Revisiting installing a Hayden 2710 fan clutch and Derale 17118 fan.

[Stanglover]

I have an a/c car, maybe that’s why the difference. 

I was thinking you had A/C so yes, that could be different I guess.

What I have now looks to be about right for fan/shroud engagement. I'll have to wait to see how efficient it is WHEN it warms up. 

 

[jpaz]

I was thinking you had A/C so yes, that could be different I guess.

What I have now looks to be about right for fan/shroud engagement. I'll have to wait to see how efficient it is WHEN it warms up. 

I was thinking you had A/C so yes, that could be different I guess.

What I have now looks to be about right for fan/shroud engagement. I'll have to wait to see how efficient it is WHEN it warms up. 

My shroud is brand new from NPD and is the stock replacement. I did measure everything and I made sure to be as close to the right recommendations as possible. I think the pics make it look closer to the radiator than it is.

 It was working good to keep the temp in line with the thermostat. I did have to change the thermostat to a 192*. The engine builder installed a 180* saying that it would be better, but it was running to cold. I only had a chance to drive it a couple times after I went to the 192*, seemed fine.

 

[Stanglover]

My shroud is brand new from NPD and is the stock replacement. I did measure everything and I made sure to be as close to the right recommendations as possible. I think the pics make it look closer to the radiator than it is.

 It was working good to keep the temp in line with the thermostat. I did have to change the thermostat to a 192*. The engine builder installed a 180* saying that it would be better, but it was running to cold. I only had a chance to drive it a couple times after I went to the 192*, seemed fine.

John, the important thing is the fit on your car with the components you have. 

On mine as I said, the clutch is about 3" off the rad, but as the straight top part of the blades are directly within the straight part of the shroud, all should be good. I to went back to a 192 Stant thermostat and found the motor ran much better. I do think now that a 180* is a totally wrong approach and that too is what my rebuilder put in. I guess they're not "Cleveland guys".

I'll update later, but as you know, right now ain't the time!

 

[jpaz]

John, the important thing is the fit on your car with the components you have. 

On mine as I said, the clutch is about 3" off the rad, but as the straight top part of the blades are directly within the straight part of the shroud, all should be good. I to went back to a 192 Stant thermostat and found the motor ran much better. I do think now that a 180* is a totally wrong approach and that too is what my rebuilder put in. I guess they're not "Cleveland guys".

I'll update later, but as you know, right now ain't the time!

My builder said that the Cleveland was originally put into service with a 180* in 1970. After that they went to the 192* for emission reasons. That’s why he said to run a 180. I’ll have to see what happens in the hotter weather.

 

[Don C]

My builder said that the Cleveland was originally put into service with a 180* in 1970. After that they went to the 192* for emission reasons. That’s why he said to run a 180. I’ll have to see what happens in the hotter weather.

That's interesting, I wonder where he got his information from? Ford didn't even list a 180º thermostat. My parts book covers 1965 to 1972. Here's a clip out of it, "F" model is Mustangs.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Seeing those pictures of the viscus drive clutch fan brought back memories. I use to do free lance designs as my second job to get mad money. I designed the heads that cut all the grooves inside the clutch fan halves for Borg Warner. The machine they used cut all of the slots in one shot. It was a machine built during WWII to machine artillery projectiles and built super rigid. You had a series of pockets in the tool head that carbide inserted tools clamped in. If you take one of the clutches apart you will see a series of round grooves that interlock. The silicone fluid inside creates the drive force with it between the grooves. Super simple design for sure.
Later on some really smart engineer convinced them it was time to update and go to CNC. It took the cycle time from a few seconds with the WWII equipment to minutes, he lost his job.
I did some work on gauges for their turbos also. That was really close work did on Moore Jig grinder had to hold .00005" tolerance. Had to be measured in temp. controlled room. That was the gauge tolerance not the part tolerance. They used lots of air gauges and you made set rings to calibrate the air gauge with.
Sorry for off the topic but those fans have little inside to fail but for a leak of the drive fluid or bearing failure.

 

[Stanglover]

Seeing those pictures of the viscus drive clutch fan brought back memories. I use to do free lance designs as my second job to get mad money. I designed the heads that cut all the grooves inside the clutch fan halves for Borg Warner. The machine they used cut all of the slots in one shot. It was a machine built during WWII to machine artillery projectiles and built super rigid. You had a series of pockets in the tool head that carbide inserted tools clamped in. If you take one of the clutches apart you will see a series of round grooves that interlock. The silicone fluid inside creates the drive force with it between the grooves. Super simple design for sure.
Later on some really smart engineer convinced them it was time to update and go to CNC. It took the cycle time from a few seconds with the WWII equipment to minutes, he lost his job.
I did some work on gauges for their turbos also. That was really close work did on Moore Jig grinder had to hold .00005" tolerance. Had to be measured in temp. controlled room. That was the gauge tolerance not the part tolerance. They used lots of air gauges and you made set rings to calibrate the air gauge with.
Sorry for off the topic but those fans have little inside to fail but for a leak of the drive fluid or bearing failure.

Interesting insight David and no hijacking here (my post). Good to know I don't have to worry too much about a failure. Spring will tell me if I spent my money wisely I guess.

As for some of those old WW II machines, where I worked, we had many WWII machines still in use daily. They would be lucky to get 10-15 years out of the new CNC's.

 

[jspears]

I used a heavy duty fan clutch and had trouble with the belt slipping over 4k rpm. I had a clutch and plastic fan off a 89 ranger with a 2.3L and it bolted up and kept the car cool and doesn't pull enough power to squeal the belt. Even with underdrive pulley and no fan shroud the car stays cool. I think a heavy duty clutch is not necessary because a light duty keeps it cool. (i am running a large radiator though).

 

[Stanglover]

I used a heavy duty fan clutch and had trouble with the belt slipping over 4k rpm. I had a clutch and plastic fan off a 89 ranger with a 2.3L and it bolted up and kept the car cool and doesn't pull enough power to squeal the belt. Even with underdrive pulley and no fan shroud the car stays cool. I think a heavy duty clutch is not necessary because a light duty keeps it cool. (i am running a large radiator though).

That's an interesting point. I'll certainly be aware of pulley slip once I restart the car in Spring.

I've not heard from others about pulley slip and any other issues with this set-up. It would be interesting to know if others have had similar issues. Thanks for bringing that up.

 

[MKSpeedlab]

I used to have pulley slip in my first Fox body Mustang. I was running a flex fan and that thing moved a TON of air. Belt dressing used to be a regular thing with that car to keep the belt from squeeling. 

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

If you get a viscus drive clutch fan no issue. The fan is driven by resistance of liquid silicone inside the clutch fan. Not like a flex fan that is solid. Flex fans will slip belt i doubt a clutch fan will.

 

[Bentworker]

I wanted to give an update on the low profile Hayden 2765 clutch.  Saturday was hot, like triple digit hot.  Coolant stayed right around thermostat temperature which was good.  
 

However I learned something about the clutch.  The Hayden standard clutches (the 2765 is a standard series clutch) transfer some power to the fan when stone cold, then as soon as they warm up the power transfer is practically nothing until the clutch reaches 170 degrees.  
 

Hayden makes different “duties” of clutches that transfer varying anoint of power in the zone between stone cold and 170.   I decided I wanted more air movement and am going to give a 2947 a try which is “heavy duty” low profile.  It will  mean more horsepower loss, but I got plenty to lose.

On Saturday afternoon I had some vapor lock issues with the heat.  I changed my fuel pump to carburetor line mounting system and insulated the fuel line.  No issues at all on Sunday with new setup.  Note to self- it was a dumb idea to make really cool aluminum clamps and bolt the fuel line to the aluminum cylinder heads.  Was basically a fuel heating system.