Lost on carb choices.

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Dinger

Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2023
Messages
24
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25
Location
Pennsylvania
My Car
1973 Mach1 351 4v 4speed
Stock 73 351 4v 4 speed Edelbrock performer intake headers What carb should I get ? Hours of research and I am Lost. Former carb was Carter Competition 625. Any help would be appreciated
 
Most Clevelands can handle more than the 600 cfm most calculators recommend. I ran a 750 Holley with vacuum secondaries, the engine shop dropped down to #70 jets from #72 and it ran perfect on my low compression cleveland. Good luck!!
 
I run a mildly modified Holley Street Avenger 670 on my M code 4V with stock intake. Plenty of air on a stockish build once the Holley was taken off its diet of too rich gas.
I've posted on this many times, but what this needed was a 3/32" hole drilled in each primary plate to allow for more air at idle and in turn, allow the transfer slots to be "squared up". I also changed the squirter from a #31 to a #35. Other than that, it's stock jets and all. An AFR reading is nigh on perfect.
 
I’m running a 750 with mechanical secondaries, mostly stock Holley. It’s had minor tuning done to it, so it’s not out of the box stock, but it’s not drastically altered either. Runs fantastic, and while it’s a thirsty carb, the power difference between it and the 600 cfm Holley I replaced is SIGNIFICANT.
 
I tend to go with edelbrock style. Its easier to make adjustments.

I have a holley 650 double pumper on a shelf. That one is probably more adjustments than most daily drivers need. Thats more for somebody who wants to (and has to) tune every last little bit of it.

Some of my cars have holley 600-650 vacuum secondary models. Those are a couple steps easier cause there's a little less adjusting you need to do. Like all holleys, you have to partially take them apart to tune them.
 
I run an Eddy AVS2 650 cfm, but I pulled all of the choke "stuff" out of it so hopefully it's closer to 700 cfm now. :)

I have no experience with Holley. The only reason I went with Edelbrock, is because I already know how to tune them.

I have a portable O2 sensor setup which allows you to tune spot on.

Good luck!!
 
What brand do your buddies have? Edelbrock or Holley? Friends with jets, parts and knowledge of one platform might influence what you choose. You’ll need to get a carburetor that has a Ford kickdown mechanism on it, it is comparable with a retrofit kit.

I have an old 750 vacuum secondary Barry Grant 750 which is a Holley clone. Also have a tackle box full of jets, accelerator pump cams, air bleeds, accelerator pump nozzles and gaskets for Holley carbs.

If I was going to buy a carburetor to replace mine I’d probably get a Holley Ultra Street Avenger with ford kickdown, vacuum secondaries, electric choke, in a reasonable CFM.

Whatever you decide to get it is easier to tune it with a wide band O2 sensor and AFR gauge. You can wire a AFR gauge temporary, install a gauge permanently. A new option is a Carb Cheater which has it built in AFR gauge and connects to your phone via Bluetooth to use as a display.
 
Which setup is that?
I made it . . .

Meter: Auto Meter 4379 Ultra-Lite Wide Band Air Fuel Ratio Kit,2.3125 in. https://a.co/d/fomhXZX

O2: I had an O2 sensor for some odd reason so I use that.

O2 attachment: my son had one of these so I took off the whistle, attached the O2, and use that to clip to my tailpipe. Universal Aluminum Simulator Whistler Exhaust Turbo Whistle Pipe Sound Muffler Blow Off Car Styling Tunning L 2pcs Black 4102-L https://a.co/d/6AOYwGG


So I clip the O2 to the tailpipe, connect it to the AFR meter and a 12v lawn mower battery in my back seat. My son sits in the back seat with the meter and reads me the AFR as I drive. :)
 
I have run both Holley and Edelbrock and prefer Holley of the two. Once it was installed and tuned correctly on a vacuum it has run solid and strong without ever having to mess with it. The Edelbrock had constant failure of parts and is currently the base of a lamp in my son's room... My 2 pennies for ya, good luck!
 
I'm sorry, but this is just my weird mind working, but to me the Edelbrock just looks wrong, like it's been installed sideways by mistake.
I've never tried one, so I'll stick with what I sort of know, Holley. However, if I were to need yet another carb, I think I'd look very seriously at the Summit line. I hear they are very good and easy to tune.
I used to think I'd go to Quick Fuel, but Holley bought them (back) and dropped the 735 cfm, which would have been my carb of choice, between the 670 and the 750.
 
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I'm sorry, but this is just my weird mind working, but to me the Edelbrock just looks wrong, like it's bee installed sideways by mistake.
I've never tried one, so I'll stick with what I sort of know, Holley. However, if I were to need yet another carb, I think I'd look very seriously at the Summit line. I hear they are very good and easy to tune.
I used to think I'd go to Quick Fuel, but Holley bought them (back) and dropped the 735 cfm, which would have been my carb of choice, between the 670 and the 750.
As far as looks go, an Edelbrock looks right at home on a Mopar. I've had more problems with Edelbrock carbs than I ever had with Holley carbs. As to the vacuum vs mechanical secondaries, I like mechanical with a manual transmission and vacuum with an automatic. Just me.
 
Stock 73 351 4v 4 speed Edelbrock performer intake headers What carb should I get ? Hours of research and I am Lost. Former carb was Carter Competition 625. Any help would be appreciated
I'm using a Proform 670 cfm which has larger jetting. The stock carb is a Motorcraft 750 cfm but it has smaller jetting. I felt the power boost when I had the Proform installed last summer. The only negative is that my mileage is down around 7mpg city driving vs. 10 -11 with the 750 cfm
 
I am running a 750 cfm mechanical secondary on my Cleveland with a TKO 600 manual transmission. I would go vacuum secondaries with an auto. The only change that was needed was a #35 squirter, like stanglover. Anything performance around 330 to 380 cubic inches can run that fairly well. Holley carbs are easy to tune, it's just a matter of learning a new carb. I'm sure everyone here can help you with that, including myself. There is a reason fast cars and race cars run Holley carbs.

Their design allows for reliability and tunability. They prevent the fuel from heating up too much by having overhanging fuel bowls that allow the air to flow around them and minimize heat sink. I would still recommend a 1/2 inch phenolic spacer with the four holes. It prevents further heat sink and improves throttle response. If you can't fit 1/2 inch, go with 1/4. Don't forget to raise your throttle bracket with spacers of the same thickness as the phenolic spacer. Holley carbs also look great. It sounds like I'm sponsored by Holley, which I'm not, but I wouldn't say no. Wink, wink.
 
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Almost pulled the trigger on this​

M2008 Series Carburetors SUM-M08750VS . On Summit​

4.75 out of 5 stars ( 149 )


Part Number: SUM-M08750VS


4.75 out of 5 stars ( 149 )


Part Number: SUM-M08750VS
 

Almost pulled the trigger on this​

M2008 Series Carburetors SUM-M08750VS . On Summit​

4.75 out of 5 stars ( 149 )


Part Number: SUM-M08750VS


4.75 out of 5 stars ( 149 )


Part Number: SUM-M08750VS
That's the one I have on mine, it runs great and love the warranty that Summit has on their carbs. I got one and it seemed like the throttle was sticking a little and sometimes required me to kinda press it forward on the throttle to get it to idle down. Had the first for a few months and called them. They said throttle shaft was sticking, I removed the carb and they sent the replacement. Unfortunately, they sent me a rebuilt one instead of a new one as a replacement, it worked very well. Decided one day about 3 months later that I really should have been sent a brand new one, took a trip to Summit with the carb and they agreed and swapped it out for a brand new one and restarted my full warranty time period starting that day with the new carb. No hassle, no questions at all. I did go in and find that the power valves were reversed on the new one during its build but it has never failed to start, idles and runs great. And you cannot beat the fact that you can remove the top to have access to the jets and such without draining fuel all over the place. Good luck.


Tom
 
That's the one I have on mine, it runs great and love the warranty that Summit has on their carbs. I got one and it seemed like the throttle was sticking a little and sometimes required me to kinda press it forward on the throttle to get it to idle down. Had the first for a few months and called them. They said throttle shaft was sticking, I removed the carb and they sent the replacement. Unfortunately, they sent me a rebuilt one instead of a new one as a replacement, it worked very well. Decided one day about 3 months later that I really should have been sent a brand new one, took a trip to Summit with the carb and they agreed and swapped it out for a brand new one and restarted my full warranty time period starting that day with the new carb. No hassle, no questions at all. I did go in and find that the power valves were reversed on the new one during its build but it has never failed to start, idles and runs great. And you cannot beat the fact that you can remove the top to have access to the jets and such without draining fuel all over the place. Good luck.


Tom
My Eddy has vacuum secondaries, and the secondaries hesitate a bit while fuel starts to pull. My understanding is that other carbs have a squirter in the secondaries (like the primaries) to fix this. Does the Summit carb have squirters in the secondaries?
 
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