- Apr 24, 2020
- Reaction score
- Pittsford, NY
- My Car
- My all time favorite vehicle is our 1969 Shelby GT500
Console clockthe clock as in console and clock or cluster clock. The way it's mounted in the harness, it's a seriously long stretch to the cluster. slit open the plug, it's just been overheated from the looks of things. No burnt wires and I figured since I have 3M 130c rubber splicing tape I can seal it back up. My only goal, while I have everything apart for the top switch and cluster repairs is to get the map light working. There is power to that plug, but the map light switch must have had too much corrosion so can't get it to work. Creative wiring is the next step so any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.
Yes, you want the RLNP which is non-polar (NP). It's available in Amazon:Who is it here that sells the relays for LED's? Just changed all the bulbs to LED's and all are polarity correct. Not worried about the 1157's since they have a bayonet style mounting system with offset pins. Just received a new flasher from Amazon and it's not correct. Lights won't even come on, so I pressed the original I have back in, and lights work but flash is faint and hyper.
Relay being replaced is on left, replacement relay is on the right. If someone can please provide the link to someone here or Amazon it would save an old man from jumping off the first floor.
View attachment 72723
The one beow was listed in an earlier post but is no longer available.
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I reversed the prongs on the first one I bought and made it to work. I think I just cut and soldered on of the blades. Then I got the non-polar one I listed above which worked great.Okay, after a few more hours of frustration, I found a couple posts that spoke of reversing the poles so, is that my problem with the new flasher (2nd in pis w.grnd wire)?
So, you are on your way. Very cool.Thank you both for the replies. mrgnhale, I believe I have things set, I actually started to reverse the polarity but didn't have any spade connectors. Plenty of clips though. I was also thinking of just switching wires in the connector but and to be bery honest, I've pulled things apart and put them back together so much over the last couple days, it's not worth the cost of the relay from amazon. Actually, it was non returnable but I followed the prompts and they issued a refund. There is the link tony-muscle provided and with the credit, I'll just order a new one. I searched the site for over an hour trying to decipher all the different options without fully understanding the LED system. Not dense just new tech for me. Understand things now in part because of the endless searching process on the web.
Finally have things back together. flasher relay only issue now. It was nutz for a while. Every time I would correct a short, blown fuses galore, something else would pop. I also found out the radio is somehow wired with the horn and not where it's intended to be. Also found a short in the horn spring from a new power disc I purchased. The original spring was hitting the disc ever so lightly. Had the power disconnected when it was reassembled, to avoid the very issue and when I reattached the batter, it popped but didn't know it. Everything had to be unassembled again because I found the radio wasn't working. Hence the radio comment above. Now, we're all set! Thank you all again!
Are you also using the electronic flasher for the hazards? There are two flashers, one above the glovebox for the turn signal and one behind the dash for the hazards. Both need to be electronic if you have LEDs.Well, turn-signals work well, as long as you don't test them with the door open with the key warning buzzer engaged. They went haywire. Unfortunately, the hazards don't work at all. Just light up but no flash. I'm looking at it as if it's a win though. There's time to figure eveything out, just needed the car running for a few scheduled responsibilities. By the way, sort of on topic but being the OP I'm not going to get angry; Anyone have a contact with Ford that can light a fire under Customer Service? This PCM chip for my 2017 Fusion Energi issue is killing me!
In relation to the buzzer, here is a crazy thought. My buzzer shorted over time. Could the buzzer be failing and drawing too much energy that is affecting the flasher. Try disconnecting the buzzer and check to see if it is the door switch wiring.Well, turn-signals work well, as long as you don't test them with the door open with the key warning buzzer engaged. They went haywire. Unfortunately, the hazards don't work at all. Just light up but no flash. I'm looking at it as if it's a win though. There's time to figure eveything out, just needed the car running for a few scheduled responsibilities. By the way, sort of on topic but being the OP I'm not going to get angry; Anyone have a contact with Ford that can light a fire under Customer Service? This PCM chip for my 2017 Fusion Energi issue is killing me!