest, I don't think I'd trust it anyway.

 

[Stanglover]

"What did I 'try' to do to my car today"!!
I tried to start it after its winter nap. First, I checked the battery for a full charge, all ok. Cleaned the posts and reconnected the battery. Interior lights and dash idiot lights all on. Good so far eh! Disconnected the coil HT lead and grounded it so I could crank slowly to get the oil flowing, but guess what, nothing! All the lights went out like it was dead.
For now, it's no big rush. Yesterday was a nice warm sunny day I thought I'd take advantage of. Today is cold and raining again.
This scenario is exactly what happed before when I started this post.
I have to assume (I hate that word) that the Chinese piece of crap has failed again after doing zero miles. Back to the search for a good solenoid as we discussed earlier.
I'm not happy!

 

[70cobrascj]

"What did I 'try' to do to my car today"!!
I tried to start it after its winter nap. First, I checked the battery for a full charge, all ok. Cleaned the posts and reconnected the battery. Interior lights and dash idiot lights all on. Good so far eh! Disconnected the coil HT lead and grounded it so I could crank slowly to get the oil flowing, but guess what, nothing! All the lights went out like it was dead.
For now, it's no big rush. Yesterday was a nice warm sunny day I thought I'd take advantage of. Today is cold and raining again.
This scenario is exactly what happed before when I started this post.
I have to assume (I hate that word) that the Chinese piece of crap has failed again after doing zero miles. Back to the search for a good solenoid as we discussed earlier.
I'm not happy!

I use this Motorcraft one I think I hit from AutoZone with no issues so far.
I don’t use those reproduction ones

 

[Stanglover]

I use this Motorcraft one I think I hit from AutoZone with no issues so far.
I don’t use those reproduction ones View attachment 98359

Thank you.
All I could get last fall was this piece of crap. I didn't expect it to crap out quite as fast. I had fully intended to replace it with a better one this Spring when the car comes out of hibernation.
As for buying anything in the US right now, it's unlikely to happen for several reasons. 1) ridiculous exchange rate, now around $1.50 Cdn. 2) ridiculous shipping cost cross border. And now tariffs are likely to be added. (let's leave it at that).
As for me going over to get one, it isn't worth the expense unless I find someone here willing to pick one up for me and bring it back with their stuff and share the costs.
It's just frustrating, period.

 

[Hemikiller]

so I could crank slowly to get the oil flowing, but guess what, nothing! All the lights went out like it was dead.

All the lights in the car went out when you tried cranking it over? That's not a solenoid issue, that's a connection or grounding problem.

 

[midlife]

Lots of Ford cars and trucks used that solenoid and can still be found in junk yards...Most are still good!

 

[Don C]

"What did I 'try' to do to my car today"!!
I tried to start it after its winter nap. First, I checked the battery for a full charge, all ok. Cleaned the posts and reconnected the battery. Interior lights and dash idiot lights all on. Good so far eh! Disconnected the coil HT lead and grounded it so I could crank slowly to get the oil flowing, but guess what, nothing! All the lights went out like it was dead.
For now, it's no big rush. Yesterday was a nice warm sunny day I thought I'd take advantage of. Today is cold and raining again.
This scenario is exactly what happed before when I started this post.
I have to assume (I hate that word) that the Chinese piece of crap has failed again after doing zero miles. Back to the search for a good solenoid as we discussed earlier.
I'm not happy!

Did you check the battery with a load test or a voltmeter? A battery with a bad cell can show 11-12 volts with a voltmeter but a heavy load, like the starter, will make it act like it's dead. Try also turning the headlights and heater blower on and see if that causes it to die. Other wise, Hemikiller is likely correct. If you have an infrared thermometer check all of the battery connections right after you try to start it. A bad connection may show a warmer temperature.

 

[Stanglover]

Thanks for the input and suggestions one and all.
To be honest, I didn't spend a lot of time on it at this time of year. The 'failure' was the same I experienced last fall, hence the "assumption" the solenoid was bad. Checking the lights probably won't tell anything as they are directly powered off the battery via relays. The battery was only tested with a volt meter and showed 12.5 volts. My battery charger showed a full charge. It is getting to the end of its life though, so yes, it could be a dying battery.
We are still weeks away from warmer weather and at that time I'll get serious about finding the real problem. In all the 16 years I've owned this car, this is the first time it's not cranked and started, other than last fall.
I appreciate all the input, thanks.