Dynacorn parts and measurements for chassis straightener

[Ballaratcastle]

Hi All

A newbie to mustangs. I recently imported an unfinished project from the states. 

Our certification process to register the vehicle for the roads in NZ is rather complex and if the vehicle is tagged at the border as having had repairs it requires a repair certifier to inspect the vehicle. 

Sadly my certifier (who is a good guy) discovered my 73 convertible had suffered a frontal impact some time in its life and had been repaired badly. The US owner I bought the car from had the car panel and painted to the tune of 12K 5 yrs ago. As he was away overseas and left it to the restorers, had no idea that the drivers chassis rail (you call it a frame rail) had a distortion where the crumple hole is and we have now discovered when we went to put it on a chassis straightener (Car-o-liner) that it is cracked right through and everything is way out of alignment. (That explains why the drivers fender was bolted 1cm further forward with redrilled holes. 

The panelbeater recommended that the cost of unstitching the aprons and then welding on new frame rails and rewelding aprons was not that cost effective as opposed to getting a donor front half and welding the frame rails back on the fire wall. 

While searching parts websites I see Dynacorn have a complete Shock Tower Apron Frame rail assembly for between $650-700 usd for each side. 

On the CJ pony parts website there is only one review saying it was a crap fit and the rear aprons had to be unstitched then cut down and rewelded once the frame rails were welded in place. He complained Dynacorn were not forthcoming in assisting his repairer and it cost him an extra $800 in labour. As this review was over a year ago I wonder if they took the advice on board and adjusted their tooling of the aftermarket panel. I emailed Dynacorn and have had no reply. I have seen reviews of the similar assembly for a 65-68 model where they said theirs was a perfect fit. 

So my question is have any of the members had to fit one of these as well and not had the same problems. Maybe the reviewers firewall was out of alignment? Who knows. 

My second question follows on from this. The panelbeater has absolutely no measurements to go off having not done a 73 mustang. Does anyone have any knowledge who might be able to supply the specs for the car so they can align everything properly. 

Cheers

Steve

 

[vintageman]

When I was checking my Mach 1 out for measurements, i think this is the document that I used to check all the dimension. I hope this helps.

Tom

 

[Ballaratcastle]

When I was checking my Mach 1 out for measurements, i think this is the document that I used to check all the dimension. I hope this helps.

Tom

Wow thank you. I didn't expect a reply that fast. I will print it out and see if it is readable for the panel guys. Appreciate it. Cheers Steve

 

[asusnz]

Hi Steve, whereabouts in NZ are you? I am in Wellington and nearly finished with the body work on my 72 vert and maybe able to help. Send me a PM it maybe easier to ring?

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

That page should be on the Forum in several places.

All I hear is that a lot of the Dyancorn parts do not fit and can be way off as much as an inch in some areas.

David

 

[rvrtrash]

I have no experience with Dynacorn, but to me, not wanting to reply to an inquiry, which would put something in writing that could be used later if necessary, would be a huge red flag. On another note, I haven't seen a repop body part yet that didn't require more work to make fit than it was worth. I'd search for a used clip, even if it costs more initially. Have you contacted Don at OMS?

Steve

 

[Ballaratcastle]

Hi Steve, whereabouts in NZ are you? I am in Wellington and nearly finished with the body work on my 72 vert and maybe able to help. Send me a PM it maybe easier to ring?

Hi Mate 

I am in Auckland. Thanks. My number is 027 6003220 but I have a work phone I can call you on so it wont cost you.

 

[Ballaratcastle]

I have no experience with Dynacorn, but to me, not wanting to reply to an inquiry, which would put something in writing that could be used later if necessary, would be a huge red flag. On another note, I haven't seen a repop body part yet that didn't require more work to make fit than it was worth. I'd search for a used clip, even if it costs more initially. Have you contacted Don at OMS?

Steve

Hi 

No I am not sure who OMS is sorry. New to the whole parts thing. I have been buying a lot of parts through CJPony parts. At least with getting most of the front half new (two full shock tower apron assemblies and the two cross members) the front half of the car will be new then. 

I had the car inspected in the US prior to buying but the accident damage to the chassis rails was not seen, even with the motor out. I cant risk bringing in a 45yr old front half and finding it unusable due to similar damage.

 

[Hemikiller]

Ohio Mustang Supply

https://www.ohiomustang.com/

Don was supplying 71-73 parts before they became popular. I bought several sheetmetal parts from him that were unobtanium.

 

[detritusmaximus]

Hi Steve-

I have a 73 parts car I need to disassemble/get rid of. The front clip looks to be in good condition with some rust at the battery support. Haven't looked yet for accident damage, but I cant imagine its hard to spot if you're looking for it.

Given the cost of shipping though, even if the parts are free, it still might be better to spend the money on labor to fix what you have. Sounds like it will take pretty much the same work to install new/used replacement as to disassemble and reassemble what you have.

 

[Ballaratcastle]

Hi Steve-

I have a 73 parts car I need to disassemble/get rid of.  The front clip looks to be in good condition with some rust at the battery support.  Haven't looked yet for accident damage, but I cant imagine its hard to spot if you're looking for it.

Given the cost of shipping though, even if the parts are free, it still might be better to spend the money on labor to fix what you have.  Sounds like it will take pretty much the same work to install new/used replacement as to disassemble and reassemble what you have.

Thanks for the kind offer. I think I will go with the new assemblies then I know the whole front is new and your right the shipping may be more and the time to cut existing front off. I have to go with what the certifier wants otherwise he wont comply it for NZ roads. By the way I am trying to source the square headlamp surrounds but don't know what their official name is as I haven't found them on the usual parts sites in the US so far new. Cheers

Steve

 

[detritusmaximus]

I forgot about the certification you have to deal with down there. Its a bit more free and easy here. I've heard people complain in other countries at how strict inspections are, but I've also seen cars driving around here with broken frames. As long as the safety stuff passes you could drive a car that has been tack welded back together.

I believe you are looking for headlight bezels or headlight doors. For a 73 there are two types, one is natural metal the other is black. I have one that is natural, but forget which side.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

On the headlight bezel the unpainted can be masked off and painted to be correct. Be sure the bezel has the little spring clip at the bottom most are broke and gone.

David

 

[Ballaratcastle]

Hi Guys I have attached a picture of the part but I cant seem to find them for sale new anywhere. I downloaded this picture from Ebay where someone is selling a single 2nd hand one for 122usd and not the other side with it.

I am not even sure of the correct name as hardly any pictures come up when I search Mach 1 headlamp bezel or headlamp surround.

I have ordered the new headlamp bucket assemblies and shocktower apron assembly and crossmembers from Stang a Holics who matched Classic discount parts' price but they had cheaper freight to my shipper in California.

 

[Don C]

Try searching for headlight doors, you should be able to find some.

 

[secluff]

Steve, Ford called them Headlamp Doors. When searching for them you will also see them referred to as Headlight Doors. Ford used a bright finish (R/S D3ZZ-13064-A)

(L/S D3ZZ-13064-B) and a black painted (R/S D3ZZ-13064-C) (L/S D3ZZ-13064-D). Discontinued by Ford and not being reproduced to my knowledge. Don @ Ohio Mustang Supply or Mike @ Motor City Mustang would be where I would start. They are Forum members/Vendors and have parts cars and a ton of knowledge on the 71-73's. There are other members such as Rich (Rackerm) that have E-Bay stores and know these cars inside out. Give 'em a try!

 

[Ballaratcastle]

Steve, Ford called them Headlamp Doors. When searching for them you will also see them referred to as Headlight Doors. Ford used a bright finish (R/S D3ZZ-13064-A)

(L/S D3ZZ-13064-B) and a black painted (R/S D3ZZ-13064-C) (L/S D3ZZ-13064-D). Discontinued by Ford and not being reproduced to my knowledge. Don @ Ohio Mustang Supply or Mike @ Motor City Mustang would be where I would start. They are Forum members/Vendors and have parts cars and a ton of knowledge on the 71-73's. There are other members such as Rich (Rackerm) that have E-Bay stores and know these cars inside out. Give 'em a try!

Fantastic thanks so much. I did see some of the 60s models on parts sites refer to headlamp doors but thought it was for the whole unit the older ones have. I have asked the old owner to try and find the old ones that were missing in the heap of parts i got with the car. Seems strange they went missing when she was pulled apart 5 yrs ago. I will definately contact Don or Mike. Thanks for the tip. Cheers Steve