Glovebox wiring questions

[mrgmhale]

Mrgmhale: there are substantial differences between each year (71-73) of the relay connectors and wiring. What is correct for 73 is not necessarily correct for the OP's 72.

Noted. thank you.

 

[Don C]

the clock as in console and clock or cluster clock. The way it's mounted in the harness, it's a seriously long stretch to the cluster. slit open the plug, it's just been overheated from the looks of things. No burnt wires and I figured since I have 3M 130c rubber splicing tape I can seal it back up. My only goal, while I have everything apart for the top switch and cluster repairs is to get the map light working. There is power to that plug, but the map light switch must have had too much corrosion so can't get it to work. Creative wiring is the next step so any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

Console clock

 

[California 72]

Who is it here that sells the relays for LED's? Just changed all the bulbs to LED's and all are polarity correct. Not worried about the 1157's since they have a bayonet style mounting system with offset pins. Just received a new flasher from Amazon and it's not correct. Lights won't even come on, so I pressed the original I have back in, and lights work but flash is faint and hyper.

Relay being replaced is on left, replacement relay is on the right. If someone can please provide the link to someone here or Amazon it would save an old man from jumping off the first floor.





The one beow was listed in an earlier post but is no longer available.

 

[California 72]

Okay, after a few more hours of frustration, I found a couple posts that spoke of reversing the poles so, is that my problem with the new flasher (2nd in pis w.grnd wire)?

 

[tony-muscle]

Who is it here that sells the relays for LED's? Just changed all the bulbs to LED's and all are polarity correct. Not worried about the 1157's since they have a bayonet style mounting system with offset pins. Just received a new flasher from Amazon and it's not correct. Lights won't even come on, so I pressed the original I have back in, and lights work but flash is faint and hyper.

Relay being replaced is on left, replacement relay is on the right. If someone can please provide the link to someone here or Amazon it would save an old man from jumping off the first floor.



View attachment 72723

The one beow was listed in an earlier post but is no longer available.
View attachment 72724

Yes, you want the RLNP which is non-polar (NP). It's available in Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P4QLLL9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[tony-muscle]

Okay, after a few more hours of frustration, I found a couple posts that spoke of reversing the poles so, is that my problem with the new flasher (2nd in pis w.grnd wire)?

I reversed the prongs on the first one I bought and made it to work. I think I just cut and soldered on of the blades. Then I got the non-polar one I listed above which worked great.

 

[mrgmhale]

I can tell you that in retrospect I feel very lucky I got our 73 Mustangs' LED taillight panels to work in place of their original 1157 incandescent bulbs. I also replaced all the 1157 incandescent bulbs on our 1969 Shelby GT500 with a blending of different makes of LED bulbs. For the Shelby, because we had a lot of bulbs going through its turn signal flash sequencer, there was enough current demand/draw to allow the oem TS flashers to work. But, I had to play with two different style LED bulbs before the flash sequencer timing from one light to the other would work with the kind of delay between flashes that looked good. When I used all the same bulb make the flashing sequence would be erratic, goofy looking. I just happened to have two different LED lights on hand, and my beginning to mix and match them was more of a "Hail Mary" move on my part, and one that ended up working well. The difference in how bright the LEDs are vs the original incandescent bulbs is what inspired me to keep trying different approaches so I could keep the LEDs in place. I was willing to get an electronic flasher if I would have had to, but I really did not want to have to replace the flashers. The front Turn Signal bulbs are still incandescent bulbs with filament units, which likely is part of why there is still enough current used for the turn signal circuit to allow their bi-metallic strip to work properly.

So far, this has not helped you much, and I know that. This is still a bit more art based on science for me. For example, on our 1973 Mach 1 I had to install electronic TS flashers for its rear taillight LED panels to work, whether I used flash sequencing or not. But, on our 1973 Mustang Convertible I was able to keep the original TS flashers in place. I determined the difference was because I also installed LEF lights on the front TS sockets on the Mach 1, but kept the oem 1157 bulbs in lace for the 73 vert. The 1157 bulbs drew enough current that the oem flashers worked fine But, on the Mach 1 using all LED front and rear reduced the current draw to a point so low that the oem flashers did not get the amperage needed to cycle the internal bi-metallic strip what causes the flashing action. All that said, I did not know there were so many kinds of electronic flashers. And I do not know the magic combination that will work for all circuits. That was no big deal until the other day a friend in our area told me he wanted to use LED lights in his 1970 Mercury cyclone taillights, We have not found anyone who offers a replacement taillight panel, like we have with our 73 Mustangs. So, he has decided to just pop in some LED lights to replace his 1157 bulbs, much like I did with our 69 Shelby. But, his taillight bulb array is only two bulbs per side, as opposed to 3 bulbs per side on our Shelby - which means his results will not be the same as mine. Further, he wants to have flash sequencing, something not offered with the 70 Cyclone, where he has only two pods per side with bulbs in them. The 3rd pod has red reflective material and houses the backup light bulb. So I can't go by what our Shelby uses.

I decided my best bet is to tig up a bench test system where I can work with both LED lights and 1157 bulbs to see what flashers would work with a 3 stage flash sequencer, although I will only be using two flash stages. I got a 0-18 volt, 0-30 amp DC adjustable power supply, a flash sequencer for First Generation Cougars, Shelbys, and Thunderbirds (solid state replacement, not electro-mechanical relays), 10 1157 sockets, 10 1157 incandescent bulbs, and 8 LED 1157 lights. I now have a morass of wires with alligator clips connecting various sockets and bulbs in an effort to simulate how we need to connect everything to make what will certainly be a Franken-Light setup so we can get him his LED taillights and 2 cycle sequence flashing using a 3 stage sequencer.

Why am I sharing all this info? Here is the deal. If you get to the point where you are done playing the "try this, try that" game. if you ship me you flashers and LED units I am willing to set things up on my little test bench and see what works best. Did you want turn signal flash sequencing? If not, things will be easier to work with. If so, that is fine, but once my friend begins to assemble his lighting system he will be purchasing the flash sequencer I purchased to test with (I think it was about $200 or so). Because I undertook this project very recently I have not yet worked out what wires go where with the sequencing, and because it is going to be using only two of its three output connections I am going to end up playing around a lot just to see if I can get it to flash like he wants it to (flash rate is not adjustable on its circuit card, it may vary depending on how much current is flowing through the bulbs/LEDs).

Anyway, if you would like me to try to see which flasher works, and the polarity needed with a series of 1157 LED light bulb replacements, let me know. I have decided to get a different set of 1157 sockets as the ones I got are cheaply made and tend to allow the terminal ends inside the socket to ground out on the socket shell - lots of fun seeing that... Other than that, and in fact despite that, I would be more than happy to help you out like that. If interested email me at [email protected]. The only cost you will incur would be for the parts (LED lights, sequencer if you want to use one, TS flasher(s) and mailing. As an alternative, as I work my way through the project I have on hand I could simply let you know what seems to be working best out here with whatever LED 1157 units I am using with or without the sequencer, and have you purchase the brands and models I have on hand from the vendor I got them from.

Up to this point I have just been puttering here and there on the project, as the Cyclone is not anywhere near ready to be worked on, especially in his cold garage up here in Snow Country. But, knowing I may be able to help you come up with the right mix of bulbs and flasher(s) has inspired me to get back on the project as opposed to doing other "stuff" to keep me busy in Winter Hibernation for our pony cars. It is finally time for me to begin to work out the LED, flasher, sequencer project so I can free up our power supply and various other parts being used.

 

[California 72]

Thank you both for the replies. mrgnhale, I believe I have things set, I actually started to reverse the polarity but didn't have any spade connectors. Plenty of clips though. I was also thinking of just switching wires in the connector but and to be bery honest, I've pulled things apart and put them back together so much over the last couple days, it's not worth the cost of the relay from amazon. Actually, it was non returnable but I followed the prompts and they issued a refund. There is the link tony-muscle provided and with the credit, I'll just order a new one. I searched the site for over an hour trying to decipher all the different options without fully understanding the LED system. Not dense just new tech for me. Understand things now in part because of the endless searching process on the web.

Finally have things back together. flasher relay only issue now. It was nutz for a while. Every time I would correct a short, blown fuses galore, something else would pop. I also found out the radio is somehow wired with the horn and not where it's intended to be. Also found a short in the horn spring from a new power disc I purchased. The original spring was hitting the disc ever so lightly. Had the power disconnected when it was reassembled, to avoid the very issue and when I reattached the batter, it popped but didn't know it. Everything had to be unassembled again because I found the radio wasn't working. Hence the radio comment above. Now, we're all set! Thank you all again!

Edit; Actually, my short was caused, believe it or not, by the battery tender! When I disconnected it from the battery, I clipped the neg end to the radiator support. Swear to the almighty that it actually lit up things that hadn't yet blew a fuse. I couldn't believe it. The pulse was causing circuits I was working on to power up. It blew my mind when I looked at things dumfounded disconnected the battery at one point the other night and noticed the door open and the courtesy lights were lit. These were the new blue LED's so no mistaking it. Can't make this up. Thought I was truly losing my mind and figured it out when I saw the clip sparking intermittently due to a poor attaching.
Morale to the story, if you're doing electrical work, don't clip your neg terminal lead from the battery minder to the car body otherwise you're in for a surprise. I swear I'm only a part-time maroon. Local 6-7/8's. lol

 

[mrgmhale]

Thank you both for the replies. mrgnhale, I believe I have things set, I actually started to reverse the polarity but didn't have any spade connectors. Plenty of clips though. I was also thinking of just switching wires in the connector but and to be bery honest, I've pulled things apart and put them back together so much over the last couple days, it's not worth the cost of the relay from amazon. Actually, it was non returnable but I followed the prompts and they issued a refund. There is the link tony-muscle provided and with the credit, I'll just order a new one. I searched the site for over an hour trying to decipher all the different options without fully understanding the LED system. Not dense just new tech for me. Understand things now in part because of the endless searching process on the web.

Finally have things back together. flasher relay only issue now. It was nutz for a while. Every time I would correct a short, blown fuses galore, something else would pop. I also found out the radio is somehow wired with the horn and not where it's intended to be. Also found a short in the horn spring from a new power disc I purchased. The original spring was hitting the disc ever so lightly. Had the power disconnected when it was reassembled, to avoid the very issue and when I reattached the batter, it popped but didn't know it. Everything had to be unassembled again because I found the radio wasn't working. Hence the radio comment above. Now, we're all set! Thank you all again!

So, you are on your way. Very cool.

 

[California 72]

Well, turn-signals work well, as long as you don't test them with the door open with the key warning buzzer engaged. They went haywire. Unfortunately, the hazards don't work at all. Just light up but no flash. I'm looking at it as if it's a win though. There's time to figure eveything out, just needed the car running for a few scheduled responsibilities. By the way, sort of on topic but being the OP I'm not going to get angry; Anyone have a contact with Ford that can light a fire under Customer Service? This PCM chip for my 2017 Fusion Energi issue is killing me!

 

[tony-muscle]

Well, turn-signals work well, as long as you don't test them with the door open with the key warning buzzer engaged. They went haywire. Unfortunately, the hazards don't work at all. Just light up but no flash. I'm looking at it as if it's a win though. There's time to figure eveything out, just needed the car running for a few scheduled responsibilities. By the way, sort of on topic but being the OP I'm not going to get angry; Anyone have a contact with Ford that can light a fire under Customer Service? This PCM chip for my 2017 Fusion Energi issue is killing me!

Are you also using the electronic flasher for the hazards? There are two flashers, one above the glovebox for the turn signal and one behind the dash for the hazards. Both need to be electronic if you have LEDs.

 

[tony-muscle]

Well, turn-signals work well, as long as you don't test them with the door open with the key warning buzzer engaged. They went haywire. Unfortunately, the hazards don't work at all. Just light up but no flash. I'm looking at it as if it's a win though. There's time to figure eveything out, just needed the car running for a few scheduled responsibilities. By the way, sort of on topic but being the OP I'm not going to get angry; Anyone have a contact with Ford that can light a fire under Customer Service? This PCM chip for my 2017 Fusion Energi issue is killing me!

In relation to the buzzer, here is a crazy thought. My buzzer shorted over time. Could the buzzer be failing and drawing too much energy that is affecting the flasher. Try disconnecting the buzzer and check to see if it is the door switch wiring.

 

[California 72]

Hmmmm, I believe you might be on to something. I'll give it a shot unplugging it. Working on the grille lights now. Headed over to that post for a Q&A. Decided to fire up the space-heaters in the garage to do some work on a day that at least it's now warmer than it was at the start in central coastal VA.