Well, that sucks!
Awhile back, when I first had my 71 4V motor rebuilt at a reputable shop, the builder decided to install a high volume oil pump. Long story, but the result was it took out the cam and all the main bearings. Before that was diagnosed, I could not get the car to run right, It had a Holley 670 SA on it when I bought it, swapped it out for a custom built 650, then back to a new 670. At the local tuning shop, the Guru drilled the primary plates and what a difference on the idle circuit!. But I still to this day get a lean backfire or a "bog" when I jump on it. Tried pump cam swap and different squirters as well as upping the power valve. To get to the end of this story, the motor was rebuilt again under warranty for the most part, but I lowered the compression to 10:1. Timing is also a BIG part of it and I learned how to rebuild an recurve for optimal timing on MY engine. The only thing I have not tried is a larger 50cc pump, but I am actually trying to decide if I want to swap out for a Quick Fuel HR 735 as I feel it needs a bit more air. Before I do that, I want to get a fuel/air ratio reading, do a cylinder pressure check and go from there. The one thing I do like about the current 670 set-up is I can get really good fuel mileage if I cruise around 60 mph. That will almost certainly drop if I up the cfm and jets with the bigger carb.
No matter what carb you use and as mentioned, you need an intake insulator gasket at least 1/4" thick under the carb. I use a 1" thick fiber plate, but then I have the stock manifold, but with the heat cross-overs blocked off. Still, there's a lot of heat under the carb.
Good luck and keep us posted on the results.
Geoff.