Repairable Rust?

[Fredensborg]

Hi guys,

I found a Bronco I might be interested in, but it has some rust issues to say the least...how bad is this? how deep of a job is it to fix? Can it be fixed?

 

[tpj71mach]

Anything is repairable, but I don't know what kind of parts are available for Bronco's. If they are available you would need front fenders and rear quarters or at least a rear wheel opening patch panel. You would also need outer rear wheelhouses. It looks like a 78 or newer Bronco, I know there are a lot of reproduction parts for 66-77 Broncos but I don't know that there is much offered for the next generation, sadly. If nothing is available, it would all need to be fabricated and finding someone with those skills is harder to find than a body man to weld new reproduction panels in.

 

[Mister 4x4]

You're looking at repairing both the outer wheelhouse pieces in all 4 corners, and fenders up front and quarter panels out back. If they make replacement pieces for the wheelhouses, fenders, and quarter panels, you can either replace those pieces, or trim out the bad stuff back to good metal and graft new metal back into place.

Depending on the look you're going for, you could always cut the bad stuff out and go with a set of Bushwacker Cut-Out Fender Flares to eliminate much of the work needed to repair those bad sections. I'm sure there would still need to be some work done, based on the damage in those pics you showed.



I'm sure one of the first things to go would be those weenie little tires. ;-)

 

[Fredensborg]

Anything is repairable, but I don't know what kind of parts are available for Bronco's. If they are available you would need front fenders and rear quarters or at least a rear wheel opening patch panel. You would also need outer rear wheelhouses. It looks like a 78 or newer Bronco, I know there are a lot of reproduction parts for 66-77 Broncos but I don't know that there is much offered for the next generation, sadly. If nothing is available, it would all need to be fabricated and finding someone with those skills is harder to find than a body man to weld new reproduction panels in.

I've seen repair panels for about $40 online...doesn't look too hard to do, other than the fact that I don't really know how to weld. Fabrication is beyond my abilites.

You're looking at repairing both the outer wheelhouse pieces in all 4 corners, and fenders up front and quarter panels out back. If they make replacement pieces for the wheelhouses, fenders, and quarter panels, you can either replace those pieces, or trim out the bad stuff back to good metal and graft new metal back into place.

Depending on the look you're going for, you could always cut the bad stuff out and go with a set of Bushwacker Cut-Out Fender Flares to eliminate much of the work needed to repair those bad sections. I'm sure there would still need to be some work done, based on the damage in those pics you showed.



I'm sure one of the first things to go would be those weenie little tires. ;-)

I thought of the fender flair thing too, but don't know if I would go that extreme. Your exactly right about the tires though, I think the ones on my Mustang are bigger!

I'm kinda wondering if a novice could conceivably repair this, or if it would have to go to a shop...and what would a shop charge?

 

[73MustangCoupe]

Front fenders and rear quarters and inner wheelhouses are available in the aftermarket. The front fenders are bolt on. Quarters and inner wheelhouses will require welding. With some practice, patience, and perseverance, you can do it yourself, but practice is key. Watch a bunch of YouTube videos, JoDaddy's Garage has a bunch of great videos on panel replacement and car building. I learned much of what I know from watching his videos.

Yes, a novice can do it, but don't expect it to be easy or fast. Practice, practice, practice and do your homework, and you can do it.

 

[Mister 4x4]

A complete novice (Me) did mine, and it came out great! I literally cut out the bad stuff, made patches from the new stuff, and stuck it all back together.









You got this!

 

[Fredensborg]

I've watched a few vids on this, the process actually reminds me a lot of sheetrock work which I have done in the past...the "welding" looks pretty simple, spot welds with a MIG. Maybe I could handle it...I'll let you all know if a new (rusty) horse joins my stable.

 

[Steve McMahan]

Maybe I’m the old, sour grapes here, but what about the rest of the vehicle? Have you crawled under it and looked in the hard to see areas? Any sign of crash damage? What else needs to be done? And by the way, get off my grass . . .

 

[73MustangCoupe]

Ok, so Steve brought it up, but one thing to check. If it's a manual transmission, check the firewall for cracks around the clutch master cylinder. They can be hard to find, but when the clutch is depressed and released, you can see the firewall move. It is fixable, too, but a royal PITA. Also body mounts at the core support may be rusted. They, too, can be repaired, will require a bit of work to get to.

 

[Lazarus]

Maybe I’m the old, sour grapes here, but what about the rest of the vehicle? Have you crawled under it and looked in the hard to see areas? Any sign of crash damage? What else needs to be done? And by the way, get off my grass . . .

+1 on checking other areas. I have a full-size bronco also, and in my experience with these trucks, inner and outer wheel wells that bad can have floor issues also. You will want to see the frame, the floor, the b-pillar/sail panel weld (that’s a bit of a nightmare if bad), and also if the tailgate is original I am sure it’s shot.

If you are handy you can probably do the pictured work, but depending on the deal it might be better to start on a project in better condition. If looking for a deal I personally would find one with a better body but tired drivetrain.

As an aside, my favorite full-size look is 78/79, but these are a little rarer. I have a friend who talked me into getting a 95 or 96 because they are basically the same as 80 onwards but have simple fuel injection, airbags and are a bit more aerodynamic. I am glad he did. My mustangs are carbureted and I don’t mind but the bronco’s being fuel-injected is pretty nice

Fyi, the breakdown by year (I think):
78-79: sometimes called “dentside”. The caps on these and much of the sheetmetal are specific to these two years
80-86: “bullnose” the blocky ones that look very cool from the early eighties
87-91: “bricknose”. Some guys love them but others think the headlights make them look cross-eyed and they command the least money. Ford actually went backwards stylistically in the next design because the bricknoses had some real detractors
92-96 these are sometimes called aeronoses or obs supposedly though I don’t call mine that. The 95/96s are best.

The really cool thing about these trucks is they were VERY similar from 80-96.

Hope that helps.



And please, please try to resist the OJ joke.

 

[73MustangCoupe]

Great info, Lazarus. I've got an 76 Bronco to restore when the Rickster is done. I wish it was in as good a shape as the Rickster was when I started it, but alas..... But I can save the glass and the instrument panel. I am such a gluten for punishment.

 

[fmjcraig]

Maybe I’m the old, sour grapes here, but what about the rest of the vehicle? Have you crawled under it and looked in the hard to see areas? Any sign of crash damage? What else needs to be done? And by the way, get off my grass . . .

You still have grass out West? Thought it burned away.

 

[Fredensborg]

Maybe I’m the old, sour grapes here, but what about the rest of the vehicle? Have you crawled under it and looked in the hard to see areas? Any sign of crash damage? What else needs to be done? And by the way, get off my grass . . .

These are just pictures I got from the seller, I'm going to look at it this weekend or early next week. I plan on getting a good look at everything that I can think of. I'll spend some time crawling all over and under it...

 

[Steve McMahan]

Who said we had REAL grass out here? The only real grass left is sold in small bags, so I’m told