Front disk brake caliper and rotor replacement search

[GrantOv]

I've removed my original calipers and down to the spindle now. The rotor don't look bad and they are flat and don't seem to show a lot of wear. I was looking at replacing the the rotor and calipers. (along with the bearings, shield etc)

Here is a reasonable set of rotors I think may be a direct replacement. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-brc-61002pr/make/ford/model/mustang/year/1972

I did see this decent Wilwood combination https://www.cjponyparts.com/wilwood...iston-hard-anodized-11-3-1970-1973/p/DBF202B/
I guess the downside of this route would be that I would need to remove and have a machinist modify the spindles. Not sure who I would get to do that.

In searching for the caliper and bracket that would work with either my original rotors or the first set (weblink above) through Summit it seems I am not searching correctly because I don't seem to find many combination calipers and brackets that actually just bolts on to my spindles as is. Lots of searches ust show a single actuator caliper which to my knowledge is 1/2 of what I need to replace since this doesn't include the caliper bracket.

Ideally I could find a dual actuator caliper set that I could put on a reasonable new set of rotors. Thoughts?

 

[Steve McMahan]

If you don’t have a caliper, take the rotors to a local auto parts store that turns rotors and have them check them for wear. A feel test is ok, but the measurements are best. If you can save the stick(?) rotors, that would be best.

Unless you have a need for better braking than stock. If you do, tell us how you intend to use your car. That will help the experts, not me, help you figure out the upgrade.

I’m a believer in the stock brakes cause I’m just a cruiser.

 

[GrantOv]

Thanks Steve - I guess you could say I plan to be a cruiser also Good point at getting them turned - as they seem to have a lot of meat on them yet. I didn't have any particular issue with the brakes except there was a bit of clunking and I also thought it would be good to replace the pads. I'm leaning toward turning the rotors and getting new stock caliper replacement, pads and hardware. I was looking to see if the brake caliper brackets needed to be replaced but it looks like they aren't readily available so I'll just clean up the ones I have if i go the stock route.

 

[Hemikiller]

The caliper bracket does not get replaced like on some modern cars. The slider pins and rubber bushings are part of the caliper hardware kit. Yes, those sheetmetal brackets are important.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...rake+&+wheel+hub,disc+brake+hardware+kit,1736

Never bothered with drilled or slotted rotors, just not something I felt was needed. I do have upgraded pads on the front discs of my 71. I'm using Hawk HPS frictions and they work very well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MW5WC8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[rcadd1ct]

Turn the rotors.

I got rebuilt calipers from orielly.

Get new pads.

Most aftermarket brake conversions are based on drum spindles. So if you look at fitment on summit make sure they fit disc spindles.

 

[Steve McMahan]

I have the same pads as Hemikiller, they work great. Be careful of who you get pads from. You’ll see some that say they fit, but I’ve heard from folks here there are issues.

 

[t.kohlmeyer]

Total agreement on using Hawk pads. I have a 2010 Fusion Sport as my daily driver. The Hawk pads made an incredible difference over the factory pads. Very fade resistant and practically no dust on the wheels. I highly recommend them.

 

[delawarebill]

last year i replaced the calipers and pads and went to autozone. bolted right up and no issues.

 

[GrantOv]

Thanks - I ended up getting a pair from NAPA and saved on the shipping. They look great. I also went with recommendation on the Hawk pads. Hope to get my spindles cleaned up and rotors turned this weekend so I can get things all together.

 

[Billw69]

Tip: original (FOMOCO) rebuilt calipers are available at Oreillys, if originality is what your after.

 

[Spike Morelli]

Thanks Steve - I guess you could say I plan to be a cruiser also Good point at getting them turned - as they seem to have a lot of meat on them yet. I didn't have any particular issue with the brakes except there was a bit of clunking and I also thought it would be good to replace the pads. I'm leaning toward turning the rotors and getting new stock caliper replacement, pads and hardware. I was looking to see if the brake caliper brackets needed to be replaced but it looks like they aren't readily available so I'll just clean up the ones I have if i go the stock route.

Oh yeah, the factory brake units are more than adequate. There is a percentage of owners who, frankly, just want to replace the calipers and rotors with aftermarket brakes for little more than bragging rights. The factory has already done all of the figuring for you, all you need to do is bring your brakes back to working condition. If street cred at the local burger joint is what you are looking for, you can buy "caliper paint", which is formulated to be used with the heat absorbed by the calipers, and comes in various colors, like red, so it resembles the Wilwood calipers. Of course, going thru all of the trouble to fancy up calipers just for looks, is a lot of work for something that doesn't improve any functioning, and can't even be seen if you don't run open spoked wheels. Brakes are your life........I recommend not going into it with any other mindset than, to do it all, and do it right, rebuilt calipers, turned or replaced rotors, new bearings and seals, new hardware kit, check condition of hoses and Master cyl. "Clunking" can be so many things.....rubber boots on anchor pins gone, strut rod bushings gone, ball joints, control arm bushings, literally anything with the front suspension that is worn out can lead to a clunk when braking. This is one area where anyone should spend whatever is necessary, to bring everything up to, at least, as new factory condition.

 

[detritusmaximus]

Oh yeah, the factory brake units are more than adequate. There is a percentage of owners who, frankly, just want to replace the calipers and rotors with aftermarket brakes for little more than bragging rights. The factory has already done all of the figuring for you, all you need to do is bring your brakes back to working condition. If street cred at the local burger joint is what you are looking for, you can buy "caliper paint", which is formulated to be used with the heat absorbed by the calipers, and comes in various colors, like red, so it resembles the Wilwood calipers. Of course, going thru all of the trouble to fancy up calipers just for looks, is a lot of work for something that doesn't improve any functioning, and can't even be seen if you don't run open spoked wheels. Brakes are your life........I recommend not going into it with any other mindset than, to do it all, and do it right, rebuilt calipers, turned or replaced rotors, new bearings and seals, new hardware kit, check condition of hoses and Master cyl. "Clunking" can be so many things.....rubber boots on anchor pins gone, strut rod bushings gone, ball joints, control arm bushings, literally anything with the front suspension that is worn out can lead to a clunk when braking. This is one area where anyone should spend whatever is necessary, to bring everything up to, at least, as new factory condition.

One benefit to painting your calipers is many rebuilders do not put any corrosion protection or paint on their rebuilds. A month later you can't tell the difference between the new ons and your old ones. Eastwood has coatings that look natural and keep the rust at bay without drawing attention to fancy red calipers up front and crusty drums in the back...

 

[giantpune]

Tip: original (FOMOCO) rebuilt calipers are available at Oreillys, if originality is what your after.

You have a link to the part? When I searched on their website, all I saw was some manufactured ones, but no guarantee you get fomoco and not chinesium. And the passenger side was not available for order.

 

[Billw69]

Ahhh yes, it helps to know the counter help at your local parts store…. Had the guy actually check his stock and search other local stores for mine. They turned up right away. Also know a guy that went and bought all he could find and of course now has them marked up on an internet sight.
I can get more info if you need it.

 

[EdM]

Oh yeah, the factory brake units are more than adequate. There is a percentage of owners who, frankly, just want to replace the calipers and rotors with aftermarket brakes for little more than bragging rights. The factory has already done all of the figuring for you, all you need to do is bring your brakes back to working condition. If street cred at the local burger joint is what you are looking for, you can buy "caliper paint", which is formulated to be used with the heat absorbed by the calipers, and comes in various colors, like red, so it resembles the Wilwood calipers. Of course, going thru all of the trouble to fancy up calipers just for looks, is a lot of work for something that doesn't improve any functioning, and can't even be seen if you don't run open spoked wheels. Brakes are your life........I recommend not going into it with any other mindset than, to do it all, and do it right, rebuilt calipers, turned or replaced rotors, new bearings and seals, new hardware kit, check condition of hoses and Master cyl. "Clunking" can be so many things.....rubber boots on anchor pins gone, strut rod bushings gone, ball joints, control arm bushings, literally anything with the front suspension that is worn out can lead to a clunk when braking. This is one area where anyone should spend whatever is necessary, to bring everything up to, at least, as new factory condition.

So a car once making 275 hp now making 475 hp require the same brake system? No street cred here.

 

[Spike Morelli]

I don't really know what mods may or may not have been done to the factory system to race Trans -Am, as the Boss 351 was designed to do, but I can assume possibly metallic, or semi-metallic pads likely were likely used to race, don't know if they kept the power assist or not. It would be interesting to go back and see what was used. MY POINT, my observation, of a large percentage of owners do on the street, is functionally not necessary, rather, accessorizing to follow the current trend, and often "one-up" the next guy. I see it a lot, I hear it every day at work, when people call in with questions about selecting a supercharger (I work at The Blower Shop). In the original first post, the guy was asking readers if he should buy the Wilwood units he saw at Summit Racing for his stock vehicle. Answer.......no, and that's being as honest and pragmatic an answer as there is. He could get them if he is so inclined, it's his deal and I have no dog in that hunt. I don't get the idea that the OP has anywhere near what horsepower you claim to have, so again, just an un-necessary purchase for him. Street cred is spelled K.I.S.S.