If you're interested in a "previously used" set, I have the front harness I purchased from 172Mustangsprint here on the forum. I removed the Sport lamp connections, but the remainder of the harness is intact. Just PM me and we can work it out.
As far as your question, I'm 99% certain about the wiring part but without an alternator, 100% certain Yes. However, if memory serves me, I'm thinking you may need to run a jumper from the Voltage Regulator to the distributor?
Seems to make sense that if there's no alternator connected, the wires wouldn't be needed, and I mention that since drag racers rarely (if ever) have alternators since it scrubs some H.P. off the motor. So, stands to reason no wiring is required either. Yeah, even with the insane 11,000h.p. Drag race engines of today, that couple of horses makes a difference.
Also, a bit of un-necessary "knowlories"(useless knowledge from memories), can't remember the cut-off year but you can actually disconnect the battery, while the car is running with a functioning alternator installed. I mention a "cut-off year" because I vaguely remember that became impossible at some point in time over the years. There was a time, even when gas was at $0.47.9gal, those of us who had 4spd cars and only enough money for gas, but not a new battery, opted for gas since we could push-start the car. When the passengers would chip in cruise-night, it always worked out well, especially with 2 or 3 if the car stalled on a flat area, more push power! Lol. Speaking from my original hometown, the majority of the Saturday night racers on 79th street/Des Plaines Ave./Rt.83 had no alternators, only batteries.
Either way, bring the tape to insulate any open positive leads otherwise you'll short something. It may be a 12v battery but remember it's the amps that make the magic happen, especially a H.P. battery with near 1000cca., it's wise to just leave positive leads connected and disconnect from the negative side.
