Mustang Mach 1 1973 351C V2 H-Code

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Thanks to the incredible support on the forum, I've made good progress on reinstalling the air conditioning system, which was uninstalled by the previous owner.

The compressor needs some attention, or I will replace it with a reconditioned model but original. The hoses are now fully installed. The reconditioned servo pump and associated hoses have also been installed.

The wiring harness on the engine is also new and pre-installed so far, the wiring harness for the alternator is still missing, which unfortunately has long delivery times.

The fan and the associated material have been installed.

I have polished over 300 screws and use the original ones for the most part. Where the previous owner used other screws, I use reproductions that I have purchased.

The carburettor now has the original sensor for the engine speed, which has also been installed.

The Motorcraft ignition cables and new spark plugs are also new. New Optima battery and new wiper water tank also installed.

The high-performance Bosch ignition coil naturally has the original black and yellow look.

The bonnet brackets were also returned to their original colour by the previous owner by spraying the engine compartment completely black, and I installed them today.

I also gave the "golden goose" its first stickers.

I'm happy with the results of the last 14 days so far.

Thanks again to everyone who has supported me so well with their knowledge here in the forum!
 

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Some more images
 

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Some good progress was made today. The new front is finished. I'm happy with the result. The engine compartment is also largely finished. Next week in the last step new oil pan and new coolant as well as new 20W 50! Some pictures attached.
 

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The detail work takes a lot of time and effort but it’s something to be proud of when done. Nice job.
 
Kudos on the meticulous documentation of your work. That always comes in handy if there are problems in the future....which I doubt. It will certainly up the value of your fine ride! Your work is very German!
 
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Some good progress was made today. The new front is finished. I'm happy with the result. The engine compartment is also largely finished. Next week in the last step new oil pan and new coolant as well as new 20W 50! Some pictures attached.
Wow that looks fantastic! I’m in the middle of cleaning my engine front end up to put in a new classic auto air system and also figured a good time to refinish the grill, headlight buckets, etc. Your pictures and progress gives me some much needed inspiration!

I love everything you’ve done. I have a couple questions about the hood latch assembly. How did you get it so clean? I’ve been reluctant to sand blast mine because the one smaller spring looks really fragile and rusted and haven’t seen a replacement. Also mine was painted black to start with and I’m assuming yours is correct color. What paint did you use if you don’t mind me asking.

Great work and result!
Bob
 
Hey guys, some updates for the weekend. I have used the time and completed the wiring WITHOUT the alternator, as I am missing the right cable. Supposedly it's on its way, I'm curious. The remaining cables should now be correct, at least if I look at the wire diagram. I would be more than happy to receive any comments whether something is wrong! I will soon want to start the first attempt to see if the engine can be started.
 

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Hi guys, today I tried to start the Mustang as announced. I didn't make it. I have double and triple checked all the cables, the battery is fully charged. After I switched on the ignition, the car remained completely silent. Neither the starter motor nor the dashboard displays or the radio responded. The car remains practically "dead" despite the charged battery. Maybe you can help? Post in thread 'Can I start the engine briefly without the alternator?' https://7173mustangs.com/threads/ca...efly-without-the-alternator.45111/post-455143. Furthermore, I have finished high parts of the rear and started to remove the interior.
 

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Torbism, I noticed in one of your photos, you have siliconed the trans gasket in place and clamped it to cure. Transmissions are highly sensitive to foreign matter getting into the fluid, especially silicone, which can soften with hot ATF on it and get into the valve body workings, rendering it working improperly. Transmission techs know to always make sure the trans pan is totally flat on it's mounting flange, and the gaskets are always installed DRY, no sealer. The bolt torque is critical as well and should be tightened with an "inch pound" torque wrench. The torque isn't much, and should not be tightened more than specs, if this doesn't seal, you need a new trans pan that isn't bent or dented .
 
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Torbism, I noticed in one of your photos, you have siliconed the trans gasket in place and clamped it to cure. Transmissions are highly sensitive to foreign matter getting into the fluid, especially silicone, which can soften with hot ATF on it and get into the valve body workings, rendering it working improperly. Transmission techs know to always make sure the trans pan is totally flat on it's mounting flange, and the gaskets are always installed DRY, no sealer. The bolt torque is critical as well and should be tightened with an "inch pound" torque wrench. The torque isn't much, and should not be tightened more than specs, if this doesn't seal, you need a new trans pan that isn't bent or dented .
I didn't know that Spike, thanks for the info. I took Dirko, but I can still change that. Great info!
 
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