Ebay J-Code(?) Driver Project

[Mister 4x4]

Nice score on a good lookin' car!  It's no secret that I'm not a fan of the dog dish hubcaps, but they look really good on this car - maybe I'm turning a corner or something.

 

[mjlan]

I think they look good too!

I finished fixing some issues I found with the front suspension (loose idler arm, leaking shocks w/non-existent bushings and sketchy brakes) but during the brake bleeding broke a bleeder off of one of the rear wheel cylinders. I then noticed that the bleeder on the other side was broken off as well, so I decided to replace both of them. After figuring out that there are different wheel cylinders (there is variation in the angle that the line enters the cylinder at) I found one that would work and then broke the brake line getting the old one out. I now have new hard lines on the axle and a new hose as well as the new wheel cylinders. It finally stops like it should!

I moved on to trying to sort out all that is wrong with the wiring for the dash and radio. There was a vacuum hose laying on the floor which I traced through the firewall to this vacuum tree on the firewall:

 

Unless I'm mistaken- I don't think this is original? 

As a non-AC car, I don't have any vacuum-operated stuff in the interior. I think this 'tree' was added when the replacement engine went in as the intake fitting in the pic doesn't have nipples for the smaller lines (trans, RA actuators).

 

[mjlan]

Can anybody confirm that this non-AC automatic transmission car should have that vacuum 'tree' on the firewall? It seems unnecessary given that there weren't many things needing vacuum, only the trans and engine stuff and ram air scoops.

Moving on to something I've been messing with, the car should have a ram air system. The hood on the car is a repop along with the ram air kit. The car came with a ram air air cleaner, but of the small block type that has an added section to raise the seal portion of the cleaner as well as move it forward since the carburetor on a SB sits closer to the firewall than on a BB. This fit on the car no problem as the intake on the engine now is a garden variety iron 4V that is low enough that the incorrect seal location relative to the RA plenum isn't an issue. 

In checking out the Dynacorn air filter I noticed that it looked like with some careful surgery the intermediate section could be removed and the seal lip piece re-attached to the base resulting in a ram air air cleaner that fits a BB. I haven't welded it all back together because at some point I'm swapping in my other engine which has a Weiand Stealth on it which is a lot taller than the intake on the car now. This *may* require more surgery to allow me to move the seal down further. Some pics to hopefully illustrate what I'm talking about... 

Housing:





Check it out- the intermediate, small-block only section has the same clearance area for the snorkel opening (red on the seal section and blue on the intermediate piece) and further around a 'v' feature is the same on both sections:



I started off trying to grind out the spot welds but gave up and ended up drilling them out. with seal lip section removed:



With the three sections separated:



And finally (if the seal lip was welded back on) a housing that lines up the seal with the plenum opening on a BB:



I had looked at the below info previously for reference into possibly making my own BB housing:

http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/information_2.htm

 

[Stanglover]

Nice project you have going on there. But looking through the pics, I'm curious about the rear spoiler. It's not an original, so what was it off or is it an aftermarket? Looks good though.

 

[Horsin' Around]

Looks like an 82-84 Firebird rear spoiler to me.

 

[mjlan]

I had to get rid of it. No idea what it was originally from. But what to do with the holes in the decklid now.





The rear bumper is painted for some reason. I've had my eye out for nice straight original part but nothing's turned up yet.

 

[mjlan]

Got some improvements completed- 3G alternator and Duraspark 1 ignition upgrade- 14.3V @ 600 RPM.

Then cleaned the dust off...

 

[mjlan]

Circling back to the interior- just trying to confirm the finishes and part colors on the 'Mach 1 Sports Interior Group.'

Since the initial info I received (thanks for all of the knowledge fellas!) I found a storage pocket in my parts stash and re-did the center gauge trim. Half the screws were missing or the wrong sizes. At least now things are consistent. And I added some aftermarket gauges so I know how bad (!) the hot oil pressure is. Oh and its hard to take good interior pics outside...



Thanks to Muskrat1 for the wheel, it looks great and is a huge improvement over the one that was in there!

Back to my question: part colors.

Dash pad should be black? Are standard interior pads the same color as the interior?

My dash panel (the steel structure) is painted blue- I assume this is correct as it seems like a PITA to change.

Center dash/ gauge trim panel: if its woodgrain its black? Standard interior trims are interior color?

Dash end caps- mine are some shade of blue- should they be painted interior color or black?

Original molded plastic bits and pieces (kick panels, seat backs, consoles, interior rear quarter trims) would have been molded in body color right? So my blue interior should have blue plastics?

Finally, the seat hinge cover plates- did these change over time? I scored a nice pair on Ebay but the mounting hole in my seat back frame has no threads. Either I'm not seeing an obvious way to mount these guys or somebody has messed with my frames...



And in the rear, were the package tray and rear panel (not sure what to call these, the parts I'm pointing to) black or interior color?

I'm assuming somebody has replaced my sail panels with black ones and  they should be blue?



And finally a random exterior pic because the weather's great and driving a Mustang is cool

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Here is what I think is right for colors. I copied your questions will answer below each one. I have a 72 blue Mach 1 in the back yard was crashed in 1974 with 32,000 miles.
 

Dash pad should be black? Are standard interior pads the same color as the interior?

The metal part of the dash and pad should be blue.

My dash panel (the steel structure) is painted blue- I assume this is correct as it seems like a PITA to change.

The metal part of the dash should be blue with the plastic pieces being camera black.

Center dash/ gauge trim panel: if its woodgrain its black? Standard interior trims are interior color?

The center piece for the gauges should have blue on parts of it with the wood grain that came with Sports Interior.

Dash end caps- mine are some shade of blue- should they be painted interior color or black?

Both of the end caps the plastic and the metal one should be blue. 

Original molded plastic bits and pieces (kick panels, seat backs, consoles, interior rear quarter trims) would have been molded in body color right? So my blue interior should have blue plastics?

They should be all blue except the panel under the rear window and each rear side is black.

Finally, the seat hinge cover plates- did these change over time? I scored a nice pair on Ebay but the mounting hole in my seat back frame has no threads. Either I'm not seeing an obvious way to mount these guys or somebody has messed with my frames...

I do not think I have ever seen a year for your car but thinking it is 71 due to the just Mach 1 on the fender. 71 seats had the release lever in the center I believe. Yes the cover for the hinge is different on that type seat. 

Couple other things I see. Of course with Mach 1 sports interior you should have the deluxe door panels. Also the steering wheel should be blue with blue pad. 

The A post covers go on over the kick panel I believe will have to look. 

If you had just the standard interior your steering column would be black I think. You got color match with the Mach 1 SIO.

The paint you need for your interior listed in NPD catalog is Medium Blue Metallic. The lacquer # is AP-16049 they also have the dye for soft surfaces. 

 

[Hemikiller]

David pretty much nailed it and I'll only add a couple corrections. 

My car is a fixed rear seat car, the lower sail panel trims are blue with a black metal edging on the bottom. Package tray is blue as well, with only the rear trim being black. Keep in mind you'll see variations, as Ford changed things up over the years. This car was 100% original and untouched other than a replacement engine. 

Hinge covers on early cars snapped on, later had a screw. 

Deluxe/Mach 1 SI cars will have an interior color column and steering wheel. Pics below are of my car that I converted to M1 SI. This was when I first got the car together, so some details are not correct. Left dash cover should be blue. Blue seat hinge covers are missing. Door panels should be deluxe and the center gauges have a camera case center, not the correct woodgrain. Wheel is a Cougar rimblow. Seat medallions are missing. 

I used SEM Colorcoat interior paint and their prep products. Being a Northeast car, the interior was in very good condition, so I was able to verify that their paint match is excellent. I'll get the mix number for you later tonight. You can use the same paint for metal, plastic and vinyl, and can vary the sheen of the paint with their clear coat. 

Don't forget to also check out the Megasite interior section.

http://www.429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/interiors.htm

/monthly_2020_06/large.DSCF1438.JPG.997ce3d2b0b9652e69a3a3c388ad7246.JPG/monthly_2020_06/large.DSCF1439.JPG.d0b8e363d6dacab904784e2fa96c8af8.JPG

 

[mjlan]

Thank you very much for the information!

 

[mjlan]

I am planning to spend some time on this over the winter, I am working with a local engine builder- he's doing a short block for me as well as going through a pair of D0OE-R heads I had in my stash. Using the above info I'm also planning on updating the interior as there's a lot of wrong/ incorrect/ ugly parts. We'll see how much actually gets done.

Another interior question- seat belt color. Were they always black or did some trim combos get interior color belts?

 

[mjlan]

I didn't really make much progress on this over the winter. I ordered some new Deluxe door panels from Mustang Market so will be attempting to get those installed here at some point.

I have a 501" stroker engine in the works but its taking a while. I have an old FRPP crate 460 engine that I think I'm going to stick in the car as it is just too gutless with the 429 that's in there now. I'm accumulating the bits and pieces to do that now.

Chris hooked me up with nice straight bumper- thank you sir!

 

[Stanglover]

I didn't really make much progress on this over the winter. I ordered some new Deluxe door panels from Mustang Market so will be attempting to get those installed here at some point.

I have a 501" stroker engine in the works but its taking a while. I have an old FRPP crate 460 engine that I think I'm going to stick in the car as it is just too gutless with the 429 that's in there now. I'm accumulating the bits and pieces to do that now.

Chris hooked me up with nice straight bumper- thank you sir!

View attachment 51580

View attachment 51579

Ah, so you were able to find a good bumper. That's great news and looks awesome.

 

[cwalker509]

I am glad the bumper went to a good home!

 

[mjlan]

I did get the engine changed, but the car has sat since then. I was hoping to have it out this year but the season is fast disappearing. I'm stalled at getting an exhaust built which seems lame now that I'm typing it...

Updated engine



I also found a pair of old school wheels (they are ET's) for the front since I wanted a change. I have a pair of 15x8 steel rims for the back.

 

[mjlan]

Finally got the exhaust built, I got lazy and just ended it at the rear axle. It's 3" so not much quieter than open headers



Once I got the exhaust on I could hear that the rocker arms or VS retainers were hitting the valve covers so I had to put these on. I was hoping for a more stealthy, stock look but that's out the window now



And a shot with the new wheels. I have a pair of black 15x8's for the back (those are the 14x7's with no caps/rings) but I haven't dug them out.

 

[c9zx]

There are 429/460 valve cover spacers out there if you want to use the stock valve covers. Chuck

 

[mjlan]

Well, I have not been getting much done.

I got my crate 460 in back in 2021, but it had a road race pan and thus no clearance to the PS header.

I pulled the engine over the past winter and changed the pan to a regular deep sump (not a 'T' sump like the road race version previously):


However, I have not been able to get it running again for some reason. I first thought it was ignition related and changed ignition systems a few times with no success. Then I thought I flattened a cam lobe, but after pulling the plugs and valve covers I don't think that's the case either. I am now down to maybe old gas- I last fueled it in 2021, so maybe that fuel is old enough to be giving my problems. Argh...

The other project that I started was changing the door panels back to the correct Deluxe ones, but I have not gotten that finished either.
Start:


As-received Mustang Market repop panel, you have to cut out the openings for the inside handle which is a little intimidating!


Cutting out handle area:


I n=made it as far as test fitting the PS panel:


I still need to paint the repop inside handle cups (they come black), and add the chrome molding. One of these days I'll get to it!

 

[Sheriff41]

Well, I have not been getting much done.

I got my crate 460 in back in 2021, but it had a road race pan and thus no clearance to the PS header.

I pulled the engine over the past winter and changed the pan to a regular deep sump (not a 'T' sump like the road race version previously):
View attachment 76645

However, I have not been able to get it running again for some reason. I first thought it was ignition related and changed ignition systems a few times with no success. Then I thought I flattened a cam lobe, but after pulling the plugs and valve covers I don't think that's the case either. I am now down to maybe old gas- I last fueled it in 2021, so maybe that fuel is old enough to be giving my problems. Argh...

The other project that I started was changing the door panels back to the correct Deluxe ones, but I have not gotten that finished either.
Start:
View attachment 76646

As-received Mustang Market repop panel, you have to cut out the openings for the inside handle which is a little intimidating!
View attachment 76647

Cutting out handle area:
View attachment 76648

I n=made it as far as test fitting the PS panel:
View attachment 76649

I still need to paint the repop inside handle cups (they come black), and add the chrome molding. One of these days I'll get to it!

On those door panel cutouts, dig out a little of the foam behind the vinyl and the door handle cups will fit up nice and flush.

 

[mjlan]

Thanks for the tip!