Sand blasting

[Trevynd]

Got the stang in a shop and a buddy let me use his blaster. Made quick work. Did this in about 40 minutes. Got most of the engine bay and some interior area done. 
also finished hand sanding the roof. Getting there! Some metal work to be done this week. 
first time using a blaster but man it makes quick work!

 

[turtle5353]

Looks good. Need to get a coat of epoxy primer on that thing before it flash rusts. Won’t take long to start surface rusting. 

 

[Trevynd]

Looks good. Need to get a coat of epoxy primer on that thing before it flash rusts. Won’t take long to start surface rusting. 

Yup that’s the plan! Soon as I get it done Itl get sealed and primed! Gotta get some new sheet metal in it ASAP too!

 

[Stanglover]

Make sure to blow all the sand out from all the little nooks and crevices. Sand will hold moisture. Wipe it all down with tack cloths as well.

Looks like a car with good bones though. 

 

[Mac]

A word of caution, sand blasting is also a stress relieving process.  It can warp body panels as most are long stretches of light gage and unsupported.  Had a good friend totally destroy a perfectly good hood by sand blasting.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

The blasting is actually not a stress relieve but it adds stress. Each grain of sand is like a tiny ball peen hammer hitting the metal and expanding it. So as the metal expands on one side it gets oil can in it that is impossible to shrink out. If you take a perfectly flat piece of metal and blast the surface it will curl up. They do have plastic media that does not hammer the steel and removes the paint but will not remove rust. 

Blasting engine bay not a big issue but like stated you will kill a hood, roof, door, quarter or trunk by blasting. Yes the wet blasting keeps the surface cool but you are still hammering the surface and physics cannot be denied. Soda blasting just reduces the size of the hammer. It also comes with having to get the soda residue off the metal or will cause huge paint issues. You will see them put lots of angle on the nozzle when wet blasting to try to not hammer the surface but it still happens to some extent. 

Dip strip is only sure way not to kill your car. It does take all seam sealer, undercoat, paint and rust off. The fable that you will get bleeding from seams is not so. I have a car that I think was done over 10 years ago and no bleeding. When dipped they also phosphate the whole body so you have time to work on it and no rust. 

You should phosphate your car before you primer it. Some use self etching primer but why not do it now and that way no rust. I have had raw steel parts sitting in shop for couple years and no rust. We have a great place in N.C. Carolina Chem Strip. I believe about $2,100 for and entire car. Does have to be stripped of all trim and a shell before going into the ovens and tanks. Here is link. http://chem-strip.com/portfolio/

Hope it goes great for you good to see people working on them.

 

[Trevynd]

Make sure to blow all the sand out from all the little nooks and crevices. Sand will hold moisture. Wipe it all down with tack cloths as well.

Looks like a car with good bones though. 

 Yeah man, you ain’t kidding that sand goes everywhere I feel like it will take longer to clean it up than it did to blast haha! 
I’ll def take my time and get it prepped well

 

[Trevynd]

A word of caution, sand blasting is also a stress relieving process.  It can warp body panels as most are long stretches of light gage and unsupported.  Had a good friend totally destroy a perfectly good hood by sand blasting.

I Absolutely understand this. That’s why I’m only blasting engine bay, interior(supporter areas) and underneath. All of my panels and roof were hand sanded (that’s why the DA is there) 

ive heard horror stories

 

[Trevynd]

The blasting is actually not a stress relieve but it adds stress. Each grain of sand is like a tiny ball peen hammer hitting the metal and expanding it. So as the metal expands on one side it gets oil can in it that is impossible to shrink out. If you take a perfectly flat piece of metal and blast the surface it will curl up. They do have plastic media that does not hammer the steel and removes the paint but will not remove rust. 

Blasting engine bay not a big issue but like stated you will kill a hood, roof, door, quarter or trunk by blasting. Yes the wet blasting keeps the surface cool but you are still hammering the surface and physics cannot be denied. Soda blasting just reduces the size of the hammer. It also comes with having to get the soda residue off the metal or will cause huge paint issues. You will see them put lots of angle on the nozzle when wet blasting to try to not hammer the surface but it still happens to some extent. 

Dip strip is only sure way not to kill your car. It does take all seam sealer, undercoat, paint and rust off. The fable that you will get bleeding from seams is not so. I have a car that I think was done over 10 years ago and no bleeding. When dipped they also phosphate the whole body so you have time to work on it and no rust. 

You should phosphate your car before you primer it. Some use self etching primer but why not do it now and that way no rust. I have had raw steel parts sitting in shop for couple years and no rust. We have a great place in N.C. Carolina Chem Strip. I believe about $2,100 for and entire car. Does have to be stripped of all trim and a shell before going into the ovens and tanks. Here is link. http://chem-strip.com/portfolio/

Hope it goes great for you good to see people working on them.

Thanks for all the tips! As mentioned in another reply all of my panels and roof and anything exterior was al by hand. No blasting there. I’m only doing the blasting in engine bay, underneath and in the interior where there’s some good structure (inside roof is by hand) I’m getting it stripped this way then will clean and get things sealed and primed by the body guy doing some sheetmetal work too. I’ve been working closely with him advising me on how to proceed with things. I’m just doing what I can to help save a buck if it’s simply labor but being sure to be cautious and following direction by those who know what to do. 
and of course with all the wonderful help from people on this forum! Much appreciated guys

 

[Stanglover]

 Yeah man, you ain’t kidding that sand goes everywhere I feel like it will take longer to clean it up than it did to blast haha! 
I’ll def take my time and get it prepped well

A REALLY good shop vac with a crevice tool or other small tool will be a big help I'm thinkin'

 

[detritusmaximus]

Here's a question for you guys...if you use a dry blasting media, what do you do about the insides of rockers and frame rails? That is where the serious problems tend to hide. Bodywork is one thing, but all those years of mud and salt start doing their magic from the inside out.

 

[machattack]

Eastwood makes a product called internal frame coat. I used it on several vehicles. It comes with a conical nozzle so you put the tube in the frame and slowly pull it out as you are spraying. I run it through twice just for comfort. Good stuff. Yes they are proud of it but sure beats replacing frames later on.

 

[Trevynd]

Here's a question for you guys...if you use a dry blasting media, what do you do about the insides of rockers and frame rails? That is where the serious problems tend to hide. Bodywork is one thing, but all those years of mud and salt start doing their magic from the inside out.

I guess it’s just a matter of doing the absolute best you can with what you have available to you and what your budget can afford and what your end goal is. 
 

id love to have a chemical soak and get it perfect but not only is it out of my budget but it’s out of the realm of possibility for me in my area. 
I will get in every place that I can, seal it with the best product I can get and continue on. 
 

this is going to be a driver car so I just need to to be as solid a possible and function and be reliable. But I guess you can never truly get it completely stripped without Chemical or complete dismantle 
 

 

[Trevynd]

Eastwood makes a product called internal frame coat. I used it on several vehicles. It comes with a conical nozzle so you put the tube in the frame and slowly pull it out as you are spraying. I run it through twice just for comfort. Good stuff. Yes they are proud of it but sure beats replacing frames later on.

Definitely a product I’m interested in! I’m sure there should be plenty other products that would be acceptable to help seal things and protect 

 

[cwalker509]

Eastwood makes a product called internal frame coat. I used it on several vehicles. It comes with a conical nozzle so you put the tube in the frame and slowly pull it out as you are spraying. I run it through twice just for comfort. Good stuff. Yes they are proud of it but sure beats replacing frames later on.

I glass bead blasted my entire convertible back in 1995. I used the pressurized blaster from harbor freight. It took a while but the only part that warped was the deck lid. Body shop guy said this week the car looks great and should be no problem. Deck lid only needs a skim coat. I am NOT recommending this for anyone since a lot of others have had problems. I was very careful. I used a marginal compressor which probably helped since the pressure could never get that great. It also took me a LOT longer to do....i.e. days