Hemikiller's 71 Mach 1 upgrade thread

[c9zx]

I'm very glad to hear you can move forward now. Chuck

 

[Hemikiller]

Just got word from the machine shop the engine is all back together and only waiting on the pushrods to be complete, those should be here Weds. Going to take a ride down at lunch time today to give it a look-see.

 

[Hemikiller]

Current status




Funny date code for closed chamber heads....

 

[mrgmhale]

Roller Lifters, very cool. Hydraulic I assume?

 

[tony-muscle]

Nice progress. I see that you are going with 5/16" push rods instead of 3/8". I had 5/16" but now that I am doing some head work and have to change the push rods due to length differences, I am going to 3/8". I just bought the 3/8 Manley guides. I think these [push rods] add a bit of weight to the system but add stability. I will also have to do with the total lift and spring rate.

 

[Hemikiller]

Roller Lifters, very cool. Hydraulic I assume?

Yes, Howards hydraulic rollers

Nice progress. I see that you are going with 5/16" push rods instead of 3/8". I had 5/16" but now that I am doing some head work and have to change the push rods due to length differences, I am going to 3/8". I just bought the 3/8 Manley guides. I think these [push rods] add a bit of weight to the system but add stability. I will also have to do with the total lift and spring rate.

Yes, I'm using Trend .105" wall chromoly 5/16 pushrods. I was going to suggest we go with 3/8" but he already had the heads on before I could talk to him, so 5/16" it is.

 

[tony-muscle]

Yes, I'm using Trend .105" wall chromoly 5/16 pushrods. I was going to suggest we go with 3/8" but he already had the heads on before I could talk to him, so 5/16" it is.

Are those restricted or regular?

 

[Hemikiller]

Brought the engine home yesterday. It'll be going back to his shop in a couple weeks for running in on the dyno. In the meantime, I'll get the the rest of the parts sorted and ready to go. Have to install a new gear on the distributor, fab a taller throttle bracket, stuff like that.




One of these is not like the others. We're leaning towards a bad set of rod bearings. There are a couple other shells that have spots where the babbit flaked off, which I've never seen before. Mains are in perfect shape, as are the other 11 of the 16 rod shells.

 

[tpj71mach]

Yes, same here. I'd done it on cars that had prop rods, so you could rock the hood back vertically. I was so conditioned to remove the hood as Step #1 on anything with conventional sprung hinges that it never even occurred to me to try.

I followed the procedure in the 71 shop manual as an exercise, and it worked perfectly. I had removed the bellhousing, flywheel, clutch and all that as a precaution, but it's not really necessary.

Anyway, proof is in the pudding, I shot a timelapse video just for those that tried to call BS on me.

You made that look easy

 

[tony-muscle]

Are those restricted or regular?

@Hemikiller , I am curious if you are using regular or restricted push rods?

 

[Hemikiller]

You made that look easy

not my first rodeo

@Hemikiller , I am curious if you are using regular or restricted push rods?

Regular, the ball end on my old pushrods has a .075" opening. Didn't measure the new ones.

 

[Hemikiller]

Finally an update, I dropped the engine back off to the machine shop to be put on the dyno for break in. We'll be running it next week after I get back from the NHRA Nationals at Epping.

Also realized I never did anything with the brake backing plates for the rear end upgrade, so I located the 10x2 setup, stripped them of all the rusty junk and sent them through the phosphoric acid bath to remove the rust. Pic below is the difference after a 24hr soak, which was probably a bit more than needed.

 

[Hemikiller]

Received my shipment from Summit with the self adjuster kits, brake cylinder pins and another Lares 807 steering box. The last one I sent back due to it being built incorrectly, with over 35 in/lbs of preload, when the factory spec is 4-8. Normally I'd rebuild my own box, but due to time constraints, I elected to give this route another try. Luckily, this one specs out perfectly at 8 at the sides and 13 over the center.

 

[Hemikiller]

Yesterday was the day, we fired up the re-rebuilt 4V engine. Both of us were a little gun-shy, so we just ran it through some low RPM load simulations to seat the rings and check it for leaks and odd noises. No power pulls were made, I'll do that in the car. Everything looked great, so it got about 30 minutes of run time under it's belt. I'm picking it up tomorrow morning at 9am, and have a buddy coming at lunch time to help stab it back in it's home.

Video is literally the first start. It's kinda crummy, but it makes good noises...

View attachment PXL_20220616_212130297.mp4

 

[tpj71mach]

That's awesome! Sounds great, congrats! I can't wait for my 351C 4V to be fired up for the first time. It is at Dyno now but they are backed up but it should be started and broken in in the next week or so. Hopefully, I will have a video like yours to share in a couple of weeks.

 

[vintageman]

Great job and sounds really good. Congratulations.

Tom

 

[Kilgon]

Glad to see things are moving forward. Always a sigh of relief when it starts and stays running.

 

[Hemikiller]

Almost ready to light this candle. Ran out of time last night, just need wires, throttle linkage and coolant.

 

[tpj71mach]

Looks great in there! I bet you can't wait to have it running in the car.

 

[Fabrice]

You're aware that we do expect a video of the event right? Right?

 

[Hemikiller]

Quick cell phone videos of a startup and the exhaust. I have large 21" case 2 1/4" Dynomax Super Turbos on it for now, they're pretty quiet. Haven't touched the mixture screws, it's pulling about 11" vacuum, may get more once I start tuning.

Startup



Idle