My engine build thread (NEW PICTURES)

[mach71351c]

looks good!

 

[turtle5353]

Looking good Jeff!! It will be up and running in no time now. +1,000 on plugging the tailshaft!!! Especially if it's an auto trans..... I always seem to forget until the motor and trans are at a 45 degree angle and I have 6 quarts of ATF all over my floor!!!! Keep us posted and keep up the good work man!!!

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

thankfully mine is a manual and it was more like a quart, but that is a huge mess.

Thanks. I think I am going to take a night off tonight.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Productive weekend

the headers are both in place, alternator and AC compressor are installed, clutch linkage is cleaned, greased and reinstalled, wiring is mostly returned to its proper position. I still need to reconnect the AC lines, but that will wait til I get the radiator and fan back in place later on this week.

I installed my vacuum canister in the same place that ford put the vapor canister.

Hood hinges are removed for replacement, but I want to swap over my flat springs to the new ones and clean everything up a bit.

I need some fuel line and clamps and little stuff to finish up, but I am in the home stretch

 

[turtle5353]

Nice job BUT!!!!

:worthlesswithoutpics:

no pics, it didn't happen!! LOL

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

my last pictures were taken with AAA batteries replacing 3 out of the 4 AA's and bits of aluminum foil stuffed in to make up the difference in length and paper to take up the difference in diameter.

As to it not happening, I have muscle spasms in my neck that would disagree with you.

But documentation matters I suppose so here are two pics

 

[Totalled]

What intake is that?

 

[turtle5353]

looks like a torker intake

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

It is an original Torker intake. I cleaned it with purple power cleaner and hot water, then baked the whole thing in the oven to clean it up. It came out amazingly clean.

Keep in mind my valve covers are sitting on 1.2" spacers and the intake probably looks lower than it is. I have a 1" phenolic resin spacer I intend to try and use.

 

[Steven Harris]

Very nice build.

I am looking forward to how it all comes out!

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

That makes two of us

 

[will e]

Looking good. How fast do you intend to spin it?

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I've built it with parts that are all rated to higher power than I am building. It might well be safe to spin to 8,000 rpm, but I'll need to upgrade my ignition system to turn over 7,000. In reality, it should peak at 6500 and there should be little reason to go beyond 7,000 ever, unless it is a life or death chase scene, like some Jason Statham movie

 

[Totalled]

Keep in mind my valve covers are sitting on 1.2" spacers and the intake probably looks lower than it is. I have a 1" phenolic resin spacer I intend to try and use.

That's what threw me off. Did you have to run spacers to clear the roller rockers, or because of the stud girdles?

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

because of the stud girdles. I will probably find some tall fabricated covers down the road, but for now I'm about ready to have it done.

I'm getting pretty close. Yesterday, I installed the radiator, the main ground, the electric fan the remaining shock tower brace, my vacuum lines for the brake booster and vacuum canister, the clutch fork boot and the alternator belt. Will need a shorter AC belt due to a pulley change, but that is low priority in freezing weather.

I have a few piddling things to do under the car such as adjust the clutch, top off the transmission, bolt a retainer in for the speedometer cable (Only friggin part I seem to have lost grrr) Throw the exhaust back under it, tighten down the headers, install the plug wires, clean and inspect then install the carb and fuel lines and I am pretty much ready to try and start it.

Given the cold weather and my unheated garage, I suspect the rest of my to do's will take longer than a day or two and less than a week or two.

 

[droptop73]

It's lookin good Jeff, I understand the unheated garage part. I hope it warms up soon for you!

 

[will e]

I've built it with parts that are all rated to higher power than I am building. It might well be safe to spin to 8,000 rpm, but I'll need to upgrade my ignition system to turn over 7,000. In reality, it should peak at 6500 and there should be little reason to go beyond 7,000 ever, unless it is a life or death chase scene, like some Jason Statham movie

Okay. The reason I asked is because the AC won't take those kinds of RPMs. It is one of the reasons the old cars with high spinning motors didn't have AC. (plus the added weight)

You do not want to spin it at 6500 with the AC on. Modern cars detect the higher RPM and turn the AC off (both for saving the compressor and the added power). It is something you will want to keep in mind. If you are in a Jason Stathan movie you will might consider turning the AC off.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

The Sanden compressor has a continuous duty rating of 6,000 RPM-I'll just have to flee in 5th gear which is a .68 overdrive IIRC and my math is right, I have to keep my top speed under 175 mph to not exceed the rating

I suspect any truly aggressive driving will be with the ac off anyway.

 

[will e]

Excellent. I think the Sanden can be spun faster than the yorks of old. Check you pully sizes, I am not sure if the crank pully is larger than the clutch pully.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I am running a small underdrive crank pulley-it is about the same size as the AC pulley

As I said, the Sanden (according to Sanden) has a continuous duty rating at 6000 rpm, not a red line but it can run CONTINUOUSLY at that speed.

I have been told they can run up to higher rpm on occasion without a problem. I plan to install a rev limiter and keep it under 6600 rpm for the foreseeable future and break in will be at something less than full load at all points in time.