Strong motor mounts?

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83slimer

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Apr 9, 2015
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Nova scotia Canada
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1973 sportsroof mustang
Hi All , I've had no luck with motor mounts, im running a 351c 4v slightly modded I've tore 2 sets of original mounts and also tried the lakewood muscle mounts and they broke also. I'm not sure if I just have too much power lol or if these motor mounts are all junk. Anyone have a high HP motor? what are you using? I was going to try the polyurethane ones next.

I've separated the rubber on all of mine and even bent the bracket on one side where the tabs meet the block. I'm running a c6 with stock gears 3 something?

 
That seems a bit weird! I am running 550-600hp in my 408 Cleveland, with c4 3000 stall converter, shift kit, and 373 gear and still have the first set I put in years ago. I think I got them from Autozone, just basic replacements nothing fancy. My motor mounts are holding up but I have cracked my paint and tore the metal on my shock tower with my new motor.

Is there any slop in the holes not letting them tighten properly?? Are the block bolts too long not letting them tighten down all the way?? Just seems like something may be loose or have excessive play causing additional stresses on the rubber part of the mounts. trans mount good?

 
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I'm in the same boat with my 393 motor, also close to 600 and running standard motor mounts without a problem.

"Hey! It's all ball bearings nowadays. Now you prepare that Fetzer valve with some 3-in-1 oil and some gauze pads. And I'm gonna need 'bout ten quarts of anti-freeze, preferably Prestone. No, no make that Quaker State."

 
Drill a hole vertically through the motor mount brackets and insulator, then install a bolt with large washers on either side. Poor man's solid mount and can't tear apart. You may need to clearance the frame bracket for the bolt head unless you use a flat socket head and countersink it.

 
small length of 5/16 chain from the block to the frame with

a bit of slack in it will take the stress off the mount when

torqing but will not be like a solid mount otherwise.

driver side of course.

Paul

 
Back in my 351 days I used a piece of chain. It worked well.

On my 460 install I used an adjustable turnbuckle. It goes from the front of the drivers side head down to one of the sway bar mounting bolts. I put enough preload on it to stop the shakes at idle and have had no issues with it or mounts.

I got the idea from the FordMuscle guys: http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/04/quicktips/index.shtml

 
I like the polyurethane method ive built custom ones for my jeep cj7 using a body mount bushing and it holds up 400hp no problem, the only thing is I dont have that much room under the cleveland unless i get rid of the perch that is below the mount. I dont really want a chain hanging around my pretty lol engine bay. I'll try the energy suspension engine mounts from summit next, my tranny mount is the energy suspension one already and it seems ok. I have thought that putting an extension on the tranny mount that gives it 2 places to mount to the crossmember to help with the twisting. I'll also check all my bolts and holes on the mount for slack. Thanks guys!

 
When I converted from automatic to a 4-speed I broke two brand new 71-72 style mounts only on the drivers side. After finding the proper 73 mounts for my car it's been fine ever since.

 
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