getting ready to do my brake, I was told that I need some bearing for the rotors, can someone tell what bearing, is there a brake write up anywhere
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If you are just replacing your old discs for new, the old bearings will have numbers on them that can be matched or cross referenced by any auto parts store or bearing supply company. You will need to push out the old bearings. Take one of each with you.Factory disc, I was told the rotors do not come with bearings
I see. From your first post, it looked like you are totally new at brake and disc replacement. My apologies if I misunderstood you. Having said that, secluff is right, all good quality discs come with the cup or race already installed, but no bearings.Ok thanks, I do brakes all the time this ever did bearings
That is the correct method for castellated nuts. However, I believe that for the stamped steel lock nut/retainer it is to install it with the ends wrapped around the notches on the retainer, turned 90° from the way they are installed on castellated nuts.If you are just replacing your old discs for new, the old bearings will have numbers on them that can be matched or cross referenced by any auto parts store or bearing supply company. You will need to push out the old bearings. Take one of each with you.Factory disc, I was told the rotors do not come with bearings
When replacing the new bearings, you'll need to pack them with high temp wheel bearing grease, nothing else. When I do this, I take a handful of grease and physically force it into and between the bearings to make sure it is fully packed. Make sure there are no contaminates. You may be playing in grease, but the need to be clean is paramount. Once the inner bearings are in their races and all is cleaned on the spindle, put the disc on the spindle, place the outer bearing, washer and nut and tighten slowly until the nut is just snug, back it off and do it again to make sure the bearing is correctly seated and not just against extra grease. Once tight, back it off slightly until the disc turns freely, but with NO play in it. Put the cotter pin cap on and use a NEW cotter pin. I wrap one side around the cap and the other bent over the front. Others may do it differently, but a mechanic buddy taught me that way and that is what I do.
To be clear, I'm NOT a mechanic, but have done this several times on various cars without any issues. If I've missed something or described something incorrectly, I'm confident others will add to this. It's not a hard job, but there is a need to be clean. Use disc brake cleaner on the new rotors before and after installation as any grease on the disc surface will screw up your new pads in a hurry......... I take it you're putting on new pads? If you have any doubts or don't feel confident, have a mechanic do it. Your life may depend on it.
Hope that helps,
Geoff.
Well Steve just got you the numbers. He's a mine of info with stuff like that.
Rethinking that, Don, I believe you're right.That is the correct method for castellated nuts. However, I believe that for the stamped steel lock nut/retainer it is to install it with the ends wrapped around the notches on the retainer, turned 90° from the way they are installed on castellated nuts.Put the cotter pin cap on and use a NEW cotter pin. I wrap one side around the cap and the other bent over the front. Others may do it differently, but a mechanic buddy taught me that way and that is what I do.Factory disc, I was told the rotors do not come with bearings
Geoff.
The drawing in the manual shows only a rear grease seal. The front does not have one as the cap is there. Make sure the seal is installed the correct way.is there a front seal too?
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