Replacing the front springs on my 1971 Mustang

[Hemikiller]

I have the same style compressor with the "fork". Flip the fork over and put it on top of the shock tower.

 

[Don C]

Was it an ACME thread on the rod you used? Good move on the thrust bearing.

No, I just used 5/8-11 UNC grade B7 threaded rod. The ACME threads would be a good idea for one that would see frequent use. I don't plan on using mine more than a few times. It has minimal side loads as the shock mount rotates as the spring is compressed, and the thrust bearing is thick enough that it will not slip into the threads on the rod. The other modification I did with mine was to use a piece of 1/2" thick steel bar stock for the bottom mount, and thread it and use two set screws to keep the rod from rotating. The bar stock was something that had been floating around in my metal junk box for years and is a very good quality steel. This eliminated the stress to the rod that would be caused by welding it to a piece of square tubing. And, I already had a 5/8-11 tap.

 

[tfowler9]

Sounds good and glad to have helped. Don't replace what doesn't need to be.
By the way, see if the original paint daubs are still on the springs. That will tell you the spec code.

Hope you're still following this. Th springs are not the original. I replaced them back in the mid 80's. So no markings. I think I also mentioned I have been arguing with CJ Pony Parts on the idler arm. In the kit, they sent me the wrong one, a two piece. It took up until last week when they finally agreed they were selling the wrong one for our '71 - '73 mustangs. They sent me the correct one!!
I have it alll back together except for the shocks. For our model they say to use a block under the upper control arm and then lift the car, This keeps all the pressure off the shock when it is installed. Always seemed like a bad design! Anyway, I used to use a short piece of 2x4 and that would work. With all the new parts, a 2x4 is to thick. I tried using a thinner piece of wood and it would just break off. Do you have any suggestions on what to use or any other tricks?
Again that's for the support. Tom

 

[Stanglover]

Hope you're still following this. Th springs are not the original. I replaced them back in the mid 80's. So no markings. I think I also mentioned I have been arguing with CJ Pony Parts on the idler arm. In the kit, they sent me the wrong one, a two piece. It took up until last week when they finally agreed they were selling the wrong one for our '71 - '73 mustangs. They sent me the correct one!!
I have it alll back together except for the shocks. For our model they say to use a block under the upper control arm and then lift the car, This keeps all the pressure off the shock when it is installed. Always seemed like a bad design! Anyway, I used to use a short piece of 2x4 and that would work. With all the new parts, a 2x4 is to thick. I tried using a thinner piece of wood and it would just break off. Do you have any suggestions on what to use or any other tricks?
Again that's for the support. Tom

Hi Tom, I do follow most threads. Glad you're getting close to getting it done. Progress is always rewarding.
I do know that subject about the block has been talked about before and if I remember, someone made a steel tool (block) to do the job. I don't remember who though. Perhaps others will know and post that info.
A long time for me too since I swapped shocks, but as I do not have a block tool, I just used a small floor jack under the LCA to take the weight off.
If you're storing the car raised, or for any extended time, then blocking would be a must .

 

[Steve McMahan]

Hey, I remember, you can get the information to make your own control arm brace right out of the Ford shop manual.



They never site the type of wood.